Carrier Bearing… Alternatives and Solutions

Put mine in around 2017 and still going strong!!

 

I’m gonna try to copy the pic above

Installed it facing down. Seems to vibrate throughout all RPM/speed just a little bit more than before.
The angle goes down in the front half, then more level in the back half. I hear you want the opposite.
A driveshaft shop told me that’s also critical for longevity of the bearing to not stress it.

my plan to flip it facing up is to slap on the old carrier bearing with OME spacers and take a rough measurement of how high/low that sits the shaft.

then try to copy that by making spacers. Probably out of longer bolts and sockets. I believe they’re M10x1.25 but need to be longer. Probably easy to obtain from a hardware or home improvement store.

I think sockets might be easier because I don’t know of a clean way to cut metal tube the same length. At least the tools I have I don’t think would.
Not sure if my angle grinder with cutting wheel can be that precise.

maybe if I have an idea of what the spacing distance needs to be, I can go to Lowe’s with a ruler and search the socket drawers of the tool aisle until I find a socket tall enough and buy a pair.
1/2” or 3/8” drive; whichever fits the longer bolt through the center of it.

I wanted to try any random socket I already have as a spacer. But the thing is I don’t have two of the exact same socket (nobody does)

now that I think about it, the above pic spacers look similar to a mid-length socket. Which lowes likely would not carry; they tend to only have short or deep sockets.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know

 

Just put a one piece shaft in. They can be had from the junk yard. There’s literally no reason not to if you’re bearing is whooped.

 

I suggest you draw it out and do a little trig, you’ll find you’re severely mistaken.

 

Here I'll draw it out for you. Break over angle is severely affected.

 

i don’t know what truck you’re using but I’ve never seen the break over angle that far back

 

That angle is above the frame so you’d have to hit that first lol

 

I hit my frame constantly on high break over obstacles, and if the driveshaft was any lower, it would be below the frame and completely destroyed.

I think I'll leave the burden of proof on you. There's no way that a one piece driveshaft has the same clearance as a two piece. Simple math will tell you that.

 

you need to take better lines my friend. I never said it had the same clearance, but it's not enough of a different to cause the issues you are saying. With the way you drive, it sounds like your carrier bearing will be nose diving into a rock. Mine is tucked up and a pointed the pinion at the t-case flange as required for a double cardan. This shaft is from a 4runner, i love recycling and repurposing older toyota parts, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I had to actually cut part of the carrier mount off because the shaft was rubbin. you can see here that the lowest point is the gas tank or frame, in front of that is almost the back door and if you're hitting and getting hung up on that part of your truck, you need bigger tires or better eyes. Here is your burden of proof, I've had a 1 piece shaft for almost 10 years and have never dented it in the area where you say would "hang too low"

 

Experience in my local off-road club shows contact tends to be closer toward the axle:



A one-piece might actually get more practical clearance because the slip joint is moved to the rear (because the double cardan is in the front).

 

The clearance difference at ride height between 1&2 piece isn't a lot, but does exist; However, when you are crawling up a 5' ledge, front and rear locked, with the frame scraping on the corner and the rear suspension is hanging down, the driveshaft will hit the corner of the ledge on a single piece, while a 2 piece won't because the CB is tucked up in the frame.

I'm currently running 37's, but I will be caging and back halfing my truck this winter, and shortening my wheelbase and clearancing for 40's at that time, which I'm excited about to improve break over.

It sounds like you just don't hit as challenging of trails.

Whether it's a big difference or not, the simple fact is that a 2-piece shaft has more clearance than a single piece, which is why your comment that I should do some trig makes no sense, it will just prove my point.

I have a 2 piece with the slip in the back and double cardan after the carrier bearing. Clearance at the diff doesn't really change regardless of 1 or 2 piece driveshaft other than the difference that a slip joint makes. Other than that though, not much you can do about it. I find I mostly hit the driveshaft around half way down from the CB, near the gas tank, and this area would be lower on a 1 piece vs a 2 piece.

 

perhaps at droop yes if you have enough of it, could make more of the difference. I don’t believe the difference is astronomical. I’d like to see some real world math/measurements before I would be sold on it. You’re probably right on the trails, my truck hasn’t seen any dirt except the stuff in my garage in a few years. I was tired of hearing that carrier rattling around, with the droop I have and the strain it goes through with dual cases I’m sure it’s at about the limit for the stock 2 piece.

 

what drive shafts are you referring to?

 

ive got a pile of them now, use a front from 1st gen 4runner or a rear front 3rd gen 4runner. Just need to weld an extension in and drill out the pinion flange.

 

With dual cases, already your drive shaft is so much shorter than stock that a single piece won't make nearly the dent in clearance that it would on a stock tcase.

If I had dual cases and a shorter wheel base, single piece would be the way to go for sure.

Check out this video I did a few weeks ago for a good example. Check out at 1.27 and at 8.02 specifically

 

I started going through your build to see if you had more info on it.

 

Yes with the DCLB, I can see that being further issue. My DS total length is 60" at rest and most of the time if I get in the rocks, it's down by the differential pinion.

Not specifically, you can just drill the pinion flange yourself or buy a double drilled flange. This was my old setup prior to switching, you can see the little mini section between the CB was shortened, and it was causing alot of vibration and accelerated wear on the bearing.

 

I go through CB like crazy. I was looking into options...

 

the prices on ebay seem a bit high to me, but these are what you're after. 1998-2001 4x4 (A/T or M/T) rear driveshaft from a 4runner. Everyone talks up Tom Woody but I built mine for less than half the cost of what he charges.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203948372704?fits=Year%3A2001%7CModel%3A4Runner

Here's the double drilled flange, the yoke bolts up perfectly. to the other end of the taco/FJ transfer case without issue.

 

I went with a Tom woods front when I did my sas. I just have trouble with the price of the 1 piece rear...