Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

ANY Multi Grade LUBRICANT HAS ‘ SYNTHETIC ‘ Components

not sure what issues asynth cpould pose for U

there are still straight weight oils available if U are so inclined

 

I’ve been using conventional 75W90 or 80W90 (can’t remember which one), and Valvoline brand only because it’s readily available and pretty inexpensive in the gallon jug. The pumps for the gallon jugs are so much faster compared to the quart bottle pumps. Just get a tube from the hardware store that is long enough to reach the front diff from the pump. If I remember correctly, getting to the transfer case with the gallon jug isn’t too bad.

 

Thanks. Dropped by Advance Auto today and they had

$30 Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W 90 only in synthetic. Mobil 1 and Royal Purple. He said most places don’t cary conventional dyno gear oils anymore lol. I think I will be trying some other parts stores.

 

I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 and have had zero issues. I like their packs which make it easy to pour.

 

I heard a lot of guys liking the severe gear. The squeeze packs seem easier to use too. So with those you don’t need a pump for any of the diffs or transfer case plenty of room to just squeeze them in?

How much $ you find them for?

 

No you don't need any pump with the Amsoil packs. I also replaced trans fluid, I think you could do that without a pump but I had a transmission pump with my fluid in it that I used.

I actually got setup as an Amsoil dealer recently, had been using their products and really liked the good results we were getting, especially with ATF.
Looks like the Severe Gear 75w90 is around $20qt retail depending if you buy a case or individual. https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-90-svg/?code=SVGPK-CA

 

Sounds convenient, but packs are a bit steep. I wonder if it’s because they are convenient and easy to put in or is the severe gear really good stuff?

 

There regular quart bottles are same price, you pay a premium for a premium oil. If you create an account on Amsoil you can get Preferred customer pricing which is $15 per qt.

 

So I got the Valvoline for like $13.99/quart at auto zone. Thought I was getting a steal, but then they charged me 3 taxes here in SC! Happened to drop by Advance and they have special through February for Valvoline bags every 2 you buy they are 25% off right now $15.99 base and somehow they charge less taxes than the Auto Zone down the street wtf! So I got 6 bags for $78 including tax at Advance. Auto Zone was $92 with tax.

Gonna do the job any day now washer kit came in from Amazon this morning.

You fill the diffs and trans case just below threads or up to threads?

 

Up to the threads, with the truck level.

 

Just to confirm I have a 2018 DCLB TRD Sport Auto, I would need to fill the rear 3.1 liters/2.7 quart and the front takes 1.5 liters/1.3 quart, no additive required?

 

Those numbers seem a bit light. Check your manual to be sure my manual for my 2011 says 3.12 quarts for the rear and 1.59 quarts for the front. Pretty sure you don’t need an additive for a 2018 as they clutches are updated.

 

just finished the break-in period for the new gears and truetrac! thanks again for this post. just needed a quick refresher

 

I am fairly new to working on my vehicle and am having trouble figuring out if my truck will need an additive for the rear diff. I have a 2022 Toyota Tacoma TRD off road 4x4 with rear locker.

I’m planning to buy 6qts of redline 75w-85 fully synthetic oil to change the front and rear diff fluid. In the future what other options do I have?

I am fairly certain my truck will take 4.2 qts in the rear unless I’ve misread my manual. Is the .2 the additive?

I saw the note on the first post that mentioned 2009 or later/ trd off road won’t need an additive but have also heard conflicting information. Would the manual state that I would need an additive if I do? Thanks in advance

 

I just wanted to add my thank you to this.

 

This procedure leaves out the replacement of the crush washers/gaskets. Any time you remove a plug on a oil containing assembly(oil pan, transfer case, diff, transmission...), you should always replace the washer on the plug.
The rear diff uses a steel crush washer P/N: 12157-10010.
The front diff uses a bronze one on the drain P/N: 90430-24003 or 90430-24017, and a steel one on the fill P/N: 12157-10010.
The Transfer case uses an Aluminum one on the fill and the drain plugs P/N: 90430-T0021 or 90430-18008.
The diffs use GL-5 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil and I've seen most people use the same in the transfer case without any problems. The reason most people use diff oil in the transfer case is that the recommended oil(P/N:08885-81080) is anywhere from $65 to $95 dollars a liter, assuming you can get it. However, if you're having a bout of OCD, you can use Ravenol Gear Oil MTF-3 75W P/N: J1C1003 which is an exact replacement for the Toyota oil that the manual recommends, and it's only about $19/liter. See here.
See here for more info on the transfer case fluid at Blauparts.

 

Good advice, but it has been posted previously...

 

Good advice is worth posting twice

And I’ll revise my statement on

$8 90430-24003 Front Differential Drain Plug Gasket

90430-24003, the copper gasket for the front diff drain plug. It can’t be that hard, it’s made of copper. When I last changed my front diff fluid I do remember it being indented slightly from the plug. Don’t know what the FSM says, but for my truck I consider it a one time use. The diff fluid likely only gets changed every 30-60k, so why not spend $5-$10 on a new gasket?

 

Late to the party here, but just did mine this weekend. 2015 V6 PreRunner. Really appreciate the write-up. It was very easy, only regret is procrastinating. 70K miles. The old fluid looked clean (fwiw), but there were some tiny shavings at the magnet. I replaced with the Royal Purple which already contains the additive. I let it drip until it wouldn't drip any more, and at the end of the third quart, it began to leak. Let it sit 20 minutes and settle, then attempted to add a bit more and it was still leaking, so I suppose that's full. I couldn't find the squishy bags (sort of a last minute decision, bought everything at O'Reilly) and didn't have a hand pump, so I lowered the spare tire and that gave me a lot more room to tilt the quart bottles.

Test drive felt great and there's no sound. I'll definitely keep this job on schedule from now on.

 

Can someone clarify something for me.

I have a 17 Sport RWD w LSD.

1st post states 2009 & up do not need LSD additive.

End of post he states: if you have a sport to add LSD additive lol.