Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

You don’t need it. Post 2009 trucks have electronic LSD so no need for the additive. Just changed mine out on the weekend.

 

I made it to page 10, and about 50 other pates of tacoma trans/diff threads.
I can't tell if I have A.D.D or LSD on my car. The dealer looked up my VIN and didn't know. Does anyone know?
1998 Tacoma, SR5 V6 3.4L, 4WD, TRD Off-Road package. There is no sticker on the rear differential, but looks like there was one at some time.

The dealer said to jack the car up and spin the rear wheel, if they both spun the same way then Limited Slip, if opposite or only one then NOT limited slip.
My owners manual says nothing about any LS additive to rear differential, it says to use GL-5 SAE90 above 0F, and 80W90 below 0F.
My owners manual says for front differential with ADD use GL5 SAE75W90, otherwise the SAE90 or 80W90 above or below 0F.

I guess it doesn't make much difference, I ordered RedLine MT90 for the manual trans and transfer case, and was going to use 75W90 GL5 Valvoline for the two differentials. But I'd like to know about the LSP and ADD. Thx.
Oh, also, the 1998 front differential fill bolt is NOT where all the pictures in this thread show it. I believe it's on the top side, towards the front bumper, after watching a vid, but I couldn't find it while under there wire brushing and putting penetrating-oil on all the other 7 bolts.

 

My manual says the exact same thing for my ‘07 sport. It’s the same truck as the OP’s but a couple years newer. No mention of the LSD additive in my manual either, but I added it to the rear at $20 per 4oz tube from the local dealer, as instructed by the tutorial. My trucks running fine.

As far as how to tell if you have LSD or not, I’m not sure.

 

Confirmed.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=hiw+to+kn...i=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0DeTzQWNBQ

 

Thx for the video on checking LSD.
Just checked my truck, NOT Limited Slip-- they spun opposite directions.

Also, I recalled and confirmed, that my 4wd TRD OR package does have the RR Diff Lock button, though I've never used it.
Also, I just now saw a button near the "RR Diff Lock" button, called "Clutch Start Cancel" which I've never looked at or used either lol.
After crawling around under there last night cleaning and prepping all the drain/fill bolts with penetrating oil, I realize I should REALLY have done some cleaning after 4 wheeling during duck season... dried mud like concrete under there! Used a wire brush on a drill to clean up the bolts.

UPDATE: Found the front diff fill bolt, opposite side (pax side), towards front, and it's a 10mm hex key required. However the drain bolt on mine is a 12mm hex key, had to go buy one today. ALSO, right there on a sticker on the R front axle where it comes into the front differential, it says, "A.D.D. use GL-5 SAE

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90", so I guess that's pretty clear But you've got to be up near the radiator looking back to see the fill bolt and that sticker.

 

This stuff ok for diffs?

 

Thats what I got. The quart bottles suck with fluid transfer pumps so I would go with the gallon jugs. I know people recommend this and at least my truck calls for 75w85 gl5 which is what you have and redline website suggests that

 

I was just concerned about the front saying "hypoid limited slip differentials." i thought tacomas didn't have limited slip?

 

I think toyota stopped LSD in 2009 roughly but I don't think it'll hurt our trucks. Mine is good so far. Maybe someone else can chime in. Im sure its been covered in this thread several times. Can search through thread if no one else will chime in

 

+1. I don't recall the exact timing, but that sounds about right. In my experience, there's no harm in using LSD-compatible lubricant in non-LSD applications. The reverse, however, is not always true - LSDs require the friction modifier to work correctly.

 

I changed my rear diff fluid back in 2010 around 30k miles with Amsoil 75-90... I just changed my rear differential fluid again at 196k miles... hehe... I have been busy! The fluid looks good and not much metal shaving on the magnetic. I replaced with new Amsoil 75-90... I guess I wont have to do it again for a LONG time! I need to do that transfer case soon, maybe tomorrow!

 

Did my 2010 with 185,000 miles. Nice write up. To my surprise the plugs came right off.
Fluid was rank and very used...For all I know this was the first time the fluid has been changed because I got the truck used with 78K certified...so MAYBE they changed it then...

 

I think I put the drain plug crush washer on backwards. Is that bad?

 

super helpful info. thanks OP!

 

going to take advantage of black fri sales at advance auto and get some

$30 mobil 1 75W 90 synthetic gear lube - 1 quart (pack of 2)

mobil 1 75W 90.
All i need is 3 bottles correct? or should i get 4?
i read somewhere maybe here that it’ll take more than 3

Do you guys think i need to replace the crush washer? or doesn’t that really matter? looking to do the change soon and not wait for new washer to come in if i don’t have to

 

Rarely do I change the crush washer while changing the engine oil. When doing transmission and differentials, I always replace them. Personally, I would not want to do the job twice due to poor planning. On the other hand, might be fine and you saved 2 bucks. Risk vs reward is not sufficient for me.

 

yeah i never change when doing the engine oil. and have never had a issue. also the PN for the washer is

$21 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010

12157-10010 correct?

 

I have around 49,000 miles on the truck. Should I do this now or wait till 60,000?

 

Pretty sure 30k is the recommendation from manufacturer