Changing my differential fluid.

Ok, so you think I should probably do

$28 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 all the way around huh? Checked out my local AutoZone and getting 6 qts. will only cost $55.00. Dealer is such a rip off. I should of checked for that hand pump while I was there. Thanks for the input.

 

oh yeah, for simple stuff like this, definitely DIY and save a bundle of cash! i've been running 75w90 in my front and rear diffs for 2 years without one problem.

 

That is good to hear, I want to get the fuel filter done as well but it looks like such a pain. Probably will bring it in for that lol. Thanks again for the help

 

Check out this link. Look at page 6 and page 11 in particular.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...K674G20gg&sig2=xuGujw4ZhqJgGF8ajHFxJg&cad=rja

 

Amsoil 75W90 in mine. But whatever you do use, make sure it IS GL-4. Do not use GL-4/5 or GL-5 due to the metal corrosion problem. This is what I have read and been told by a local mechanic.

 

I did my rear diff a few weeks ago. I used Mobil 1 full syn 75w90. I don't know how old the fluid that was in it is (I have had the truck since 111K, and its now on 175K) and the fluid wasn't too dirty, but the new fluid made the rear end nice and quiet (had some mild chatter).

Although everything I have read says 2.8qts for the rear it only took 2 qts....and I rechecked the fluid level...idk.

About to do the front tomorrow.

I put amsoil severe gear in the Tranny and the T-Case and was very, very happy with the amsoil...but my usual shop was out of the Amsoil and I was too impatient to wait for it to get back in stock so I just bought mobil 1. Will probably use amsoil the next change just because that is what I have always used and because of the reputation.

 

sta-lube from napa

 

TL, DR

 

It says;

AMSOIL Severe Gear

$28 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 surpasses all the others by a large margin. Of course it was an amsoil testing lab.

Instead of page 11 I should of referred you to page 19 where the overall scores were. Although I probably shouldn't have bothered because I doubt that anyone runs their vehicles that hard that they need to have an oil that passes all these test. I just thought it was interesting.

Mobil 1 sythetic 75W-90 was second overall.

Royal Purple Max-gear 75w-30, Mopar synthetic 75w-90 with Mopar LS additive and Lucas 75/90 Synthetic were the bottom three.

 

You can skimp a little on the rated capacities... they must fill them on their side at the factory cause there's no way to get the capacity in there. I ended up with close to 2 quarts left over on mine (1 gl-5 for the rear diff and 1 of gl-4 for the 5 speed). I also bought a siphon pump that was absolutely worthless for the oil. I ended up ripping the plastic tubes off it and running one end into the filler hole on the transmission (not an issue as I'm assuming you're auto but space may be cramped on the t-case too) and then running the tube up over the frame and out the top of the drivers wheel well. I found this much easier that trying to maneuver the squeeze bottle in such close quarters.

 

I found it much easier to take my shifter off.




To anybody..I've always just run Walmart gear oil...gear oil is gear oil..it lubes shit so friction doesn't kill it. That's all.

 

I agree with this portion of your statement, but not all oil products "lube shit" or withstand the stress of use equally well. That's why some of us use products a little better than "Walmart gear oil" to ensure a longer life for our "shit".

 

I've never noticed unusual wear using anything that is "off brand".

Most of that shit is made at the same factory/refinery anyway and just branded under different names. Same thing with tires...and alot of other products in our world.



To each his own though man

 

I'll drink to that!

 

I can hardly keep up with all this technical mumbo jumbo. Besides, I heard Stool-Eze can be beat for lubing shit.

 

We have a Forum Lover on hand
^

 

In 1976 I had a '54 GMC pick-up. The rear carrier bearing went out of the enclosed drive-line. I stopped at a little restaurant/gas station/garage near my house owned by Mr. Pink and his wife. A very nice old couple. Great hamburgers too.

Mr. Pink told me to pick up a bearing and bring the truck over and he would help me change out the bearing. I remember us making a gasket out of a playboy center fold. He said it was the correct thickness to keep the ring and pinion spacing and any paper with photographs on both sides would make a gasket that wouldn't leak. The gasket thickness was the adjustment for the ring and pinion. (No, I don't remember her name. Probably June of '76 though.)

When we opened up the rear differential this thick black stuff that looked a lot like tar came out. Mr Pink was a little surprised and said that it was the original oil from the factory. He said it was called "marine grease" also and they still used it in Alaska on crab and salmon boats where peoples lives depended on keeping things running. I guess it could have been in there for 22 years, maybe.

We had a shoe shop in town that sold a water proofing for our caulk boot called something like "Loggers World Wax". It looked and smelled like the same stuff that was in the rear of my truck and I was told it was some kind of marine grease. It worked pretty good for water-proofing boots. The stuff was so sticky you just painted it on and it would last about 4 days to a weeks or longer in better weather.

I have driven a lot of miles over the years and only changed the gear oil when I worked on the rear end. Hundreds of thousands of miles and very few problems. Broken spider gears in a 64 Ranchero and some wheel bearing replacements here and there. Spun a bearing in the axle housing of a '73 Dodge pick-up too but that was typical of that model.

I was a bit surprised when I was looking through the Haynes motor manual about gear lube and it said you were supposed to change the stuff.

I was having trouble shifting my transmission in the Toyota I just bought so I got on line and read what people where saying about theirs. A lot of people said to make sure you didn't have GL 5 oil, so I changed to Sta-lube GL 4. It made a little difference and after more reading and about 1000 miles I change to Redline WT 90 and it made a big difference in how it shifts. Much better.

I was reading about amsoil severe gear being able to go 500,000 between oil changes . Sounds like my kind of oil and I liked the synthetic in the transmission so I am going to change to Amsoil. More because it sounds like I might increase my MPG a hair and the amsoil is supposed to be better at preventing wear.

It sounds to me like we have come full circle. Now I just have to see how good Amsoil is for water-proofing boots.

 

ROFL!

I made the drivetrain switch (to Amsoil) several months ago, and am very happy with it - smoother shifting and switching in & out of 4WD. When I changed my engine oil to it last winter, I noticed the truck took longer to warm up. (While it didn't seem like a "plus" during winter months, it was a pretty good indication of reduced internal friction.)

 

Maybe this needs its own thread, but I changed all my fluids about a month ago; 2007 Tacoma, 4x4. Used

$28 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90, Valvoline Synthetic on all 4 "boxes". I noticed last weekend that anytime I'd park on a slope, front end down, when I'd try to go, it was like the parking brake was on. Putting it in reverse and then back to 1st or engaging 4WD would make it go. But the rear tires would not spin.

Any ideas? It otherwise runs fine and there's no odd noises.