Changing wheel studs

So I rented the ball joint separator, used mild scotch bright to loosen corrosion in bolt holes, cut/welded a few washers together to assure more perpendicular contact on the tool, froze the studs, applied anti seize and they're going in easy as pie. Using an impact momentarily do make sure it's seated fully. Now that I have the process down, it takes less than a couple minutes to do one of them.

Spoke to an aerospace engineer about using grease or anti seize in these situations and he confirmed the interference being sufficient enough it wont be a problem. However, he did suggest using anti seize rather than a grease because apparently certain greases can have a mild acidity and when it comes to non moving parts, that acidity could aid corrosion. He did mention that it would probably be negligible but the potential is there. Just thought that was interesting and worth mentioning.

 

Good god you guys over think things.. no need to use the uggadugga on everything. Breaker bar and a nut that an old lug nut can rotate against and go to town. When it stops drawing in, loosen and repeat. Use the elasticity of the lug to your advantage. Took me maybe 5 minutes the last time I did one and that included stopping for a sip of an adult beverage.

 

Can someone help me verify the Dorman number for 2013 base 2wd wheel studs ..Oriellys is about 4 miles like to get it right first time..long walk if I don't
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Old thread... Retreat.