Careful ,Changing oil

Something's not right when you need a pipe wrench or an impact for an oil change, let alone both..

 

If I am going to spew/drop oil and need the pan to catch it all, I don't care if it's a couple drops or a gallon. It's going to dump into the pan I have to have under it anyway. So, why both if I have to move the catch can under it and unscrew it anyway, and get dirty no matter what...

Just extra steps, it's gonna suck either way.

 

Would you like to know about the slide hammer used for fuel injectors?

 

^lol

 

The filter cap drain plug was also stupid tight on mine from the factory. I've just been removing the cap directly without draining it first. Doing the same with my 4Runner too, as it has a similar filter cap.

 

I use the Auto Hobby Shop on Dover AFB; $8/hour for stall use.

I'm usually done in 30 minutes but know I have an hour to complete the job.

 

Mine was so tight the entire canister turned,, i just removed the entire canister and have never used the drain plug.

 

That actually happened to me as well on the very first change (no dealer for me). Was very surprised when the whole thing started turning. I was still able to take it off with the cannister out. No issues since then.

 

It's been documented on other threads here on TW that the oil canister, even when properly torqued when your oil is changed, does tighten itself up over time. From memory, the reasons given had to do with heat cycling and it's a real thing, so it's not always the result of being over-torqued by some underpaid gorilla at the dealer, but often that's an issue too.

 

I believe the plastic expands...I hand-tightened it the last oil change before converting to the aluminum and I had some challenges removing it.

The aluminum housing on the other hand, came off a lot easier this last oil change.

 

My issue is am 79 and if there is something i can take apart and it could leak after i put it back together it WILL! LOL

 

Just leave the cap on - oil changes like sex are supposed to be messy.

 

So is this "impact" an impact wrench, impact driver (1/4"), or a drill? The term is sometimes used pretty loosely. And never forget, lefty-loosey/righty-tighty. Unless you're actually using an impact. Then righty-tighty can easily become righty-loosey very quickly..

 

Its a Ridgid 1/4" impact driver.
.....and YES it was in the Leftie Loosey mode
I had to check after reading yer post, LOL

 

I do mine every 5k and torque to these specs as well and never had an issue. I do let everything cool off before changing the oil.

 

You're supposed to change the oil hot, so that any contaminants are held in suspension. Waiting for everything to cool means the contaminants fall to the bottom of the pan and risk staying inside the engine.

 

I don’t change it cold. I wait about twenty minutes after driving home from work. Still plenty hot enough to let everything flow.

 

This changes things then. Most people absolutely bewildered are likely assuming your "impact" use was a 3/8 or 1/2" impact wrench with tons of nut busting torque, not a 1/4" driver. Although it'd still be surprising that even a driver wouldn't be able to budge the oil cap loose. Is this on the OEM plastic oil filter canister or an aftermarket aluminum?

 

Yeah, any newer decent impact driver still makes over 100 ft-lb of tq and should have busted it free I'd think.

 

We have a winner!

Not enough torque to snap it loose. You need a decent 3/8" drill type impact to give it the twist speed, shock (hence the name impact) to loosen the stuck drain cap.


Also guessing you couldnt hold the housing tight enough with the pipe wrench/pliers, causing the tab breaking issue, not the impact itself. Install the housing on the motor, get a GOOD impact driver drill, and it will spin off the drain cap.
Ski