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CB feedback

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 650H1, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. Dec 4, 2012 at 7:47 PM
    #1
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    who gets feedback on their CB's when using electrical things in the truck unless you turn the squelch up quite a bit??? whenever I put my windows down, or use windshield washer fluid, the CB squeals like a MF. I grounded it directly to the battery... but am getting power from the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel. I don't want to power it from the battery because I was it to come on and go off with the truck, although it looks like that's what is fucking it up... anyone have any advice??
     
  2. Dec 4, 2012 at 9:13 PM
    #2
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ttt this is pissing me off
     
  3. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:19 PM
    #3
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    bump... no one else has feedback on their CB's? wow, id like to know what you all are doing to not have any??
     
  4. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:24 PM
    #4
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    grounded right to the battery, hooked power wire up to battery and an assortment of different fuses, all the same :notsure:
     
  5. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:24 PM
    #5
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    right now, getting power for ignition 1 fuse from the fusel pane to the left of the steering wheel.
     
  6. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:31 PM
    #6
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I tried running it right to the battery and it was still the same... I get like static and squeeling when using the windshield washer fluid and windows... I have the firestik 2 2' antenna... haven't tuned it but not sure it would help if im getting noise from the power in...

    it goes away if I turn squelch up to like halfway... but I feel like that's not right.
     
  7. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:36 PM
    #7
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yea tried it to solid metal under the dash by e brake pedal.. no luck. fuck.
     
  8. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:38 PM
    #8
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just used speaker wire. you think that makes a difference? could it be coming from the coax cable?
     
  9. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:39 PM
    #9
    95 taco

    95 taco Redneck rich

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    speaker wire as in audio speaker wire?
    i think that's way to light
     
  10. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:42 PM
    #10
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    just tried unplugging the coax cable and seeing if it did it, to which it did not. so... the noise is not coming from the power-in but the fucking coax cable. how would you fix that?
     
  11. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:45 PM
    #11
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    this one is brand new... I just bought it like a week ago when I put the cb in... from radioshack.
     
  12. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:48 PM
    #12
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    do I need to ground the antenna?
     
  13. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:49 PM
    #13
    95 taco

    95 taco Redneck rich

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    yep, (i think)
     
  14. Dec 4, 2012 at 10:54 PM
    #14
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    well here is some more info. I don't have a washer between the antenna stud, and the mount, so its all touching... I have read you cant have that. do I need to get a nylon washer to put between the two and then ground the mount?
     
  15. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:03 PM
    #15
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    You have a grounding problem.
    The coax shield grounds to the truck. It needs to be able to see the same ground from the radio.
    If you are running the power negative direct to the battery, the radio is effectively floating.
    Try running your power negative to a ground instead of the battery. This will allow the radio and the coax shield to be on the same circuit, which they need to do in order to 1) not squeal and 2) have an acceptable SWR and 3) work.
    Also, keep your coax away from sources of interference. Also DO NOT coil the excess, DO NOT allow it to run parallel to itself, and if it has to cross itself do it so that it's as close to 90* as possible.

    If this doesn't solve your problem, then you have an internal radio problem, likely a capacitor. Take it to a radio shop and have them give it a look-over.
    While you're there, ask them to Peak & Tune it.

    Also, you don't need larger than 16-AWG if you are running a stock radio. If you have had it worked on and added Moar Power, then you might consider 14-AWG.
    I have a heavily modified Cobra 29 that I've been using for years. I still have the stock 16-AWG power cable, and it's doing fine. Been fine for over 1.5M miles (yes- million).
    Now my 400-watt linear amp is another story. 8-AWG power cable there.

    One last tip: Keep your coax cables in lengths divisible by three feet (3', 6', 9', 12', 18'). Ideally you'll run an 18-foot cable; if you have to add components, use 3-foot cables instead of 1-foot cables.
     
  16. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:08 PM
    #16
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Oh, good lord:facepalm::frusty::boom::goingcrazy::facepalm: YES!!!!!!!
    You are effectively shorting out the ground and the signal! It'll be a wonder if you haven't fried something internally by now.

    My response below was assuming it was hooked up even remotely properly. So much for assumptions:rolleyes:
     
  17. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:12 PM
    #17
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    Okay, here's the PROPER way the antenna should be installed, going from the top (antenna) down (to the coax):

    Antenna
    Nylon washer
    Mounting bracket
    Antenna mount with coax threads
    Coax

    The idea is to ground the coax shield at the mount, but isolate the coax signal and antenna so that the end of its path is the tip of the antenna.
    Right now you have the signal feeding back into the ground. Causing......

    ......

    ......

    wait for it

    ......

    ......

    FEEDBACK!
     
  18. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:18 PM
    #18
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    This is absolutely perfect.
    I would add a robust toothed washer between the mount and the coax connector threads (the only part of the pic that can't be seen). This ensures a good ground even in salt spray and road grime, as well as reduces the possibility of the connector loosening up.

     
  19. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:27 PM
    #19
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok so i fucked it all up, big surprise.. i have no idea wtf i am doing.


    i have a 2' firestik antenna...
    i have a uniden pro510XL - pretty fucking basic...


    i have like 21 ft of coax... they didnt have an 18' when i was there
    and it is all coiled/clumped/mashed under the plastic door sill protector.. not a huge deal as im just going to use it on the trails...

    my BIG problem, is the whole mount situation. nothing came with plastic washers, WTF??

    so if i get this right, i need to:

    antenna
    antenna stud
    PLASTIC WASHER
    mount
    PLASTIC WASHER
    other end of stud where coax connects...
    coax cable

    correct?

    i want to isolate the antenna/antenna stud from the mount using plastic washers so the end of my coax is actually at the tip of the antenna like you said?
     
  20. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:28 PM
    #20
    650H1

    650H1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    in this picture, though you cant see it, there is actually another plastic washer between the bottom of the antenna stud and the mount correct? otherwise the top plastic washer makes no sense as its not isolating anything..
     
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