Casper's DIY Paint Repair

I appreciate this kind of input. Painters, like any other profession pretty much, have their own way of doing things. Other paint and body people may read this and readily state they'd have done this or that differently. I'm in no way some kind of custom painter or anything and, well for those of you who know me, have never claimed to be any kind of an expert. My background is more on the industrial side of the occupation, however the principals are still the same. It is, although, statements like this that allow me to explain a little more why I did it how I did it and can also open the discussion for other painters to chime in, hopefully constructively, and offer other options so we may all bennifit.

 

I apologize if I come off as offensive, although Im sure it sounded that way. I was under the impression after hanging out with you that you were paid as a profession at one time to be a painter...considering your criticisms on my ride for instance I would take it that you have been painting for quite a while.

 

Your correct. Normally I wouldn't use aerosols as it's just not what I'm used to. My thinking was to do this just for this instance and a quick repair that others might bennifit from. I figured I'd try it and if I achieved a good result I'd post it up. If not I'd remove the flare, wet sand it, and break out the gun. I was suprised at how well the Duplicolor clear sprayed and just how flat it layed. so far so good. If it would have looked like ass no one would have ever seen this write up.

 

Fair enough, nothing wrong with experimenting on stuff.

 

Almost 30 years. I've just never worked in a production shop it's all been fleet repairs and large equipment. I tried to keep any criticisms of the paint work on your truck to myself for as a whole it's really good. Painters are human and we all make mistakes, God knows I've made my share, hell I've had vehicles I've painted where I had to go back and wet sand and buff the whole vehicle because I got too much orange peel in the finish. There are people out there who are really good I'm probably just average. Most people don't understand that even in a paint booth with all the lighting sometimes it's hard to see. Missing an edge or getting an area of dry spray or even a run isn't hard to do.

 

Yea man that is sort of what I was talking about...30 years is a good amount more than even I thought when it comes to painting. I don't mind criticisms as I can always appreciate the real world view on things. The paint on my ride is applied to what I would expect from a solid painter and appreciate the quality of the execution, but glass is still glass which isn't always so friendly depending on the mold it is created from.

 

I work with glass all the time and if you ever break or tear it let me know it's usually a pretty easy fix. Fiberglass, other than being really itchy, is great to work with and you can make all kinds of stuff with it. It's strong, lighter, somewhat flexible, and the paint prep process between it and steel is pretty much the same. Any time your applying a new panel whether it's steel or glass it needs to be gone over and inspected for any defects and if needed the appropriate corrections made. Just like a steel fender can be dented in the shipping process so can there be small defects with glass either through shipping or even in the maufacturing process.

 

Its not so much the defects on the glass although it is easy to have with shipping, but getting the paint to stay in a truck app. They tend to chip up a lot, but my fenders also vibrate quite a bit which Im sure doesn't help the paint. I had similar issues on my first gen that was glassed up as well. Im sure for a sports car where the road is somewhat gentle on glass it isn't that bad, but with extended tires and debris flying around a lot, it can be a different environment.

 

Your correct and it's hard to be able to add good bracing as it would conflict with tire clearances or other things. The paint shouldn't chip any easier on glass than it does on steel. The diffeerence usually is that what would dent steel can chip the glass. Now you've added fenders that protrude further out from the side of the vehicle and, I haven't really looked so correct me if I'm wrong, arent as supported by the inner fenders as stock was so they aren't held as securely. Your also in an environment where your running down trails with over hanging limbs and brush which make contact with you fenders more so than they may in a stock circumstance. As you have tought me about this set up its more for out west kinda dessert running where you don't have these obsticals. The part I admire is that you have stuck to your guns, understanding the risks you were taking, and built the truck you want. And a damn nice one at that. Anytime you try to do something different or custom you have complications or have to make allowances somewhere. That's kinda the nature of the beast you should se what all I had to go through building the car.

 

Exactly as you stated, the reinforcement and such just isn't really available with what the intention of the fenders are. That being said, its also the hood as well. Mine is a special case with the current ride as it doesn't have the factory cross member designed into it and has some cracking on the edges due to road vibs that you could argue to a degree is faulty design. That being said, I had similar cracking on my old glass works hood that was built around a factory metal foundation and utilized the stock assemblies completely on my first gen. I think with trucks and the application, it just comes with the territory as the issues with my current truck don't bother me as Im used to the game by now. The scratches on the fenders only leave trail marks, but the chipping is strictly from glass likely not having the best surface to work with to begin with. Everyone that I have taken glass to between Hampton roads and up here (4 shops total) don't like glass, but can work on it. It seems to me from a painters perspective that glass just isn't as consistent of a reliable material to paint as say your standard steel. That being said, with steel weighing more, also reduces the vibs as well. Its not a perfect set up, but one I embraced long ago.

Yea, your Camaro def sounds like its own beast with things.

 

Here are some shots now 4 days later in the sun and you can judge for yourselves. I only wanted to do this to help somebody nobody saying this is the best way to do it. You all can make your own minds up on that.

 

Would be cool if you could get a shot of the clear from an angle. I assume the white was the color matched duplicolor can right?

 

yes it was the 040 super white duplicolor color match

 

here hope this helps white is not the best back drop for a visual comparison through pictures it's just as slick as factory " to me"

 

Thanks for the photo...will have to check it out in person next time.

 

James looked at it this weekend and had to ask where the repair was. To me that's not bad for a DIY, in your garage, aerosol repair

 

Yea it filled it in well, just curious about the clear coat as to me I cant see it in the front of the flare, but with it being white sometimes its hard to see a clear coat at all.

 

That would be the trick it matches the other flares in texture and finish. Remember, I never said this was the best repair, merely a stisfactory repair someone could attempt at home. For the best repair the flare should be removed and taken to a good body shop, if you could find one that was not so bogged down with insurance work that they were willing to do it.

 

So question about glass - wouldn't bed liner be a good option? Tougher, more chip resistant etc, more weight less vibes and so on...
?

 

That is a valid question. We spray Hippo liner all the time and will readily use it on rocker panels, lower fenders and anywhere we need good chip resistence. I can say though Idk if I've ever sprayed it on fiberglass. I can't help but believe if you at least used it on the inside of the fender it would have to help, especially sprayed with a splatter gun instead of like commercial Linex where it's sprayed really hot. Cool thing is you vould get the tintable and mix some base in with it, we use it with out the UV ihibitors, and you have color matched bedliner