Capture Colorado 01 TRD Taco - GOAE build

I can't see any pics da fuq

 

Reman w/ AutoZone... Better than me rebuilding the old one, and has a warranty that I can get fulfilled in Moab

These:

TURBO SII 2PCS 7'' Inch Round 51W 5100LM Indensity LED Spot Pods Fog Work Light For Offroad 4WD 4x4 Truck Pickup SUV ATV UTV Auxliary Front Bumper Light Bar Replacement/Roof Driving Headlights

BIG F'ING LIGHTS. 111w, a little more than the ARB lights, and more reasonably priced than the 185w or higher. They're some of the nicer off-brand lights I've purchased, definitely the most bang for the buck on lighting that I've come across. The brackets themselves are impressive. About the same time I replaced the ditch lights with a set of

$110 RUN-D 35W LED Driving Lights 3’’ Flood Off Road Work Light - 1 Pair

these, true flood pattern and extremely useful and very very well made. I had a pair of

MicTuning MT-CHCR20, 20W Long Distance Single Row Cree LED Light Bar Spot Light 10W LED 2500 lm, 4.5" L

these on the ditch brackets originally, they were kind of not exciting.

They're basically all the same pics I shot you when we were texting yesterday, also same on IG.

 

Ah okay cool. I love the round LED ones. I did buy a pair of 185W ones off Iggy. I'd like to compare them against the ARB 32's seeing as they are half the wattage as mine, but I would definitely believe ARBs are similarly as bright despite that. Either way, I think round LEDs look better and throw a lot of light for their size. What type of beams are they? I've got spots that you can swap covers on so there's a diffused cover which reduces distance but does a good job of throwing a wide/short driving beam.

 

When I ordered these I did the 111w because they include the two different covers. I've been super happy with these... I think I might take the second set of covers and get some amber film or paint tint for different conditions. I like that they look different than the average light bar... I'm not sure about your area, but around here the big windshield light bars exist on pretty much every SUV around, and there's tons of folks around here with light bars, so the round lights are kind of a fun way to set the truck apart.

Also there's a rib cage on my roof now, so that's fun.

 

Question: Has anyone seen a first-gen install some air bumps on the front without LT? Kinda curious about exploring that...

 

I'm considering doing it this winter. It will involve cutting off the sway bar mount, building a bump pad, and a custom mount off the frame.

I don't know of anyone on here that has done it.

 

That's exactly what/where I'm thinking, I'd just like to see pictures of someone who has crammed that all in there.

Also considering the Daystar Stinger bumps, since I'm not entirely sure I *need* air bumps, but the tunability appeals to me.

 

Good point. BUT I would rather not replace the rack every year either. What kind of warranty? I'm so sick of steering and pump issues that I am wanting to go OEM as possible.

 

Limited lifetime.

 

Well then you gotta let me know how it works. My rack doctor rack started leaking after a year and I think is what caused my PS pump to go, not long after the reman pump only lasted a year and then the replacement reman pump only lasted a month. Been a pain in the dick of a process.

 

Someone just asked here, and I elaborated on it. We'll see where that gets us.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mtbs-2-0.410188/page-203

Lots of good information in that thread, along with the typical TW misinformation and BS. I'd bet the response that will echo in there is that 'hydros are a waste on stock arms', but we'll see.

 

I tried following the mid travel bs page for a bit... then I gave up because it fills pages faster than the CO BS thread...

 

Thanks for running this down, Brett. I despise the stock hockey pucks, and my attempt at using the super bumps was not encouraging. I'd love to see an alternative that's viable for us 1st Gen guys.

It's probably a lame idea, but an aftermarket LCA that had provision for a hydro bump along with other improvements like a better, safer LBJ (or uniball), but at stock length, would be kinda cool. Probably not cheap, but whatever. I don't pretend to be a LT guru like a lot of those dudes.

FTFY

 

Exactly!

 

Read up here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/stock-width-replacment-lca.392612/

Stock 1sr gen arms aren't prone to failure like 2nd gens, and a lower uniball adapter using the factory spindle would be nearly impossible.

 

I'm sure one of the two of us might end up being the first to do it. Maybe Aaron, too, but I'd imagine we'll have our hands in that

I WANT AFTERMARKET UCAS!!!! Seriously. I had my alignment done yesterday and while it's "correct", the damn uniball UCAs that adjust the caster from the top move the wheel so damn close to the firewall. I rub when turning when I never did on stock UCAs. I was day dreaming the other day about having LCAs made. Can't someone make an LCA that adjusts the caster a little more?!

I'm constantly surprised that LT kits for first gen (except for Solo Motorsports) use LBJs.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/long-travel-bs-thread.109317/page-3131#post-13244505

 

I've seen that posted on here. Interesting design, curious how it will work out.

Regardless of how it works, it doesn't require an aftermarket LCA and still requires the 4 little bolts to attach it to the spindle. Not worth it IMO.

 

That wasn't what you asked about, so it did address your statement

Now if you are saying to get rid of the flawed design of an inverted uni/BJ with the stock spindle, yes, that would be hard.