Ceramic Coating and/or Paint Protection Film?

These threads make me feel like a bad Tacoma caregiver.


Bought my Tacoma new in May 2021, didn't let the dealer sell me any paint protection, have driven it 17k miles and it has never been washed.
It seems happy, I'll try to detail it soon.

I usually use two buckets (one with soap) with grids, quality soap, foam cannon, microfiber mitt and chamois cloth to dry.
Any suggestions on modifying my routine from the detailing crowd?

 

Nothing wrong with that man. I wish I could just not care about how my truck looks but I do hah, even though I wheel it.

When you don’t care it makes life so much easier.

You could throw some spray on wax on your paint after the wash, will take you extra 30 mins and your paint will look awesome.

 

Everything you researched is correct. Except, I doubt you would need a professional to Ceramic coat your truck. Especially when it is new.

Here is a tip if you are going to ceramic coat it or use wax/sealant.

Very Important!
Tell the dealer to NOT WASH the truck when they get it, not to touch the exterior, inspect it and keep every one of their scratchy rags away from the truck.
You would rather have finger prints all over than swirl marks. And don't believe the dealer that their cloths/towels don't scratch.

Touchless Car washes are ok for ceramics, it's just that the harsh soap will degrade the topcoat on the Coating faster is what the real problem is.
Touchless is not really bad for high quality PPF's but the harshness of the chemicals does degrade it.
Mechanical washes are a big nope. Shit stuck in the brushes leaves micro scratches.

You never told us what color your truck is.. ?

Since it is new there should be very little color correction (lol fancy term for polishing) needed.

Darker colors show scratches more than light colors. Metalic paint also hides micro scratches.
If it is untouched, new and white, may not need any polishing at all!

I have a 2017 202 Black Tacoma I ceramic coated with Cquartz 3.0. (worst color for showing everything)
2016 Huracan With Self-Healing Xpel PPF.
1969 Camaro that has had 30 years of Waxes and sealants on it.

Yes dust still sticks, but some ceramic coatings topcoats are better than others at being "anti-static"
Overall I have not seen any remarkable difference between Ceramics, PPF or Waxes and sealants.

For washing the vehicles the Ceramic is the easiest. It is a harder coating than the others.
it also resists scratching from bushes dragging down the side.
And will take small rock strikes on the highway much much better than waxes or sealants, but not as good as a healing PPF obviously.

PPF actually micro scratches real easy, but sun or hot water and they disappear.

But if you have hard water that leaves lots of calcium deposits, the water beading the Ceramic and PPF causes will make it seem worse as it condenses the water into tall beads.
So good micro-fiber drying towels or leaf blower is a must.
The Ceramic topcoats make it easier you remove water spots but they are still a bitch.
Waxes/sealants are easier to remove hard water spots after they have set in for a few days, as you essentially just remove the spot with the wax buffing out the spot

I did the color correction myself on the Tacoma,
It is really really easy to do yourself!

Watch a few Youtube videos on using a DA random orbital polisher, (but also realize these guys are trying to teach to levels of polishing a gloss black Lamborghini type of thing) so even as easy as they make it look, it's actually much easier than that.

For a beginner with a new truck, get a cheap 5 or 6" Double Action polisher from harbour freight, 2 medium (if your truck is a dark color) and 2 finishing/fine polishing pads for it.

Then get Meguiars ScratchX,
It's abrasive compound breaks down as you use it and it goes from like a medium polish to fine finishing polish after a couple passes with the polisher.

With the new DA polishers, you will have to purposely try to screw it up. Dont go over the same area 20x and don't sit in the same spot for 10 mins.

They are not as fast as the older rotory polishers,
but they won't burn the paint from heat, cut on corners and ridged edges, and cut down the paint thickness as fast either.
It's really much harder to screw up with a DA.

Just like waxing your vehicle with a regular polisher, in fact if you've ever done that you've learned half the technique.

New truck you could be done in a little bit longer, that if you were waxing it.

Use a degreaser or rubbing alcohol to clean the section you are applying the coating to.
Cquartz 3.0 is one of the most forgiving Ceramics for the beginner to apply.
Again much easier than you would think to apply, if fact once you've done it you would wonder why you would pay someone else.
Tips,
Use 1/2 the amount on the applicator that they recommend, or you are just wiping away the coating, thick coats only make more work wiping it off.
Don't wait for it to get tacky, once it does you have to spend twice the time wiping off the area.
Throw out your used microfiber towels you used for wiping and buffing the Ceramic coating when you are done.
Do NOT apply in sunlight, the UV cures the coating too fast and you will get streaks and have to polish it out and re-apply.
But do have a flashlight to look for streaks and scratches at an angle.
Once the temperature gets higher than 23C 73F you have to polish the coating off a lot sooner than say 15C 60F. In fact at the colder temp you can apply half a body panel before buffing it off.

My Cquartz 3.0 is now 4 years old and the truck still looks brand new.
Water beads on it and it still washes much easier than the other two systems.
Water actually beads better than the waxes I've tried.
Winter time it goes through Touchless washes or the hand wand wash.
I wipe it down with Reload every 4 months, just like a wipe on/wipe of wax treatment.

The Ceramic has the highest gloss of the 3.

PPF takes damage from stones, the more expensive "healing" ones you leave it in the sun or put very warm water on it and it fixes itself, but sometimes you get little tears from the strike and have to push the film back into place before the heat.

Quality PPF is the best for protection. But is not as glossy as the Ceramic, and I noticed that the colored PPFs don't get that Gloss depth like Ceramic or Clear PPF over color.

One thing that I never hear mentioned is that PPF (especially clear) shows the dirt is collects at the edges, and after 6 years on the Lambo that is babied in the garage has stated to slightly peel on a few of the edges.

PPF I have also seen branches "hook" into it and rip it as the truck went by. Then that hole panel needs new PPF.

When I plan to go offroad on bushy trails, I put a wax on the Ceramic.
Ceramic is much harder that the Toyota paint, and the wax acts like a lubricant.

I have literally heard that awful nails on the chalkboard sound on the truck pushing past bushes.
I would have bet a thousand dollars when I was getting out of the truck that I would have been looking at pinstriping.
Truck still looks better than new.
BUT you have to be careful what towels you use, especially if your truck is black as you will still get micro scratches on Ceramics over time.

Waxes and Sealants have a slight advantage with hard water and are easy to apply and remove. (Keep wax off black plastic btw)
But they are not as glossy and are the least protective.
But are much much better than nothing.

If you go with the expense of PPF go with the expensive ones. UV rays will break down the polymers and pigments in the cheap stuff a lot faster.
Self healing is mandatory or you might as well just Ceramic coat it.

Best Overall: Ceramic coated PPF. But you'll have to do maintenance on edges after a period of time.

Best looking; Multi-Layer Ceramic coating only.

Least amount of work over the past 4 years, Ceramic coating only.

Fastest / cheapest/ Least Effort: Waxes Sealants. But you would have to strip and re-apply every 1-3 months to keep it looking almost as good as the other two options.
But it will not protect as good or look as good as the other two options.

While Ceramic does not seem to get as dirty as quickly as the other two. It's not any fantastic amount to really make a difference, it's just a little bit easier the clean.




Oh yeah, bug deflectors help a lot too. Even with small stones.

But whichever path you go down, Stay away from Touch car washes and only use Good clean microfiber cloths, drying towels. And 2-3 bucket wash sytem.

 

Pretty similar for my 2001 tundra except for the paint chips and the clear coat peeling on the roof of the cab. The sides and tail gate looked great.

 

Nice, thanks for the info. Yours has been holding up well even with the drive-thru car washes? Did your place use a specific brand of ceramic coating? Looks like around here the options include Ceramic Pro, CQuartz, or IGL, with Ceramic Pro offered at more places.

 

It has been holding up great. I had the ceramic coating done March 2nd. It's been just over three months. During that time, it has been rained on. Gotten muddy. I have driven it thru the car wash 10 times (estimated). It has held up better than expected.

I park my truck in the garage every night, and this morning before I left for work, I accidently hit the garage light instead of the garage door button. Fluorescent lights against a blue truck really make it shine. I looked closely and there was hardly any dirt on it and no hard water stains or swirl/spider marks. Well, I couldn't FIND any. There may be some.....because that's what drive-thru washes do.

Like I said before, it was pricey, but worth it. I get so many compliments on the color and how clean the truck (almost) always looks.

 

You’re talking about the paint protection film? Was yours installed by the dealer or by a professional shop? I like the idea of protecting against dings and scratches but have concerns about the film drying or yellowing.

 

dang! almost have me convinced to do it to our tacoma and tundra

 

That’s helpful, thanks. What’s the warranty like? I’m concerned about it drying out or yellowing over time, especially in a hot dry climate and exposed to the sun all the time. Did you have the dealer do the PPF or another professional shop? My dealer will do it, including the whole truck option, and then it’s got a lifetime warranty. But I’m inherently skeptical of dealership add-on options like that.

 

Do you know what brand they used? I’m definitely going the professional route…

 

I just took these pictures. I had the truck washed on Tuesday. It was a drive thru place, but it uses the high powered air to blow it dry.

Since then it has been driven to work several times (36 miles round trip each time). It has been subjected to: Road Grime. Dust. Dirt, Pollen, Ragweed. Grass clippings. Mountain Cedar and whatever else mother nature has thrown at it.

It's over cast right now in my area, but I hope these pictures can help you make a better informed decision.

Full truck:



Upclose drivers side door:



Upclose hood:

 

That is interesting… My current vehicles I’ve owned for 11 and 12 years respectively, but don’t have an exact plan for the truck. I will say I see a whole lot of faded paint on cars here in Arizona. The UV is intense here. And I don’t want my truck, which is red, to end up like those - whether that’s because I’m keeping it long-term or because I’m protecting its resale value. I spent first 30 years of my life in central Florida and don’t feel like I noticed that as much there as I do here in the desert. But I hear what you’re saying about how manufacturers are approaching their paint. I don’t have any salesperson trying to sell me anything (not yet anyway Lol), just researching options of how I might protect this new investment. Appreciate your input.

 

Thanks for confirming my general understanding. Considering getting PPF on the most vulnerable areas of the truck, and then doing professional ceramic coating. I don’t expect it to be a no-maintenance miracle but I do imagine it will help protect against the intense UV here in AZ. Also, honestly, I just don’t have the time to personally do the detailing that would offer that level of protection (or shine Lol). What kind of maintenance is required on the ceramic coating, in your understanding or experience? Seems like local shops that are authorized to use brands like Ceramic Pro, IGL, or CQuartz have packages that involve detailing and/or reapplication at various intervals.

 

Thanks for this thorough rundown. Really helpful, appreciate the time you put into this.

First, the new taco will be the Barcelona Red Metallic. So not as bad as black, but not as easy as white, I assume. I’ve never had anything other than white or really light colored cars so I’m not sure what a red vehicle will be like.

Honestly, at least in the short-term, I don’t have much time to expend on doing the detailing myself. So I’m planning to let the professionals handle whatever I decide to do.
I appreciate all the info you shared, though, and took notes for later Lol

Currently leaning toward some PPF on the most vulnerable front parts of the truck, and then ceramic coating. There’s a couple well-regarded shops here that I’m starting to talk to about options. Seems like there’s 3 brands available, depending on the shop: Ceramic Pro, IGL, and CQuartz. You have any experience with any of those being professionally applied? Also going to talk to shops about the warranties involved, which might help me make the decision. If I’m putting this investment in financially (especially because I’ve never done detailing myself, and don’t have much time for it these days), I want to have done the research and spend my money wisely.

Good note about not letting the dealer touch the car before I take delivery! That might be a hard sell as I’m sure my sales guy wants it looking shiny and spotless. But I’ll do my best to get him to leave it alone so I can take it to get ceramic coating right away.

Oh, and what bug deflector do you like? I think I was looking at AVS and maybe Weathertech had one… I know they won’t help avoid everything and people have mixed feelings about them. But it seems like it might be worth a shot? Especially as I encounter a lot of gravel roads. They seem easy to install too?

 

As everyone else eluded to, it all boils down to what are you willing to pay. I personally do my own ceramic coating in my garage.

 

My trucks never been washed either in over 2 years with roughly the same miles, but with the ceramic protection when it rains the truck appears just like i picked it up new. I was told i'd never need to wash or do anything else to the exterior.

 

It was done by simonize. Took 2 days. I have no idea what they used only that they briefly showed me this brown bottle of something thats applied. The prep work was pretty extensive from what the truck first needed.

 

Just learned from my dealer that they do in fact offer paint protection. And it’s “Glass Coat Ceramic Paint Protection” by Simoniz. That’s what you did? Think you said you had it dealer-installed before taking delivery? I’m skeptical of things done at dealers but I inquired, since I’m comparing all the options. He said it’s $1,299 at the dealership. I need to get firmer quotes from the detail shops, but seem like it’s more expensive at the dealership. Do you remember how much you paid, if you don’t mind my asking? No worries if you’d rather not share. He say it includes lifetime warranty. He scanned a brochure from the dealership and emailed it to me - the brochure talks about the ceramic paint protection and also an interior stain-prevention treatment. I’m unclear if the price he stated includes the interior too. Still super skeptical about trusting the dealership but seems like some folks, like you, have had good experiences.

 

I had it arranged with the dealer when i bought the truck, it was to have that ceramic glass coat, and the interior protected by simoniz. Cost was around $650 for everything. Apparently toyota dealers must have some deal with simoniz to sell their program, or even be authorized to do it themselves. Really comes down to who/shop that does the work right when its mostly labor involved. I guess its similar to an auto body shops paint job on a car. You can get a crappy job to. My experience has been great, well worth it. From what i heard they do a lot of cars/trucks in the boston area so these guys know what their doing. I wish something like that was available locally back in 2001 for my tundra.

 

I couldn't be bothered. I get my truck rustproofed yearly and the paint (and frame) look great even after 10 years of harsh winters. I use touchless car washes in the winter to remove the salt. Unless the wife washes the truck in the summer, it rarely gets cleaned.

Luckily, pin striping is almost unnoticeable due to the colour of my Quicksand.

It is a garage queen!