Center Compartment Latch Repair

Thanks to this forum, I fixed my '07 Taco that had this issue. Instead of hex set screws, I used one with a flat blade head. Very simple fix. Thanks for this post!

 

this is awesome thanks OP

 

2009 Tacoma TRD. I didn't see any pictures of the black plastic cover on the underside of the compartment cover, so here are mine. Very easy to pop off.
I used 4-40 x 1/4" set screws and drilled 3/32" pilot holes right where the old tabs had worn off. That size allowed me drill the holes with the latch pieces assembled and didn't require any widening of the slots that the tabs travel through.

Popped the 5 screws out of out of the black plastic underpiece, then removed the latch assembly by unscrewing those 2 screws.






Drilled the pilot holes through the slots with the latch assembly together, then used a jewelers screw driver to get the set screw below the top of the slot.





Goes back together just as easily. Satisfaction!

 

I lost the OEM spring. Can someone recommend a proper replacement and source? Thanks.

 

Thank you!!!! Saved 3 bills! So easy, used screws from small Halloween battery covers. Spring from Bic mechanical pencil. Zero $$$ out of pocket.

 

Such a wonderful write up! This 30 minute repair saved me tons of money after running into this issue!

 

If any one needs the drill and tap w/ screws let me know $5 shipped ..

 

Same here, I took apart a pen and used that! Works like a charm, I use that thing everyday, haven't had a problem in a year or so

 

Mine broke less than an hour ago and I've already fixed it! However I did it my own way…

Step 1: With it apart I heated up a paperclip and made 2 guide holes where the old pins were

Step 2: I then reinstalled my spring, and while holding the assembly together heated up two very small nails and pushed them into the guide holes

Step 3: DONE!


Thank you Tacoma world! Still a new member and a new Tacoma owner, however the site keeps amazing me!!!!

 

Thank you for this OP! Great write up and easy repair. 5 mins from start to finish. Works better than new.

 

OP, your write-up is still going strong after 6 years. Helped me out a lot & it was an easy fix .

 

Cannot thank you guys enough! I've been driving around with a pair of shorts shoved between the seat and center console to keep the lid shut for YEARS. Awesome post - thanks!

 

Used 1/4" coat hanger and glue, works like a charm! Thanks to the OP'er!

 

Thanks to all contributors for the various ways of tackling this issue. Briefly are the steps I've taken with some tweaks (possibly too by others) going the route of the wire / coat hanger as suggested in the forum:

This is my first post and also check you tube video if still available https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lx7MOXyk8A0

NOTE: the youtube video may vary a bit with extra steps.

Step 1. Pinch the spring so that it stays with the lock (fig 1 and 2). (This step is optional but I did it first and left it like this for a month as I did not want to do the repair in a rush without properly documenting it.) (shown is a spring from a click pen until I found the original one lying in the carpet)


Fig. 1

Fig 2.

Step 2. Choose available wire hanger (initial cut 1-2 inch) and the drill bit size combination and drill hole on previous location of tabs /stoppers (wire diameter must be a little larger than your chosen/available drill bit refer figs 3 and 4.


Fig. 3


Fig. 4

Step 3. Prime the hole with the initial cut wire (fig 5), cut final length of wire (fig 5.1), then press in the wire with pliers use equivalent tools shown as necessary (fig 5.2, fig 6 and fig 7).


Fig. 5

Fig 5.1


Fig. 5.2


Fig. 6


Fig. 7

Step 4. It is a good time to add lubrication if you have grease anyways (fig 8).


Fig. 8

Step 5. Install, check operation and Enjoy your $0 repair - fig. 9


Fig. 9

Summing up steps above:
Step 1. Pinch the spring so that it stays with the lock (fig 1 and 2). (This is what I did first and left it like this for a month as I did not want to do the repair in a rush without documenting it.)
Step 2. Choose available wire hanger (initial cut 1-2 inch) and the drill bit size combination and drill hole on previous location of tabs /stoppers (wire diameter must be a little larger than your chosen/available drill bit refer figs 3 and 4.tep 3. Prime the hole with the initial cut wire (fig 5), cut final length of wire (fig 5.1), then press in the wire with pliers use equivalent tools shown as necessary (fig 5.2, fig 6 and fig 7).
Step 4. It is a good time to add lubrication if you have grease anyways. (fig 8)
Step 5. Install, check operation and Enjoy your $0 repair. (fig 9)

Thanks again!

 

Mine broke while under warranty and the stealership replaced it. Good to see this thread, for the next time it breaks...

 

I just did this repair while at work on my 15 minute break and was super simple. All the parts were free.99 from the spare parts bin @ work. Thanks to the OP!

 

Luckily I still have the OEM spring. I put a dab of superglue on it after the first incident.
I can't believe Toyota makes it so expensive to repair a wear item.
Thanks to everyone participating in this and other threads. You guys rock!!!!!

 

Need to do this in mine

 

Sub'd. Need to do this! Thanks for the write up OP, and all the other options TW!!

 

I just joined this forum because I wanted to thank "Performance" for providing a simple and easy solution. I used a spring from a Brownells kit for a replacement that is a little stiffer than the stock spring and taped the latch together with spring installed. Cut two 1/4" pieces of a coat hanger and used a 5/32" drill bit to drill the holes where the plastic retainers had broken off. Roughed up the ends of the coat hanger pieces with a diamond file, cleaned them, then used a tiny amount of quickset epoxy to ends before inserting them into the new holes. Once cured, removed tape and installed the latch assembly. All I can say is Thank You for a great solution for a poor design issue!