Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

Will it hurt if I accidentally put in the LSD additive with 75-90 Redline in a locker rear end? I have a TRD OR.

 

Thanks for a good writeup. It's probably in the thread somewhere, but I didnt read the whole thing. Any suggestions on a good synthetic? I purchased my current taco recently, and am transitioning to full synthetic. Also slight clunk ever so often when going in and out of 4wd. Is that normal?

 

...I'm sorry but I didn't want to read through all 38 pages..I been wanting to change my differential fluid(bought the truck used in Jan. 09 @ 25k..now have 72k) so I went to all of my local auto store (o'reillys, baxter, napa) and all they have is

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 with limited slip(All Valvoline with that weight is what they carry). I have an 05 TRD OR 4x4...can I use this or is this a big no no?

They have a lot of synthetic 75w-90 in stock but I'm not sure if I can just drain the old fluids and fill it back up with the synthetic. Will that cause a problem if I went that route instead? Thanks in advance for the help/info.

Joe

 

Bump for tacoteacher and I.

 

Soooo much reading

 

Skimmed through it..found my answer..looks like I'm going synthetic. Thanks for the "How To" thread

 

First off I want to thank those that started this thread and all that have posted...alot of great information!!! I just got done reading the entire tread for the 2nd time. It seems there's been different fill techniques discussed throughout the thread. Some say put the exact amount called out, other's say fill till it starts to drip out from the fill hole. I think either way is fine as long as the level is within spec.
The amounts called out for the V6 4WD (1.1qt transfer case, 3.0qt rear diff, and 1.6qt front diff) are only "approximate" capacities according to the Chilton's manual. It says to add as necessary to bring to appropriate level which they say is at or near the bottom of the fill hole.

****
The below instructions say to check that the oil level is "within" 5mm (0 to 0.20 in.) of the bottom of the filler plug opening. As I understand this it can be at the botton of the opening (zero) or up to 5mm (or 0.20 inch) below. It seems to me it would be alot easier to just fill till it starts to come out of the fill hole rather than trying to measure the "approximate" amount called out making sure the truck is on a level surface while doing so.


INSPECT DIFFERENTIAL OIL
(a) Stop the vehicle on a level place.
(b) Remove the differential filler plug and gasket.
(c) Check that the oil level is within 5mm (0 to 0.20 in.)
of the bottom of the filler plug opening.
NOTICE:
• Excessively large or small quantities of oil
may cause problems.
• After replacing the oil, drive the vehicle and
check the oil level again.
HINT:
If necessary, fill the rear differential carrier assembly
with hypoid gear oil.
Oil grade:
Hypoid gear oil API GL-5
Recommended viscosity:
Above -18°C (0°F) SAE 90
Below -18°C (0°F) SAE 80W or 80W-90
Capacity:
Differential carrier assembly front:
1.45 to 1.55 litters
(1.54 to 1.64 US qts, 1.28 to 1.36 lmp. qts)
Rear differential carrier assembly:
2WD: 3.26 to 3.36 litters
(3.45 to 3.55 US qts, 2.87 to 2.95 lmp. qts)
Pre, 4WD: 2.75 to 2.85 litters
(2.91 to 3.01 US qts, 2.42 to 2.50 lmp. qts)
(d) Check for oil leakage if the oil level is low.
(e) Install the differential filler plug and a new gasket.
Torque: Front differential carrier assembly
39 N*m (398 kgf*cm, 29 ft.*lbf)
Rear differential carrier assembly
49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf)

 

So...did your guys drain plug fall into the jar/bucket as well or am I the only dumb ass that used my hand to take it off once loosen? This will be fun reaching in the jar

 

LOL, Happens all the time when I do an oil change. Don't remember the diff change - it only every 30,000.

 

Thanks for the write up. Did mine a couple of days ago. I dropped the nut in the waste jug too. Put in loucus synthetic. Can't tell a difference, but makes me feel better.

I do have a question though, my truck only has 12,000 miles and I had some metal shavings on the magnetic plug. Is that normal?

 

Lol. I do that pretty much every single oil change. I just pour the oil through a plastic sive so I don't have to reach in there to grab the plug.

 

I replaced the front, rear and transfer case yesterday and replaced thefront differential with Mobil 1. Now it bind’s up and won’t release fromafter being engaged in four wheel drive. When it does it has a loud clunk and I thoughtmy front end about fell out. Yes I double checked the fluid level just like the service manual suggests after driving. It took 1.6QT.

I think I'll be switching brands of oil for the front!

The rear I used Lucas + additive for the LSD and it's silky smooth again

Also did the transmission and replaced the manifolds and catalyticconverters too since it wouldn't pass smog check couple weeks ago. Big weekendfor maintenance at 87K miles! My OBD tester says she's good to go now & no more check eng light!

Oh- when you drop the plug either use a magnet or do like I do and always wearrubber gloves.....

 

What happens if you do neither? When I did mine, the plug fell into the stupid bucket, I just reached in with my bare hand and got it out. Of course the truck had been off for about 2-3 hours prior to the oil change.

 

To every one who put up this great info a big Thank You! I just want to add that I lowered+removed the spare tire and that helped alot. Also used a floor jack and lifted each side to the max. I got every drop out this way. Place it under each end of the rear axle with a piece of 2X4 for extra lift and allow ample time so you get it all out. I have reg cab 4X4 2.7 so I used mobil one 75-90 full synthetic 3.12 quarts no additives. Last note I got 20080 miles and the old oil still looked perfect could have gone way longer I think and I have towed lots of firewood 1cord+ each time. Next will be Front Diff. TC and Trans.

 

Thanks to Brianr and Chris4x4 for the how to. I got mine changed out this weekend. I had to spray the bolts with PB Blaster and tap them with a hammer to get the rust to break loose. Other than that everything went super smooth. I drained the diff. and then lifted both sides of the axle to make sure i got it all out. When i lifted the driver side more ran out. Just a small steady stream for a few minutes. when i lifted the passenger side. Nothing came out. I cleaned off the drain plug magnet and put on new crush washers just for peace of mind. Filled with 3 quarts of

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 Amsoil gear lube. Nothing cam out of the fill hole. Torqued the bolts to 36ft. lbs!
Can't really tell a difference in the way it drives, but i know the fresh oil is waaaay better than what was in it. The magnet had a lot of wear metal on it. I don't think any more could stick to it. Now on to the front diff. and transfer case.