Changing oil filter housing from hard plastic to metal

So when mine got stuck and broke during removal, I should have just replaced it with another plastic one? This isn’t about superior plastic engineering. It’s one of many cost saving measures in this truck. If people want to put higher quality parts back in their truck, more power to them.

 

Interested in doing this as well. Fumoto has 5 different versions on their website. Anyone able to provide part numbers for everything I'll need?

 

@dangeroso

Speaking from experience weighs heavy on this topic--thank you for telling your story.

The emphatic replies regarding USE of the plastic housing (it's removal procedures/techniques) and sufficiency in its application; there is no need to use aluminum.

My Sport will be getting the aluminum housing on the next oil change...making sure there are no leaks.

 

True, and I don't doubt that it does meet all requirements for strength and such for normal application. If all things go as planned, it should work fine. But many have observe sticking, despite torqueing to spec.

The benefit of upgrading to aluminum is that it will withstand additional force, in the event that it may be needed to remove something. Reminds me of this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/can’t-remove-wheels-what-now.803511/

 

@dangeroso

So, were you talking about the Aluminum sticking...or the Plastic one?

In my past experiences with spin on oil filters, I would always hand tighten the new filter snugly and it would not leak.

On the next oil change, I would use the oil filter wrench to remove it with no gorilla gripping required.

This housing unit isn't a terrible design and takes some getting use to.

 

I was talking about the plastic one sticking, but it could happen with either. I am careful not to overtighten as well, but it does sometimes require a bit of force to remove.

For what it's worth, my issue with the plastic one was on my very first oil change at home. I had done the 2 free dealership service oil changes, and could not remove the plastic housing without breaking it.

 

I did exactly one (1) 'Free' oil change at my local dealership and they managed to strip 2 of the bolts/nuts holding the skid plate, so I do all oil changes myself now.
I think the housings are actually pretty tough - the Toyota engineers are actually quite good, mechanical geniuses on this forum notwithstanding.
Nonetheless, I did buy a spare composite housing just in case the stock housing cracks.

 

Nothing wrong with the hard composite housing. Its the dumb a** techs that crank them tight like a lug nut, or use an improper tool to remove them.

 

I’ve had the aluminum housing come stock in two cars: IS 250 and GS 350. The plastic came stock in my GX 460. I searched and searched for an answer. The best one I found on some GX enthusiast site. They noted having a skid plate would protect the housing on the GX much better than in a car. Since the IS and GS are “upscale” Corolla/Camry (I know they’re not the same cars) they are fitted with the “better” pricier part. Presumably since the GX has metal skids the plastic housing was used stock, I guess the same for the taco. I just went ahead and got an aluminum one for the GX and held onto the plastic one for “just in case.” I don’t see any downside to getting the aluminum one. Haven’t had any problems in 4 years. I assume plastic vs aluminum is a cost savings issue to Toyota corp than anything else.

 

Damn, there is a ton of misinformation in this thread. First of all not sure why iron was mentioned but both the engine block side of the housing and the cup are aluminum so dissimilar metals are not an issue.

Second, both have their benefits and downsides as far as durability. The plastic is rigid but if over-tightened it will break. As long as it's just snugged up it's okay it also has a little clip that helps keep it from backing off. The clip is on the passenger side of the housing on the engine block side. The aluminum housing is friendly if you have a thing for overtightening the hell out of your filter housing it won't break as easily but it will get stuck on the truck. It's also really bad if you are a knuckle dragger and manage to cross-thread it. On the plus side, the aluminum won't get brittle over time with age and heat cycles.

I've had both on my truck. I had the plastic one for the last 140k miles I switched to the aluminum because I was bored and wanted to try it. Plus I like the warm fuzzy feeling knowing it's metal and not plastic.

TLDR: Both work fine both have advantages and disadvantages. If you take your truck to quick lube places or DIY and don't have an IQ above 20 stick with the plastic and carry a spare they are harder to damage the more expensive components on the truck, (oil filter housing block side) if installed incorrectly, (cross thread/over torque).

 

Well, some here (including me) might successfully argue that you spent money on something you didn't really need. That could be viewed as a downside, right?

 

Bingo!

 

@henryp

Honestly, it all comes down to preference and money...well, maybe a bit of wannabe sophistication. lol

For those who haven't had the experience with the plastic housing breaking, (and even then, it's replace with plastic) the thought-process is replace with the same.

Not knocking that mentality BUT I'm not knocking getting the Aluminum Housing as seen on this thread. (Not just because I bought one)

It's an individual choice that shouldn't require backlashing for making such a decision.

 

Hmm, so it's something we don't need? Sounds like the TW seal of approval.

 

Send it!

 

Lol, I guess it is! Pretty much the mic drop moment for this thread. Mods, shut her down!

 

Why not go off on which is the correct oil to use.

 

no. I have changed the oil in three Toyotas with the "plastic" canister over the past 16 years....between 50 and 60 oil changes with no issues at all. YMMV.

 

I got the Alluminum to replace the Composite in my Wife's Rav4 back in 2016. The Rav4, being such a new to me car, had me on the Rav4 Forum.
Lo and behold one of the first threads I read was about needing to replace the "cheap" plastic with the much better Alluminum.
After I did my first Oil change on the new Rav4, cursing the whole time because of this new fangled cartridge set up, I realized that the Plastic was just fine. I then just began swapping them out on subsequent oil changes.
Fast forward to my new Tacoma and there is the same looking plastic canister. Quick search showed the same part number for the Rav4, Tacoma, and a crap load of other Toyotas and Lexus vehicles.
I now have three canisters in rotation. Two Composite and one Alluminum. Pull one off, replace with the already cleaned and loaded with new rings and filter element one from the previous oil change. When I take one off, I clean it, load it, and then store in a plastic zip lock ready to go. Smear of oil on the O ring and screw it in.
The torque for both style canisters is 25 N.M. or just over 18 Foot Pounds.
Long handled 3/8th drive is what I use now. Snug it until it stops, that's all it needs. 18 Ft Lbs is not much. Even with me doing my oil changes, I'm always a little surprised how much torque I need to remove either one of them. It is always more than 18 ft Lbs but I never have had an issue. I guarantee the issues are from over tightening or cross threading.
Two things I have noticed, which are very minor. The plug-in plastic piece used to drain the filter always hangs up on the metal canister. I have to pop it out with pliers. The filter wrench comes off the metal housing easier than it does on the plastic housing. Neither of those two are an issue.


Looking up, locking clip is visible about 9 o'clock.



The only difference, besides the obvious construction material, is the Composite has 3 ridges on one side, one on the other where the metal has one on each side. Barely visible on left side of black canister.


New element, old element with about 6,000 miles on it. A shot of the filter drain plug, you can see on the metal canister where the small "O" Ring goes.

I usually do around 5,000 between changes. Was on a trip so was closer to 6. Filter is very clean between the pleats. On my first change, about 2500 there were some very fine metal flakes, almost like powder. Have not seen anymore metal in the last 4 changes.
The four bolts are from the stock skid on my O.R. I always put just a dab of never seize on them before reinstalling.

P.S. I still cuss this set up..

 

Tons of great info here. A few varied opinions.
Use what you like. Buy the alloy housing if you like.
I love upgrades, maybe I’ll get one at some point.

Take care of the Toyota, it will take care of you