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Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by brianr, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. Nov 3, 2013 at 3:58 AM
    #1481
    jcman01

    jcman01 Well-Known Member

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    You're referring to the crush washer? That part is not optional. You'll likely develop a leak with the expansion/contraction of the housing.

    You really need to bite the bullet and chalk this one up as a learning experience. Go to the dealer and purchase 2 new washers (drain and fill ports) for about $2 each. Then drain the lube. Call it an expensive flushing of the diff :)

    Some people re-use the crush washer, but you're supposed to replace them. The reason you torque is to properly crush and seal the drain plug against the crush washer.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  2. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:17 AM
    #1482
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    No. I don't think this is a crush washer. There was not a crush washer on there. This is what I'm looking at.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:31 AM
    #1483
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    Thats the crush washer. You need to put it back on or replace it with a new one. Tip: Never let the plug fall into the bucket. I dont recall off hand which way the washer goes so i hold it until i clean it up and see which way it goes on the plug before sliding it off. I have never installed a new one and never a leak.
     
  4. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:34 AM
    #1484
    LaborisAmust2

    LaborisAmust2 Wtaco42

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    Thanks again this was a great right up did mine last week bought some attachment for the quart bottles that had a clear plastic tube 3 ft or so long and was able turn the oil upside down in the wheel well right side of spare tire seemed to go faster with know mess. Walmart quart bottle attachment 3 or 4 $. Kendall 75-80w gear oil compatible with LSD rears. Thanks again LaborisAMust2.
     
  5. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:35 AM
    #1485
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Well son of a b****

    I wonder how little I can spill while trying to get that thing back on?
     
  6. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:37 AM
    #1486
    MQQSE

    MQQSE Chief Pal Guy, GOB

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    Just a thought...but if you put it up high enough and use a funnel to bottle or just a clean catch can of some sort, you could probably pump the oil right back in. :notsure:
     
  7. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:42 AM
    #1487
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I could do that. I've got some extra oil left over too. I'd just have to buy a new pump. I bought a brand new pump yesterday and the thing broke after like 5 pumps. I had to hold the pieces together while pumping...

    Maybe the oil won't come out as fast if I leave the fill plug on while I get the washer back on there.
     
  8. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:55 AM
    #1488
    MQQSE

    MQQSE Chief Pal Guy, GOB

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    Bummer ... surprised mine has lasted thru ... hmmm ... 2 complete driveline fluid changes now. If you put it up high on jack stands or ramps and move quick (have that washer ready, plug out washer on, plug back in) you'll probably only have to put back a quart or less. But have the right clothes on ... cause there's bound to be some splash. Good luck and :popcorn: we'll be waiting to hear how it goes. ;)
     
  9. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:12 AM
    #1489
    TACO TX

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    I use the marine lower unit pump from Wal-mart and it has done the truck and numerous lower unit changes on my boat. Still going strong. Somebody else had the vato zone one break also.
     
  10. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:24 AM
    #1490
    quantum

    quantum Well-Known Member

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  11. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:28 AM
    #1491
    Bogg

    Bogg Well-Known Member

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  12. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:54 AM
    #1492
    TACO TX

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  13. Nov 3, 2013 at 7:01 AM
    #1493
    quantum

    quantum Well-Known Member

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    cool, thanks
     
  14. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:06 AM
    #1494
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    I got the crush washer back on there and barely lost an ounce or two. It wasn't so bad.

    And I haven't read this whole thread. But I have a 05-08 mechanical LSD and I asked the dealer what they used in them. He sold me this:

    [​IMG]

    Synthetic oil and friction modifier. But he swore by the stuff. I'll update if I ever have an problems with it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  15. Nov 3, 2013 at 4:50 PM
    #1495
    JcTacoma

    JcTacoma Active Member

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    Good write up. So today my plan was to drain and fill my rear differential but everything came to a halt when I couldn't brake loose the fill plug. Anyone have this problem? Should I try a braker bar or heat the plug or just try it after a day of driving ?
     
  16. Nov 3, 2013 at 4:58 PM
    #1496
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    Breaker bar :thumbsup:
     
  17. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM
    #1497
    JcTacoma

    JcTacoma Active Member

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    Cool thanks, and it's counter clockwise right? Just want to make sure
     
  18. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #1498
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    Yup. Righty tighty, lefty loosey :D

    Best to use a 6 pt socket, not a 12 pt
     
  19. Nov 4, 2013 at 12:49 AM
    #1499
    JcTacoma

    JcTacoma Active Member

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    6 point 24mm is what I'm using. But it seems a bit loose like I should try a 23mm or 15/16? I don't want to strip either plug.
     
  20. Nov 5, 2013 at 3:56 AM
    #1500
    jcman01

    jcman01 Well-Known Member

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    I used a 1/2-drive 6-point 24mm socket. Didn't have much of a problem breaking it loose. You'll be fine with 24mm/6-point.
     
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