Carrier Bearing Constantly Goes out

Hey everyone,
I have a 2010 taco, TRD Off road. I have a 2 inch in the front from toytec coilovers, with total chaos upper control arms. In the rear I have the All Pro expedition leaf springs adding 3 inches. I am starting a few projects on it that are overdue, but the one I would like to discuss today is the driveshaft and carrier bearing. My current one is blown out, this will be the 3rd bearing I have replaced in the 100k miles of ownership. I have changed the U joints, rechecked my pinion angle, etc. I am aware there is a recall on those drive shaft, I have battled with Toyota about them replacing it, but they wont do anything because of the modifications to the vehicle. I am at the point where I am considering replacing the whole driveshaft to correct the possibility of any misalignment. That would also give me new U joints and new carrier bearing. Essentially allowing me to have a fresh start. I know there's a thread somewhere about this I am sure, but I have not been able to locate one. Does anyone have any advise on the issue I am facing here? Thank you for any help in advance.

 

One piece from Tom Woods and be done with it. Good luck with your truck.

 

Did you try to shim down the CB? It might help in your situation. There are also stiffer aftermarket replacement options, such as a poly bushing from IEDLS. It’s for a Ranger but can be fitted with nothing but a drill and angle grinder.

 

Sucks, sorry to hear about this. How is the condition "blown out" being determined? Is that you or a toyota tech? Based upon what specs? visual? just trying to understand. I know there are numerous threads of folks chasing down vibes, but these come in any number of flavors throughout the driveline and just curious how yours is isolated to the carrier bearing?

 

And I know you checked pinion angle you say but how? The important part is that the flange is parallel to the xfer case one, not just pointing at it

 

After looking into this I think this is a great idea. Will save me the time messing with all of the angles and wont have to deal with it in the future. Thank you for the advice!

 

The condition was by visual observation. The rubber seal is worn and torn, and the driveshaft has complete freedom on movement inside of the bearing itself. I wasn't necessarily thinking it was related to the carrier bearing, I just know I have an issue because of the frequency at which I am replacing the bearing itself. The alignment of the pinion angle was judged visually by myself and reexamined at an auto shop when I had brought it up to them.
I think the idea of the 1 piece drive shaft mentioned above is a great idea and something I will probably be doing in the near future.

 

A few good points above.

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fwd/backward placement of the CB. If that is not set correctly then it will tear itself apart in short order. Thats why theres such large slots in the CB so it can be installed in a 'neutral' position front to back wise, and not add undue stress to the rubber.

 

Are you using the OE Spicer bearing?

 

Yes sir

 

X2 for a 1 piece Tom Woods. Eliminate the problem

 

What is the part number of the Spicer Bearing you have been using?

 

Thats actually a good point as well. There are two different versions for these trucks

 

You've made the right decision. Wish I got mine sooner. It's paid for itself by now.

 

I am wondering if you have ever looked at the slip yoke ?
That slip yoke is responsible for plunging as your suspension soaks up the bumps .
If the slip yoke doesnt plunge from being all seized up , the rubber in the center bearing takes some serious punishment