Caster and Camber

If you lose the spacer, you will likely rub the UCA...worth a shot though.

 

My magic 8 ball says maybe. You will probably still have to do a CMC but it will be realistic.

 

Your easiest option will be to do the CMC. Unless you want to get new wheels with a 0 offset.

 

Copied from and 4wparts.com

"Offset and backspacing are two different ways of essentially measuring the same thing: the amount the wheel sticks out from its mounting location. Backspacing is the more commonly used term and is the measurement from the inside edge (when mounted) of the wheel to the mounting face. The less backspacing, the further the wheel sticks out, and vice versa.

Offset is the distance from the exact center of the wheel to its mounting face. A lower offset wheel will move the wheel outward from the vehicle’s hub. The opposite is true for a higher offset wheel.

While it might seem like a trivial measurement, it is important. Many suspension companies recommend a specific backspacing that works with their lift kits. Not following that advice can lead to tires that heavily rub in certain situations, and a reduced turning radius."

Just to clarify

NEW RIMS

17' x 9.5 with +30mm offset with 1.5" spacers (or is it 1.25" as you've stated before?)

0 offset (center of the rim) = 4.75" (9.5/2) =4.75 back space or 0 offset

4.75 +30mm (30mm=1.2") = 4.75" + 1.2" = 5.95" or 6" (back spacing) rounded off for your new Rhino rims. Now lets add a spacer

6" BS - 1.5" (adding spacers decreases offset) = 4.5" BS = -.25" offset (4.75" is 0 offset 4.5" is .25 LESS than 0 offset) = -6mm offset (25." = 6mm)



Given this data, removing the spacers moves you FURTHER away from stock BS of 5.5". I think your issue is your new UCAs.
I very recently added new UCAs along with new springs and I rubbed with the same rims and tires I had before. (SCS BR6 17" x 8.5 4.3" BS -12 OS) This was with the getting over 4* caster. We don't know how much caster is built into your new UCAs. (assume at least 2*) Get as much caster as you can possibly get with the LCA cams (turn the rear cams outward all the way and adjust the front ones until camber just hits zero or a hair positive.

Furthermore, not all tires are created equal. If I remember correctly, the tread cross-section on the Falkens is on the wider side. You can rub a little bit and it sounds like your ripping you wheel well out (and you are).

Or just chop away. It's your truck.

Ok all you geniuses out there can double check my math lol

 

I know nothing of this subject, but what is the end game here, looks? Seems like a lot of headache just to change the look of your car .

Enjoy the truck

 

This is how I enjoy my vehicles buy molding them and adding my own persona to them to make them one of a kind and not one in a million.

 

Sounds like it is time to mold your cab mount to match said persona.

 

Yeah have an appointment set for Thursday to get it done ‍♂️ is what it is

 

Good luck, I still think your going to rub, have problems after cmc.

 

At least if it rubs after it won't be on metal‍♂️

 

17x8.5" Icon wheels with 4.75" BS running 285/70R17 General Grabber X3 Tires on a 2" lift with SPC UCA set at "F" with 2.5* Caster. No rubbing while off-roading.
17x9 Procomp Wheels 4.75" BS running 285/70R17 NITTO Ridge Grapplers on the same 2" lift with theSPC UCA's set at "F" 2.5* Caster. No rubbing while off-roading.


Installed 1.25" Wheel spacers and now I'm rubbing on the cab mounts while turning and hitting bumps. (I like the look of the tires sticking out about a inch) But when hunting season starts again in November, the Spacers need to be removed.

33" Tires can be done but you need to do it correctly. Everything you add needs to be accounted for. No 2 truck will be the same!

 

Try setting to G. Then maxing out LCAs. I cleared 305s on stock 16" wheels with 1.25" spacer on G. Rubbed on F.

 

Your speaking Spanish to me

 

Sorry. That was for Toku.

 

I think if I was running stock wheels then it might clear. For the most part the rubbing with the spacers is really minor. (more annoying) My LCA cams are maxed out already on Setting "F". so the tires are as forward as I can get them.
If I go to "G" then it would just lower my Caster. (Which might help a bit but not significantly)

 

You should do some research then before buying random stuff and then wondering why it doesnt work..

A CMC doesnt remove the cab mount it just trims it. You can still rub it with the wrong setup.

 

So where mine. But going to G was just a bit more I needed. Castor definitely was lost. Could only get 2* caster. But drove just fine.