CEL P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419

Add me to the list, mate the drive time requirements for the test now hoping the codes clear themselves tonight, if not I'll clear them and see how it goes.

Will update.

Cleaned (without full disassembly) didn't fix it so a new one goes in.

Will open up the pump motor tomorrow and see if my old one is corroded like y'alls.





Don't think it would have been possible to get out without my 1/2" bed lift to match the cab mount flip.

 

I noticed the other day that second gen tundras have the charcoal canister in a much more accessible spot. If mine goes bad again I’m going to head to the pick n pulls and grab just the vacuum pump assembly and sensor off the canister housing to swap in. Much cheaper than spending $250

 

Did you manually clear the codes after changing parts or did the codes clear themselves?

 

i cleared them manually. It will take 2 cycles of driving so you’ll have to drive it and let sit overnight to do the test, don’t fill your tank up too much either.

 

Okay, I have two cycles in now that I know meet the previously posted criteria, was hoping they would clear themselves so I would know for sure that fixed it but they haven't yet. If they don't clear after this sitting session today I'll manually clear them and see if they come back.

 

Manually cleared them this morning, 3 cycles and they were still set so I'm wondering if once set the ECU decides to not run the test again after a fail state.

Hopefully they stay off. If they don't come back in three days and I have no pending codes I'll consider it a success.

Still need still need to cut my motor open, but I'm guessing I'll find corrosion in there like everyone else has so far, would make sense given that it used to be I would only have a failure two or three times during the winter when it was at its coldest, but after this winter especially within the last month or two it was setting almost every other day I think my motor was starting to stick and I was able to limp it along for another 2 years and now it's failed fully due to corrosion.

 

what were the results of your test pressures?

 

I don't know if my adapter can get those, if it can I don't know how to run that test. I'm just using the torque Pro app with all the add-ons and whatnot and one of the better rated Bluetooth OBD2 dongles.

$140 OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Blue...uetooth&qid=1620647650&sprefix=obdII+&sr=8-17

 

so you say you manually cleared them and they are still set? Does that mean pending or the MIL is back? You can also force the test through an OBDII scanner and check everything too.

 

No I cleared them through the app and they're gone now, nothing pending. But the app will pull pending codes not all of them will only the set codes codes.

I'm not that worried about it, mainly because I don't have a scan tool to play with. It should do the check today. If they don't come back after a few days I know I'm good.

For about the last month at least I would clear the codes, the next day they'd show back up as pending, and by the next day they had hard set.

 

I still get mine so infrequently that I forget about it until it happens again. The Ultragauge that I have acts like the world is ending with a pending code, so they never make it to hard codes.

One thing that I have noticed...or rather, have not noticed in quite a while. When I first got the truck, and for the first few years, I would hear a single "pew" a few moments after starting the truck. Like maybe 10 seconds after start. I never figured out what was making the noise. I'm wondering if since I haven't heard that in forever, if it could be the VSV part under the hood that @6 gearT444E referenced in post 134 on the previous page.

 

You have an 11, do you have the secondary air injection system?

My uncle's Tundra does the *pew* and has it.

@6 gearT444E

Well well well, wouldn't you freaking know it it seems like the factory seal doesn't.



Also, are these molded in test points?

They're definitely contacts that pass all the way through the plastic case and I see no other purpose, I'm wondering if they are a moisture vector.

 

Those are just the connections for the vent valve, looks like they are molded into the outside cover. Similar to the ADD actuators where all the circuitry is molded in the cover.

 

I believe the secondary air injection system was introduced on the 2012. That is the system where a lot of folks add the universal air filter in favor of the foam filter, correct? I do not have that.

reference: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/first-year-for-secondary-air-injection-pump.510048/

 

Yeah that's it, I knew they were on the 2012's for sure I think some late production 11's had them as well.

If it's not that then no idea.

I know I hear my electric booster prime when I stick the key in the ignition.

 

Adding my truck 2017 SR5 to this list. I go the codes at 20k miles, cleared, and get them on cold mornings or after a moist day.

Not gonna bother with any repairs until its a pain. I just clear the codes and go.
But, its really a poor design, and looks like it plauges all toyotas?

 

Interesting, I would have expected the third gen to have a revised system but perhaps not.

It does seem to be more of an issue if you live in the salt belt and if you're already having cold days you must live more north than I do.

Try parking in a garage if you can and seeing if that prevents it, it's possible you have a little bit of water in the motor housing that's freezing overnight and keeping the vacuum switching valve motor from turning.

It's a pretty small anemic brushed motor kind of like one you'd see in a computer fan.

 

Pacific NW here. Its cool at night but nice during day currently. No Salt, easy use of truck. No overfilling, cause we cant pump our own gas here and the attendants arent allowed to top off.
Its not like any car is perfect, so I still say Toyota is best. They dont engineer everything, and wouldnt know if some parts were sub par until years later.

 

The same motor is used on all Toyotas, the shape and mounting of the canister is all that changes. It’s a crappy design for a crappy system. Someone (guberment) told Toyota they needed to have this system so they probably outsourced the cheapest parts possible. It doesn’t affect engine performance or reliability so why would they care if it broke? If it was my business I would treat it the same way. Source the cheapest parts that last until just after the warranty is up.

 

It's interesting that some manufacturers use a leak detection pump where others use some form of natural vacuum leak detection for their EVAP systems.
Dodge, GM, and Ford IMO have about the simplest EVAP systems (purge valve, charcoal canister, vent valve, and pressure sensor/switch) but they do seem to be more problematic than others although they are generally cheaper and easier to diagnose and repair.
Not sure what the advantage of using a standalone pump vs engine vacuum is to detect leaks.