cbechtold's Long Travel IFS Crawler Tacoma Build and BS Thread

yeah fair enough. can't blame you there.

But..buy once cry once haha

 

This is my plan. Converting to switch pro is pricy but is the right move.

 

ill have to confirm and double-confirm that. there are lesser brands but the switch pro is solid.

 

I will still stick to my first point. Having high amp lines going into the cab is a no no. I’d highly suggest rethinking it Cory.

 

Did you get your cc & horn to work with your aftermarket steering wheel?

 

I don't think it's problematic at all provided there is some sort of over current protection close to the power source (battery). It's common in motorsport to run the power system into the driver cabin area. I'm putting both batteries in the cab even, screw having that weight on the fender and core support.

 

As long as over current protection is close to the power source it should be good. The photo he has looks like there’s 4’-5’ from the battery to the breaker though.

 

I don't see issues with it if it's properly fused/relayed. Think of all the high current amplifiers that crazy people run in car stereo's.

 

I totally understand where you're coming from, but in the research I've done and people I've talked too, it shouldn't be a problem. The guys at TT Motorsports are who I saw do this first and they've had no issues with it ove the last couple years with their setup.

Yes. I got the airbag light fix this past weekend as well. No more airbag light and cruise control still works perfectly.

It's definitely a long run, but I planned the wire and breaker around that. 100amp breaker and 4 gauge wire is rated for 150amps over 8' of distance, so I'm good there. I'd need to measure the exact distance again, but it was towards 7' if I recall correctly.

Yeah, I've made everything a little overkill. 40amp rated relays and I'll be upsizing wires for all accessories.

Speaking of all those crazy car stereo setups, I've always wondered how many amps people are running through those system.

 

When I was in High school. A lot.

PLUS they were A/B type amps, so not super efficient and pulled a shit load of power. I had a 4000w amp I think for my subs alone and i ran 0/1 gauge wire into the cab. It had a 400amp fuse no joke.

With Class D amps that are mainly what people use these days, much more efficient so raw power pulls aren't quite as crazy. But some of those people still run 2-10+amps depending on what they are doing.

 

Got a write up and picture diagram?

 

Well damn. That's a lot more than I was thinking lol

Depending on what time I get home, I should be working on that after work today.

 

I think the point Dan is making is getting missed. The breaker is at the fuse panel and over 7 feet of high amp power going to the panel. That is 7 feet from the battery to the breaker that is now at risk of chafing from vibrations/getting cut along the way and completely unprotected from shorting itself on the body of the truck regardless of whatever sheathing is put on it.

 

Curious, what made you switch from a bussman to a switch pro?

I setup a 10 relay /40 fuse bussman in the truck years ago and its been working fine. I bought the case to make the smaller 5 relay/20 fuse unit but haven't touched it yet. I overestimated what I needed when I first built it years ago. I have considered going to a switch pro but like its been mentioned, thats some $$$ and I already have the parts I need for the bussman setup. Curious if there are any advantages I'm not seeing making the switch to a switch pro now.

 

with a switchpro you can do some cool stuff like strobe lights. I think you can also control it from your phone and do different trigger patterns. So map one button to turn on all of your lights with one press. Stuff like that

 

ah, didnt realize the newer ones do all those extra features. I was just thinking it was still a dumb off/on device like my bussman.

 

Well I didn't replace it. Not yet. I put one in my other truck. I have 3 ha


But main reason for me was it has trigger functions. So untapped my high beams to one of the trigger wires. Then tell the switch pro to turn on any one of the 8 circuits with my high beams. This function is can be turned on and off.

Next was built in strobing. I have it in my dd and can make my DD C2 fog lights strobe when it's a blizzard or I'm behind a plow if visibility on the roads is shit. Plus had hopped to add rear firing ambers for the same reason. Some of the shit I drive through in winter is terrible. So being able to strobe is nice.

Now all of that is possible with a bussman, but takes some custom wiring configuration. Which just adds more crap to the nest.

While I was able to just do all that with a very clean install by bending a custom mount bracket.




And now it's stupid easy to add things to truck as I aquire them. Just slap them in the buss bars and done.

 

I completely understand his point and caution behind it. I take safety pretty serious on this truck and if there is a generally agreed upon way to either do something correctly, or guaranteed the safest way to do something, then I tend to stick to that or improve upon in my own way. If it wasn't for the way I had my battery relocated to the bed and me wanting to take all accessory wiring off the main battery, outside of the winch, I'd definitely be trying to keep the distance as short as possible between the power cables. The reason I'm personally comfortable running wire the distance that I plan to is because of how my main battery is already setup already running about 10 feet of 4/0 gauge wire spanning that distance.

Clean man. That's definitely the way to do it if you can afford it.

 

I mean if you're running any large gauged wire anywhere, you need to fuse it at the battery. Thats just car wiring 101.

 

this ^ just cause it hasn’t burned down yet doesn’t mean it won’t?