Changing distributor on 4cyl

Yea I know it’s hard to believe. What happened basically is I brought them the distributor and had them install it I watched and everything. As soon as he put it on and I started it the po336 showed up. So I’m assuming that the timing is off. He checked the timing but possibly he wasn’t checking right. Ik it’s sad because it ran perfect and fine and now it just starts and runs for 6 secs then dies also replaced the sensor as well so I don’t think it’s the sensor or wire to it I think the timing is off setting it off. I couldn’t get the code to clear it was just solid wouldn’t get off the dash



update: also their was wire that was slightly frad so they put a new clip on possibly mixed the wires and fried the ecm?

 

The dying is because the the ECU is setting the CPS code; you need to find out WHY it's setting a CPS code. Honestly, this sounds to me like someone accidentally forgot to connect a harness, or damaged a wire or something like that. Again, grab the specs for the sensor and your DVOM and check it out.

 

the shop replaced the clip for the distributor and when we was wiring the clip he mixed a wire I believe. Could that fry a ecm

 

I suppose it could it could if he somehow managed to get send 12v to a 5v control line or something, but again, it seems a stretch. I would find it a LOT more likely that they f***ed up the wiring, cold solder joint, or some such. If they did fry it, again, they're on the hook for making it right, and honestly, I would demand that you be allowed to take it somewhere else (Dealership) and they cover it. What happens if you get a new ECU and they brick that by buggering the re-program?

 

Yea really in an shitty situation. If I go Toyota they will want me to get oem everything.

 

I believe they set the timing on the exhaust not the intake could that cause something?

 

Yea I can’t see it though it won’t open for me. But I’m not sure exactly what he did I saw him get the number 1 cylinder top dead center then the timing from the crank below

 

Yea I’ll try and load it. I’m worried it’s to late and the ecm might be crap. Also when the distributor was on their wasn’t much room for it to turn so how could it be so off?

 

No he did not.

 

Honestly I think he clearly didn’t know what he was doing I’ve had him do my oil leaks and such he did great but this one is far the worst. So do you think it’s just the timing is off and needs to be corrected? And that’s tripping the sensor


Update: also he tried that while I was turning it on he moved the distributor and it wasn’t changing anything

 

Well I’m gonna take it to the shop I should of Took it the first place. Thanks for all the help

 

You are almost certainly 1 tooth off when the distributor was installed!

The computer looks at the crank position sensor signal and the cam position sensor signal. If they don't match up then it throws a code. The cam position sensor is in the distributor on the 1996 4-cylinders. That's why installing the distributor 1 tooth off will mess up the timing of the cam position signal.

Every car that is OBD2 (1996+) will not have a user adjustable ignition spark timing like on older cars where you could turn the distributor to change the base timing. This is why turning the distributor with the mechanic did nothing. The computer uses the crank and cam sensor signals to do all the timing.

You almost certainly DID NOT damage the computer. The spark signal from the computer goes through the igniter before going to the distributor.

If the mechanic has an old school timing light it will show that the ignition timing is off and you might be able to tell which way the gear was off 1 tooth. You might be able to read the ignition timing using an OBD2 reader and watching the liver data while it's running, but if it shuts down after a few second you may not be able to see it quick enough.

Like someone else mentioned, the distributor gear and the gear it meshes with are beveled and it's easy to mesh 1 tooth off because the gear spins a little as you insert the distributor. There is a mark near the gear that you need to line up as you install the distributor. I forget if it need to be pointing up. Look in the repair manual.

The valve timing is something (almost) entirely different from the ignition spark timing. If the camshafts haven't been removed and reinstalled the valve timing will not be off.

 

This is so helpful thanks!!!! Okay ill see about that tomorrow I didn’t know it was in the distributor

 

So I should first try moving the teeth by 1? So is the new distributor I have okay? It’s just not timed correctly

 

Mentioned it in the beginning of the thread to check timing.

Refer to figure 4

 

You shouldn’t have to take of the valve cover to get the distributor on tho? I thought valve timing was separate Since it doesn’t change

 

I edited this. I meant to say computer looks at crank and cam sensor and compares them.

Yes, when they changed to coil packs in 1997 there was a separate cam sensor mounted on the side between 2 & 3 cylinders on intake side, and the distributor hole was blocked off with a plate.

Correct, just follow the directions for "2. Install Distributor" posted above. Specifically, study step 2.(b) Align the protrusion of the distributor housing with the groove on the driven gear. And look at the illustration.

Even then it might go in a tooth off.

Good luck!

 

P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance

DTC Detecting Condition:
Deviation in crankshaft position sensor signal and camshaft position sensor signal

Trouble Area:
Valve timing
Distributor installation
ECM

Since you didn't mess with the valve timing or camshafts this points to a problem with your distributor installation.

The repair manual also says, "If the ECM records the DTC P0336, it operates the fail safe function, stopping the fuel injection." And this explains why the engine stops after a few seconds. The computer thinks the engine could be damaged if it continues to run, so it cuts the fuel off.

 

@Allex95

Sorry if you already answered either of these:

Are you sure you have the correct distributor and its functional? I have read on TW that the distributors for the 2.7L are not so interchangeable, especially the first few years. I believe the 95.5 one in particular may be unique.

Also, I have had one fail on a 95.5 and need replacing. There is a coil of sorts inside the distributor that went bad. Did you get a new part or was it used? Maybe the distributor itself is no good. I will say when it failed the engine would not fire at all, so maybe not the coil but possibly some other part of the distributor...? Are you getting fire at the correct time for each cylinder?

 

Well it was fine until they replaced the wire on the clip to the disturber and then it started to misfire. Before they tried to fix the wire clip for the distributor it would start and die