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Car Audio to Home Sound System...LETS DO IT!!

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by wolfgang123, Dec 5, 2010.

  1. Dec 5, 2010 at 9:56 PM
    #1
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So i have a set off 2 600w (rms) subwoofers that i want to hook up to my wall 120v outlet then to a 3.5mm mp3 style plug. WHY? my plan is to use a 3.5mm headphone jack splitter, then one end to a set of nice wall speakers i already have set up. then the other to a 1400w amp to my 2 subs in their boxes. (all the second part is car audio stuff). So my questions are how to i hook up the power supply and the new audio inputs?

    I have heard of using PSU power sources but my problem is i need 1400 watts and PSU will generally not go over 250 watts. There is also the car battery to charger setup which is just a little to wierd for me. i want something more solid.

    and i dont have an idea for the headphone jack part.

    any input would be great thanks guys!!!
     
  2. Dec 6, 2010 at 2:35 AM
    #2
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 6, 2010 at 2:40 AM
    #3
    yamaha73

    yamaha73 Well-Known Member

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    ok so i was kinda wondering the same thing, but i was going to hook up subs to my kenwood stereo i already have, but yet i you have to convert the power from dc to ac correct or am i wrong?
     
  4. Dec 6, 2010 at 2:43 AM
    #4
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    a wall outlet is AC the car audio systems run on DC thus why you use either a car battery, PSU, or a series of transformers
     
  5. Dec 6, 2010 at 2:46 AM
    #5
    yamaha73

    yamaha73 Well-Known Member

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    yea i knew about the car and house, just didnt know how to change it over, thanks
     
  6. Dec 6, 2010 at 6:18 AM
    #6
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    There is a reason they make different subwoofers for cars, boats and home use. They are all acoustically different. It'll work, but i wouldn't expect it to sound too great compared to something ment for your home stereo
     
  7. Dec 6, 2010 at 6:20 AM
    #7
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    I did something like this 7-8 years ago, but was just trying to get a sub/amp to work with the home stereo. Found out an AC/DC transformer/converter was more expensive than an AC powered amp board. So I bought the amp board, put it into a self-made box and re-used the sub. Still using this setup. Think I'm only running 300W, but that's fine for the single 10" sub that it is driving.
     
  8. Dec 6, 2010 at 6:43 AM
    #8
    VTGrrr

    VTGrrr Well-Known Member

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    drop in k&n for now. Deckplated. Got rid of the intestinal airpipe and baffleys. Replaced with shiny big pipe of more straightness.
    And they make some pretty grunty powersupplies for computers these days.
    Ive got 1000watt one in my rig in the studio..and theres bigger ones..

    It can be done but as earlier poster mentioned...each constructed for different job(car.home.boat.bike etc.)
     
  9. Dec 6, 2010 at 8:02 AM
    #9
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i have it worked out now. i am going to use an RCA converter for the inputs and 2 600w PSU's for POWER!!!
     
  10. Dec 6, 2010 at 8:46 AM
    #10
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    just bought 3 500w PSU's for 60.00 with shipping!!! i already have everything else so i should be set to GO!!
     
  11. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:05 AM
    #11
    Chickenmunga

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    I think you would be better off with home subs as well. Reason being is that when you are creating for a car, you have to limit what you can do due to confined spaces and less than ideal listening conditions. At home, you can expect infinite amounts of room and an area where the sub can be positioned anywhere. With less restrictions, it's easier and less costly to build for the manufacturer, which means you then get more for your money as well.
     
  12. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:17 AM
    #12
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok here is the deal....i am a poor college freshy, me wana have house party so i will take the sub out of truck party one night back in truck...thats why i cant afford the hometheather sub as well as all the other stuff.

    so i was looking into wiring and it seems there are two different styles of doing this.

    http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1528898/how_to_hook_up_a_car_audio_syem_in.html?cat=6

    like that where all the wires are scrapped execpt for ground and yellow 12v power.

    http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

    then there is that style where the power and their ratings are all seperated (more for lab style use it looks like but still) so i was thinking after i seperated all the power wires i could run them all into a larger gauge wire making for more power output? i am no electriction and just need to know which style of wiring this will be more effective.
     
  13. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:29 AM
    #13
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Electricity goes on the weakest link. If you butt splice 14g into 2g, you are going to only be able to get benefit from 14g. Try to push it harder and the 14g wire starts melting and causing electrical fires.
     
  14. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:36 AM
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    Chachie

    Chachie Well-Known Member

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  15. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:45 AM
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    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    I'm going to do some simple math, because I'm pretty simpleminded when it comes to electrical.

    One of his amps is 600W at 12V. So, 600/12 = 50 amp draw.

    Looking at the ratings for that PSU, it's 25 amps on the 12V rails, so no bueno :(
     
  16. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:48 AM
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    CopyTaco

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    You get what you pay for with cheap power supplies.... gl
     
  17. Dec 6, 2010 at 9:55 AM
    #17
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    It's not to say that it's a bad PSU, it's just not supposed to be doing that!

    Even the Antec High Current and TruePower Quattro max out at 38amps.
     
  18. Dec 6, 2010 at 10:07 AM
    #18
    Toph

    Toph Addicted to V8s

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    I wouldn't advise trying to use a computer psu (especially cheap ones) for powering a car sub amp. I had looked into doing this when I was younger and ditched the idea because there isn't a cost-effective way of doing it.

    Those computer power supplies are 500w TOTAL. This means the 12v rails, the 5v, etc. Once you get to the 12v rails you can use, it won't be 500w. Cheap power supplies are often over-rated on their numbers too. Then you have to factor the efficiency of your amps out, so if you have a 1400w amp, you'll need way more than 1400w of 12vdc. You're going to max out your PSUs very quickly and get lots of distortion...every hard hit is going to have the amp falling flat on its face.

    You can save a lot of hassle and just buy a plate amp from parts express. They have a 500w plate for $169 and I guarantee the results will be better than even 6 junk power supplies tethered to a car amp. For the price of one 1500w PSU, which can at best power a 250w amp (25a rail x 12v = 300w, factor out efficiency), you can buy a dayton 1000w rack-mountable sub amp.
     
  19. Dec 6, 2010 at 10:30 AM
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    CopyTaco

    CopyTaco skeeert

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    I am not even referring to the max amps on the 12v rail(s). I am saying that the amount of variance while trying to hold the advertised amperage on the rails under load can be far from what the manufacturer states (especially on POS/cheap PSU's). In turn your other equipment hooked up to the PSU(s) is at risk. Just my 2c.
     
  20. Dec 6, 2010 at 10:50 AM
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    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Exactly the point I was trying to make. The amp board that I referred to was one of these plate amps from Parts Express. Mine wasn't 500W, but it also was less than $169 (at the time).
     
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