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Carrier Bearing Drop Kit or Axle Shims or both...

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by wilsonpj, Aug 30, 2010.

  1. Oct 8, 2017 at 5:38 AM
    #21
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    I took the carrier bearing drop spacers off. I think they’re more for 2-4 inch lifts. If anyone wants them I’ll be glad to mail them to you if you’ll pay the shipping. I have $25 in them.

    Don’t remember who said it but smaller square shims is all I needed and it seemed to make it much smoother.
     
  2. Oct 8, 2017 at 6:10 AM
    #22
    Toyoland66

    Toyoland66 Well-Known Member

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    U-joints are supposed to be parallel, you shouldn't rotate the pinion up unless you have a Double cardan driveshaft.
     
    jberry813 likes this.
  3. Oct 8, 2017 at 7:11 AM
    #23
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I don’t understand this. I don’t fixed the issue.
     
  4. Oct 8, 2017 at 11:22 AM
    #24
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    CB drop kit made mine worse. I put some washers on it a total of about 1/8”
    Drop on the carrier bearing. Seemed to help the most.
     
  5. Oct 8, 2017 at 4:01 PM
    #25
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    I miss spoke. I didn’t actually put shims. I used smaller thinner carrier bearing spacers.
     
  6. Oct 8, 2017 at 4:15 PM
    #26
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    What I used is about 1/8”. I think it may need to be a smidge bigger or smaller and it’ll be just right.
     
  7. Oct 8, 2017 at 4:22 PM
    #27
    Radarninja

    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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  8. Oct 8, 2017 at 4:30 PM
    #28
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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  9. Oct 8, 2017 at 4:35 PM
    #29
    Radarninja

    Radarninja Safety 3rd

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    Sorry thats all i got. Lol
     
    Island Cruiser likes this.
  10. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:01 AM
    #30
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    First half of shafts needs to be parallel to transfer case; no carrier drop.
    Equalize middle and pinion working angles.
     
  11. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:14 AM
    #31
    EasyLivin

    EasyLivin Well-Known Member

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    These posts are always silly. Every truck is different. When lifting with a Add-a-leaf, you will almost surely need shims to maintain the proper angle of the rear axle to the driveshaft. There is not one cure all carrier bearing kit. The best way to do it is to go to your nearest Fastenal or other speciality fastener place and get extended carrier bearing bolts and use some washers and try out different configurations until you get one that works. If you look at a stock truck, the half shaft is not parallel to the transfer case. It is why there are yolks on driveshafts. The reason the vibration exists is because the two halves of the shaft are out of alignment.

    The best way to do this is 1.) Shim the back if you have Add-A-Leafs; blocks are tapered for this. Good swag math is 1 degree per inch of lift. 2.) Go to Harbor Freight and get a magnetic angle measuring device or use your Iphone and measure the angle on each half of the driveshaft as you add washers. When the angle on the two shafts is the same, voila!. Your truck will drive as good as it will! (And yes I know because I did this whole process because I was annoyed by the vibration too.)
     
    rollin904 likes this.
  12. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:50 AM
    #32
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    I went to fastenal and it seemed like the only square washer they had was as thick as the carrier bearing drop spacers that I already had. I didn’t buy them. That’s all they had but said they could order others. I’m hoping to get the angle thing figured out. What’s the optimal angle?
     
  13. Oct 9, 2017 at 12:51 PM
    #33
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    Using my phone app it is bouncing between 84 and 85° on the back section and 82 to 83 on the front section. I have about 1/8 of an inch spacer on the carrier bearing.
     
  14. Oct 9, 2017 at 12:59 PM
    #34
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    Very slight shudder at slow take offs. Minimal to no shudder when giving it a little gas but not Flooring it.
     
  15. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:06 PM
    #35
    ShuggieTaco

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    Is this something that I should just get used to feeling or is it something to cause concern for potential damage to the driveshaft? Or does anyone believe that there is a way that this shudder can be completely gone?
     
  16. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:07 PM
    #36
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    Also does anyone believe that what I’m describing could be axle wrap from the U-boats not being torque properly?
     
  17. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:46 PM
    #37
    EasyLivin

    EasyLivin Well-Known Member

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    Get washers from Loews or Home Depot. Get the bolts from Fastenal. I can't remember the thread but if you just take one off in the parking lot they can size it and give you an extended bolt.
     
  18. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:48 PM
    #38
    EasyLivin

    EasyLivin Well-Known Member

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    Shudder will probably never leave. Mine comes and goes in various stages but I have it as removed as possible. You could try a one piece driveshaft or I saw some post where some guy used like a carrier bearing from a Ford 3/4 ton or something and it seemed to cure his issues........
     
  19. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:49 PM
    #39
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    What are your working angles?



    It can not be totally eliminated with the stock design. It can be minimized; sometimes to the point it's unnoticeable.
    Middle and rear u-oints cancel each other.
    There is no companion u-joint to cancel the front; that's why the front half of the driveshaft needs to be in line with the transmission/transfer case. 1 degree off is preferable as it allows the needles to spin.
     
    Xrs-fsho, sarnjsaechao and drr like this.
  20. Oct 9, 2017 at 3:03 PM
    #40
    ShuggieTaco

    ShuggieTaco Well-Known Member

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    I got a small washer about 1/16 thick. It seems to have minimized the shudder the most.
     

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