CH4x4 Dual switch - making it work with fog lights

I really wanted to use a nice dual button switch in place of my stock fog light switch when I installed my bumper light bar. I searched a bunch of threads and couldn't find the right solution, so I made my own. This is on a dual button switch from CH4X4 and has the "back light" that comes on with the head lights and is dimmable. The "power on" led can either be left working, or in my case, I just got ride of it. In my case, the dimmable backlight is blue, and the "power on" LED is green.

First things first, open up the switch. Pry the two top tabs open, then along the sides and the cover pops off. Then use small pliers or a small screw driver to carefully lift he plungers up and out of the buttons. Remove the buttons, then slide the circuit board out of the housing.

The issue with using this switch on the fog light circuit is that the switch is meant to switch power, and the stock fog light switches ground. When the fog lights are off, there's +12 volts on the factory line, with enough current to light up the switch LED but not close the circuit and turn the lights on. The way the circuit is designed, if there's +12 volts on the "load pins", then it has a path to the "power on" LED. On the board are 2 switches. Pins 1 and 2 aren't connected to anything. The center pins (3+4) are connected to the red switch wire and are for +12 supply. Pins 5 and 6 are joined on the board and go to the "power led" and to the "load" that you're switching on/off. The slider inside the switch connects left and right pins as well as connecting 3/4 to 5/6 when in the on condition.

If you want to keep the "power on" led when the button is pressed, you have to get rid of the connection between pins 5 and 6 on the board. Desolder those pins and use a Dremel to split the pad. You then solder pins 5 and 6 back in individually. I desoldered those pins and tried to cut the pad between them, but didn't have a Dremel. After a while of trying I gave up and went with option 2. The pad is thicker than a normal trace and takes more effort to split.

If you don't want the power on LED to function at all(this is the route I went), remove the switch from the board. This took 2 of us and 2 soldering irons to heat all 8 pins (there's 2 anchor pins that aren't electrically connected to anything in the corners) up at once and remove it. Once the switch is out of the way, the "power on" led positive trace is the one closest to the edge of the board. A razor blade and a few swipes and I had a gap in the trace (confirmed with a multimeter). Then repeat for the other switch and reinstall.

Since theres a common pin on both switch circuits, you have to switch both loads to ground instead of switching power. The new wiring scheme has the switch red lead connected to ground, the yellow switch lead connected to the green truck wire for backlight +, the black switch lead connected to the green striped truck wire for LED dimming ground, green switch wire connected to the blue truck fog light wire, and the blue switch wire connected to pin 85 on the light bar relay. The blue and green switch wires may have to swap on your setup depending on which button is on top. In my case, light bar was on top, fog lights on the bottom. The black striped wire on the truck side goes unused.

Pin 86 on the light bar relay has to be run to +12 fused power. If you buy an off the shelf light bar harness, it's not wired to switch ground and will need to be cut and put back together correctly or you'll have a short and blow your fuses. In this case, it's probably easier to wire your own relay than to buy an off the shelf harness.

Put the switch back together and now you have a dimmable backlit switch with or without a power on led indication.