CEL P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419

Thanks. Good thing the spare is permanently removed cuz 35s lol

 

True! Thats why half of my tiny bed is useless. Worth it!

 

Why not use the UG to clear the code? Much easier.

I'm curious to see if it comes back on.

 

Both of these threads are for a 1st gen, but I believe the process to be very similar.

First, a good picture of the system with the bed removed:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-engine-light-for-evap.242126/page-2#post-6136064

Second, is a "how to" with no actual "how to...."
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-the-charcoal-canister.387775/

Again, should be pretty similar. I've heard people say that this can be done easier with the spare tire dropped. I don't think it is necessary to drop the tank or raise the bed.

I'm hoping that the codes simply don't come back for you.

 

Skootter14, honestly if you can indeed install a s/c this is a walk in the park. Unfortunately I did this almost 6+ yers ago and any media I had is gone (along with my tacoma, she was murdered by a wrangler last month.) I do remember I used a 4x4x maybe 12" vertical on a jack to persuade the bed to allow the charcoal canister to be removed. good luck!

 

Sorry to hear that! And thanks haha

 

(pasted from my build thread)

I took on the task of swapping out charcoal canister and filter today. Toyota wanted $623+tax. Parts cost me just over $350 out of the door from that genuinetoyotaparts.com site and it took me about an hour of my time. Not hard to do at all----> if you have 1" spacers OR you commit to raising the bed. Since I am running 1" spacers, I had enough room to get everything out and replaced with zero issues in 1 hour. If you have to lift the bed, there's additional time there.

This job requires a 12mm socket/ratchet and flat head pliers for hose clamps. Total job is 4 bolts, 1 electrical connector, 3 hoses, 2 hose clamps (one you can do by hand though), and a fuel vent hose connector.

Best tool for this job:



Everything that was going to be installed


The 3 hoses and 1 electrical connections up close


Again


This pic shows 1 bolt removed to get the ABS wire connector out of the way (the additional black hose zip tied is for the air locker). The filter itself is also removed.



new filter going in


What the bad sensor looks like. You can see the old, dirty fuel and rusted electrical component. This is primarily why the unit went bad and triggered the 5 CEL Codes




This is the charcoal canister with the front removed so I could take the sensor apart (above pic)


I cut into the smaller filter to see what it actually was. Although it is dirty, next time I would NOT buy this piece since I dont really see it doing too much. If all the fault codes didnt clear then I would spend the additional 65$ or whatever for this. The good part is this piece is VERY easy to install and is done without removing the charcoal canister. This piece comes out first in the process, and goes in last.


Everything back together


I included this pic bc I found it odd that there was this cut mark in the composite bed, exactlywhere where the charcoal canister is which WITHOUT the 1" body lift would make it troubelsome to get out. When I installed this, it was my 3rd canister (the orignal one, THEN I HAD TOYOTA REPLACE IT, and now I did this one). I am 99% sure the worker did this at the dealership to replace it which is UNSAT to me. I cannot prove anything but if anyone else has this same part cut out then maybe I'll think otherwise. . . . ). Makes me upset that the dealership would do this to cut corners. If they do this, what else are they doing?!?!?!? The OEM repair manual calls for dropping the tank OR lifting the bed, not cutting the bed. And this is why I do things myself.


Hope this helps someone in the future!

 

I'll be happy to look under my bed and see if those cut marks are there. I doubt they are. I would take it up to the dealership and point that out to the service manager. No one else would have any reason to cut it. If nothing else, they should at least refund the cost of that service.

 

I’ve had these same 5 codes for a while, been clearing them with an Ultragauge for a year or two. Have any of you experienced any thing other than a slight reduction in MPG? Which is really hard to monitor because of all the mods we do to our truck and even seasonal gas blends. Anything like power loss? I have the 4 cyl and it’s not climbing hills like it used to. I don’t want to replace $400 worth of parts if they are so delicate they’re just going to fail again, I’d rather just keep clearing the codes and monitor.

 

It’s not that common of them to go out, I just know I tip off EVERY gas fill up so that’s why I’m at #3 in 8 yrs.

 

I heard there was a redesign to solve the overfilling the gas tank problem. Had you had any adverse effects other than the 5 codes?

 

I have not, personally. But I think the key takeaway is: in the pics you can see the electrical rusting happening, which causes the codes. If you have emissions testing for registration, you won’t pass (nonreisgtration, no problem then).

I also am not a fan of letting rusty OEM wiring go unchecked since in my mind, the potential is there to mess up that wiring going to the ecu. My truck is a tool and as with all of my tools, I keep them in great shape so they don’t fail me (and the S/C and UCON EMS I’m running I don’t want fuel issues and mess up my motor.

Having said that, there are no dire, shattering effects that I know of for not replacing the components. Just worse mpg allegedly. Again, I’m no expert though.

 

Fair enough. In all the posts I read about this problem and the 5 codes no one said it would do anything to drivability. I live in a place with no emissions testing, so I might just remove it and keep clearing and reading the codes.

 

Absolutely! You may just need to cap off the hoses as I THINK** they may have vacuum associated with them. If the system isn’t “closed” you may trip other codes as well, but I’m not sure. Just something to be cognizant of if it were me.

If you go that route, keep us updated

 

Will do, not until fall though it’s too hot to do any truck projects
That aren’t nessasary.

 

Looks like I’ll be doing this soon.

Those with the canister issue, did you also have trouble filling up the tank. The pump would keep shutting off on you?

 

not until the tank was actually full. . . .

The gas nozzle would not just arbitrarily kick off when I filled up. Only once it had about 21 gals in it.

 

Mine is doing it from a 1/4 tank all the way. I am having a hard time actually completely filling the tank.

 

So idk for sure how the pump nozzle works (im sure a quick google can verify) but I thought the pump works off back pressure or something when the fuel fills up to the spout or something it kicks off. If it’s happening throughout your fill up, my mind goes to a block or restriction in your filler neck that is not allowing the free flow of fuel.

If the pump doesn’t work how I think it does, then this idea is worthless. I’d dig into how the pump knows when to cut off to help drive my trouble shooting

 

That sounds like a separate issue.