Caster, why so much confusion?

What are your SPC set at?

 

I'll be interested to see what my before numbers are. The truck drove great on the way to the shop.
Good news is that the guy asked how much I lifted the truck and if I had spc uppers.

It's the only alignment shop within 100 miles. They are known to be good.
I'm killing time now.

 

Dude sounds like he should be good if he knows bout SPC arms.

 

All done with the alignment.
The steering actually feels lighter than it did on the way there, so the three degrees caster does not make for a heavy feel.
Unfortunately it looks like a lot of my caster came from the upper control arm being moved into position C.
Not a huge deal or anything, but I might need to tweak on it some more when I go to fit 33s or bigger.
He spent a good hour and a half working on it.
It drives real nice.

 

This is why when you request the "out of spec" caster, you need to tell them to max the lowers (or you do that before taking it in and then tell them not to touch it) then adjust with the uppers. You'll get that clearance you need for larger tires (I run 33s with no CMC/Cab mount relocate and have zero rubbing) and it will keep you in the "D" or "E" slot on thew SPCs usually. Each truck seems to be slightly different but that's been my experience. At least your shop knew what SPC arms were. I'm at 4* with my SPCs at "D" with 33s and it drives fantastic down the road.

 

Are you a alignment tech?

 

I tried to get that point across, pointing out my desire to make room in the rear of the wheel well.
I hate to micro manage a tradesman.
This alignment will be good for a while.
Maybe I'll use the same shop when I buy bigger tires and drive home the point a little harder.
It was 125.00 for the alignment. Tipped a 20 pack of michelob ultra ( liquor store across the street knew the brand).
For now we have a truck that handles great and fits my 32s just fine

 

If you are relying on a tire shop "tech" to set your off road truck up for ideal alignment it might be worth your time to do a bit of research on how IFS suspensions work so you can see how that might be a bad idea.

At ride height I would run -0.5* camber, -4* caster (both side equal) , and -1/16" toe in. If you are not sure why that is you should try and get out on trails more and use your truck like it was intended. Even on road this will handle better and be safer. The only downside is reduced fuel economy and you will wear tires faster, which is no issue if you are not a cheap ass penny pinching beta.


edit* here in socal we have access to dedicated "off road & prerunner" alignment shops so you don't have to explain your situation to some halfwit what the score is.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/alignment-in-san-diego.75879/

 

this thread literally answers its own question.

 

Do you really mean negative for those numbers?

 

Camber ——

Caster +++

 

Lol
It sure does.
I did still get what I thought was fact confirmed. Some really helpful guys here, and others that are full of themselves.

 

I am not but have played around enough with MY truck and alignments at home to know how it behaves and what I feel is best for my driving style. Alignment is really situation specific and what the end user is ok with... Like stated really the only thing that's going to eat tires is excessive toe in or toe out so as long as that is in spec the rest is just how the truck is going to behave.

 

Is this okay? They said it was fine? .5* castor

 

NO! Outside of the specified range. But even the 1.43 degrees that is the bottom of the range is way low unless all you did was drive around in parking lots. Show them the statement at the bottom of the sheet, the sheet that they gave you. Get your money back and go elsewhere. Have you tried Les Schwab in Mosses Lake? Looks like there are two of them. Les Schwab has their own school for alignment techs.

 

I think it was better before they messed with it.
That negative castor on the left side is a pretty big deal. How did it drive?

 

Like 01 said NO! I'm guessing you are getting a post lift alignment? That may be as good as they can get, but you probably have your hands full when on the highway. I'm guessing you can't take your hands off the wheel. With that low of caster, you are probably sawing left and right on steering wheel to get it to track straight. Probably time for new UCAs. If you are stock, whole different story. Go back and scream.

 

Red means bad. Green means good.

That is the worst caster alignment I’ve ever seen. It’s NEGATIVE 0.5 degrees on the one side. I didn’t think that was even possible. Have you done any modifications? Is something bent?

 

That’s where I got it done an Moses Lake, less Schwab I think I just need to move my coil overs down?

 

Perhaps they are not what they used to be. Another option Heavy & Light Duty Truck Repair Services - Bee-Line Frame & Axle (beelineml.com) Perhaps you could share what your build is in detail.