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Change the front bushings in your Dakars

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by GHOST SHIP, Mar 5, 2017.

  1. Mar 5, 2017 at 2:51 PM
    #1
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    I went through the trouble of doing this simple upgrade this past weekend, and just wanted to share the info. A quick shakedown afterward tells me I should've done this a year and a half ago before I installed the leaf pack, but I didn't think it was necessary. It would've been a lot easier with the leafs off the truck, but it's not entirely difficult to do the swap while the leafs are still installed by the rear shackle.

    Here's the issue:
    The front rubber bushing that comes installed in the Dakar leaf pack is "pressed" in place. I put that in quotes because it really isn't difficult to remove the bushing and that tells me the bushing isn't held in place with too much force and results in it having some give and can walk out of alignment with the front spring eye. Everyone knows that Dakar are squeaky fucks, but for a while now I found that most of my squeaks were coming from the front spring eye. A quick inspection showed me what the problem was: the bushing had walked out of place and the steel spring was rotating and rubbing on the front spring hanger. The front hanger has about a 1/2" of room total after the leaf pack is in place so the eye can move slightly from side to side even after torquing everything down. Here you can see how far out the bushing had moved out of place:

    IMG_8547.jpg

    The result of the rubbing and source of the squeak:

    IMG_8553.jpg

    You can see that the paint had rubbed through where the steel spring eye was rubbing against the spring hanger. As a reminder of how loose the bushing was, a couple of whacks with a ball-peen hammer knocked it out of the eye. It seriously didn't take too much force. The spring eye after removal was clean and showed no signs of rust or wear:

    IMG_8552.jpg

    The overspray in the background was some PB blaster that I used before even attempting to take the bushing out. Don't really know if I needed it or not, but I suspect it would've come out just as easily without. Here's the bushing after removal:

    IMG_8550.jpg

    It still looks good and has plenty of life in it, but will not be reused in the springs. Surface rust was minor and expected.

    Comparison of old vs. new:

    IMG_8556.jpg

    The new bushing is a Wheeler's off-road polyurethane bushing. The same one I installed in the rear spring eye when I first installed my leafs. Comes with the small packet of Prothane grease for install and I recommend using all of it on the bushing and the contact faces. Here's the new bushing in their new home and all lubed up:

    IMG_8554.jpg

    A little more grease was applied to the contact face of the bushing after this picture was taken as well as inside the spring hanger. As you can see, the small shoulder on the bushing that sits outside the spring eye will prevent the spring from making any metal-to-metal contact in the future and help the leaf spring seat better in the hanger, taking up more of the useable space inside.

    For some reason, the driver's side bushing didn't want to come out as easily as the passenger side. Whacking and spraying with PB blaster did nothing to move it even though it had also walked out just like the passenger's side.

    Me: I need a puller and I don't have one.

    Also me: Make one.

    15-evil-kermit.w1200.h630.jpg

    Used some scraps I had laying around and welded a couple bolts together and used a small length of pipe to pull the stubborn sumbitch out.

    IMG_8560.jpg

    IMG_8559.jpg

    I'm posting this because the truck rides a lot smoother now and the squeaks are all gone hopefully to never return. In hindsight, I say again that I should have done this before I installed the leaf pack in the first place, but it wasn't that hard to do on the truck. Total time spent was maybe 1.5 hours using a hi-lift and a floor jack and hand tools (including time spent cursing and taking pictures, but not counting trying to figure out and making the puller).

    If you plan on installing Dakars in the future, take the time to replace the front bushing. If you have them already and have an annoying squeak, check the front bushing before you start getting used to it.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  2. Mar 5, 2017 at 2:59 PM
    #2
    Truck Yeah

    Truck Yeah OK, maybe just 1 more...

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    Nice write up and good to keep in mind for the future. My Dakars so far have been fairly squeak free over the last 2 years or so. Knock on wood. Thanks for sharing
     
    GHOST SHIP[OP] likes this.
  3. Mar 5, 2017 at 3:02 PM
    #3
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    Great write up Ghost Ship! :thumbsup:
    Thanks.
     
    lynyrd3 and GHOST SHIP[OP] like this.
  4. Mar 5, 2017 at 3:16 PM
    #4
    gmann1972

    gmann1972 Well-Known Member

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    I am installing Dakars in a few weeks, they are on order and I am awaiting there arrival...I ordered them from Headstrong and they suggested I do a complete bushing install kit before installing the new leafs. I did agree with them, but didn't really understand why, At the time I just figured I didn't want to replace the bushings later down the road, do it once and forget it. After reading your right up I'm glad I decided to order the complete bushing kit. Now I understand...Thanks for the right up...great job...
     
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  5. Mar 5, 2017 at 3:17 PM
    #5
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    Sna likes this.
  6. Mar 5, 2017 at 4:46 PM
    #6
    REDdawn6

    REDdawn6 Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if there are other ways to remove it stuck bushing? I have a set waiting for install.. I would like to do this as well...
     
  7. Mar 5, 2017 at 6:12 PM
    #7
    Sna

    Sna Well-Known Member

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    I ordered the complete kit from Headstrong and am going to do this when mine get installed. I know lots have used the rubber bushing but the PU ones are just that much better and I only like doing things once.

    Thanks for the heads up! :thumbsup:
     
  8. Mar 5, 2017 at 7:38 PM
    #8
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    If you already have them, lay them on their side with some plywood underneath the main pack, but leave the bushing eye unsupported. A few well placed blows with a hammer will show you how easy they come out. Once you get it out enough, I found that some large channel locks could grab the bushing sleeve and the rest just wiggles right out. If that doesn't work, I'm not opposed to shipping my homemade puller out as long as it gets forwarded to those that need it. It's basically scrap now that I'm done with the job anyway.
     
  9. Mar 5, 2017 at 7:48 PM
    #9
    REDdawn6

    REDdawn6 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man.. That doesn't sound to hard, play by play appreciated!
     
  10. Mar 5, 2017 at 7:50 PM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    No problem. You don't need a heavy duty press with these since they aren't in there super tight. You can pretty much go ape to get them out.
     
  11. Mar 5, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #11
    Subway4X4

    Subway4X4 Shameless Copy Cat

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    Thanks.
    I'll do this in a couple weeks.
     
  12. Mar 5, 2017 at 8:07 PM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    I should also add that the second part of this project was to remove the rear shackle and grease the bushing faces on the spring and shackle. The stock bushing in the shackle doesn't have a risk of walking because it is captured with internal sleeves and has a shoulder that sits outside the shackle mount. This means two things: 1. It's in there pretty good. 2. It's a bitch to get out if you wanted to switch that one to a PU bushing as well. I don't see an immediate need to swap the shackle bushing out, but since it is rubber it is still considered a wearable item and maybe down the line time can be taken to replace it with PU if necessary. A cheaper solution than buying a new complete shackle.

    A recent conversation with @Crom turned up some interesting information that the bolts for the rear spring eyes and shackles could be overtorqued causing binding at these points. I suggested he back the nut off his shackle bolts to see if that helped regained some down travel in his suspension and it worked. I ignored my own advice until now and that's why I also greased and retorqued the rear (lower LBS with blue loctite). Three days of driving later and I can already feel a difference in the rear of the truck. Completely changed the manners on and off road.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
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  13. Mar 6, 2017 at 8:45 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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  14. Mar 6, 2017 at 8:56 AM
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    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    You wouldn't happen to know the torque value for these bolts off hand by chance? Figure I may need to undo mine and retorque to make sure they're correct.
     
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  15. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:05 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    The Toyota manual states 120lbs. Found here:
    FSM_Torque_Specs_-_Leaf_Spring_Diagram_4wd_Pre-Runner_[1].jpg

    TBH, I rarely pull out my torque wrench unless I'm working on engine internals. A quick way to check if you have this issue would be to jack the truck up (ideally from frame or sliders) and get the wheels off the ground. Look at the rear shackle and see if it is rotated all the way forward. If it isn't, your bushing is binding. Just back the nut off a 1/2 turn and you should see the shackle move as soon as it is loose. I pulled the nut completely and used blue Loctite on mine for added peace of mind- tightened the nut by hand and then backed if off a 1/4 turn so I'm definitely not at 120 anymore. No telling where I was before this weekend. Using the blue Loctite, I don't feel like I need to go by Toyota's recommended torque spec. The goal was to get rid of the binding.
     
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  16. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:30 AM
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    REDdawn6

    REDdawn6 Well-Known Member

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    So , for my install. I watched a video... Dude got the front and the leaf on the rear end lined up hand tight, with the rear shackle hand tight . Then he tightened the front rear and ubolts. He put truck on ground to let the leaf and shackle line itself up? then tightened. Is this not a good way for install? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31ORzqSCKHQ&t=5s
    I liked this way of install because he let the truck align the rear shackle with leafpack , after the front and ubolts were tight.
     
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  17. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:37 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    If you're talking a straight install, then yes, that's the way to do it. The leaf pack locates the rear axle via center pin and u-bolts. You want to do final torque with the vehicle on it's own weight. If you torque everything down prior to that while still jacked up, you'll hear pops and clunks on your first drive as everything settles into it's final place and you'll have to retorque again anyway.
     
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  18. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:50 AM
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    REDdawn6

    REDdawn6 Well-Known Member

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    OK. Cool man
    So, you saying, they've the far rear shackle bolt, a fraction less than 120ft tq?
     
  19. Mar 6, 2017 at 9:56 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    I didn't measure torque on the rear bolts. Just tightened it down to where I though it was good and the bushing wasn't binding. Blue Loctite will keep it there for me. I'm comfortable with it, after all, my life sort of depends on it. I'm pretty sure I'm nowhere near 120 though. Don't take my word for it (legal disclaimer so I don't get sued), Toyota came up with that number for a reason. With all the modifications we do to our trucks for specific improvements, that's just one I found to keep the rear suspension loose and freely moving up and down. If you're not entirely comfortable with the install on your own, you may want to ask a few trusted sources just to get more opinions.
     
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  20. Mar 6, 2017 at 10:58 AM
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    highnitro

    highnitro Member

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    Agreed. engine internals, multi bolt arrangements where even pressure is required (like wheels), and stretch hardware.
     

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