Centrailia Pa Meet!

Yeah missed that. Then the 20th it is.

 

Thanks guys!

It was time for a change. Maybe everyone will stop PM'ing me about the raptor grills now...

 

Your fine I'm not complaining haha

 

I just checked to see if I could move the shop press at work on my own, Damn thing has to weigh a couple hundred pounds. Might reconsider borrowing it, we'll see. I can probably dolly it to my bed, then flip it in.

 

Don't hurt yourself man. Buddy Lift that crap... Your grand kids will thank you when your playing football with them haha.

 

x2. I speak from experience. My back is toasted at 31. take care of it, they can't be replaced.

 

I jacked up the truck just a bit ago to figure out which bearing is bad. But for the life of me, I can't figure out where the vibration/whirring is coming from. both wheels spin nice, quiet and smooth. No wiggle in camber or toe in/out directions. Lifted the back end, spun the drive shaft, greased all the U-joints, pulled the boot slip-joint boot back and filled it. I did notice the dirveshaft carrier bearing has some slop to it. Might be time to replace that.

 

I am hoping either wheel balance and carrier bearing. If I remember right, the carrier bearing is cheap from the dealership too. I let a lot of pressure out the other day and didn't inflate them back to where they were either, so maybe that's it.

 

I will be using leverage, and possibly a JCB to get it in the back of my truck, if I do. If you find that you won't be doing your bearings, let me know ASAP so I don't have to get this monster.

 

When you are driving down the road, and you hear this whirring noise or vibration, take note that when you turn, and the noise goes away, that if you are turning left, it is driver side bearing, and turning right and noise goes away, it is passenger side bearing. Out of balance tires won't give you a noise as much as they will shake your steering wheel at around speeds of 60mph. If you have a way to strap a camera with the video running under your truck, you may be able to diagnose if it is the carrier bearing or not. My CB has some slop in the bushing too, but I think they are like that to absorb some vibration from the driveshaft. Now if it is making noise, then it is a bad bearing. I think we would need a press for that as well. U joints are easy to diagnose, you just shake em to and fro, and if they have play, then they're no good. If you want to try and diagnose the prob before next weekend and need a second set of eyes and ears, let me know and I may be able to help you out.

 

heres all i got for photos and videos for now... ive been out of town for work for the past 7 weeks and its starting to catch up with me... and my internet blows so i'll try to get the rest of my stuff up eventually

http://s1079.photobucket.com/albums/w513/SAnderson1036/Centralia Sep 2012/

 

Since I wasn't able to make the meet a couple weeks ago and I haven't been up there in awhile, I took a little impromptu drive this afternoon. Nothing special. Hopefully my schedule actually cooperates next time you guys head there.

 

I'm still not sure. If you were bringing the press for just me, don't bother. I don't think it's wheel bearings. I've had them go bad before, this is different. The carrier always wiggles, yes, but I can feel the rubber insert is going bad, there is slop in it. No press needed for that as far as I know. After airing up more and greasing everything, it feels better but it is still there. I will keep you posted.

 

Thank you.

 

I will be there sat the 20 still, unless I have to work. I will know by wednesday.

 

I got the diagnosis backward anyway. Turn left, noise goes away, bad passenger side bearing. Turn right, noise goes away, bad driver side bearing. And yeah, update me on what we are going to do so I can bring the right tools.

 

I'm thinking it is the carrier bearing. I even just remembered I have a new one in the garage from my '99. Now to find out if the part numbers are the same.

 

What other options do I have? I wouldn't call it crap, after all, this one did last over 100k miles. I thought they were cheap, but I just priced a new one and they are over $200.

 

Just popping in to say Aloha. Haha sliders are paid for just waiting for shipping invoice and then ill be drilling into the truck to install them, figure they'll be easier to re-paint if they aren't welded. Plasti Dip is that a good CHEAP choice for the paint? I didn't powder coat them as I know they're just going to get used anyway.

 

I would STRONGLY advise angainst plasti-dip for the sliders. It will not hold up. You will be stepping on the sliders, bumping and rock rashing them. Plasti-dip will peel like sunburned skin. Sand them with fine grit, 240 or whatever to remove surface rust, clean with MEK or acetone and then apply primer of your choice, and finally paint, in however many coats you want.