Charcoal canister permanent Removal?

Looks like the corvette guys figured out how to remove it without any problems.

but they are not tricking the sensor, they have the ability to turn off the specific codes for that sensor.

Can we do this???

if I can turn off P043E code so my CEL stays off, then I can leave the damn canister alone.

 

These and other forums have helped a lot of us fix stupid shit on our cars/trucks/bikes. No Im not pulling my own transmission apart to replace the shoddy 3rd gear syncro that Toyota wont recognize.

but because of you all I was able to save 350 bucks in labor replacing the shitty broken stock leaf springs myself.

with everything getting more expensive and a lot of us having to take jobs for less pay you/I/we/us are really able to save ourselves hundreds actually probably thousands

look at this one repair in this case. including all parts, travel, labor, diagnostics etc. this would be over 500$ at the dealer and a few smaller shops don't even want to mess with it being Toyota only parts.

so thanks

 

when the weather lets me, I will crawl under there and look again to see if there would be room for that.

 

i haven't looked at the canister or how it is plumbed but is it possible to extend the vent hose from the filler tube so that the fuel would have to travel upward which would prevent it from getting to the canister while still allowing the fuel vapors to reach it. Just thinking out loud.

 

The fuel tank has a float valve according to the link posted that would be a very likely source of a reoccuring damage to the canister assy from fuel flooding.Sad but maybe only available in a tank assy.Does your truck still have any emmisions warranty remaining?

 

I wondered the same thing early on...filling out your profile would help keep the 'smart asses' at bay...

 

Should have looked through the whole post first. I see how it's plumbed now thanks. Still wonder if changing how the lines are routed or maybe relocating the canister could fix this problem.

 

I fixed your message.

 

Lulz, probably has a ferd.


I thought there was a video of some guy who had installed a 1 gal gas can and was having the fumes vent into the TB and it was still running. Couldn't we do the same and run the vent line back into the intake? It would also help to clean out our I take I think?

 

^^^^^^^

This.

 

How do you figure? If I'm understanding correctly, you replaced the canister once already, did the old one have liquid fuel in it? Or perhaps it was replaced unnecessarily due to another fault with the EVAP system, that still exists?

I've had my truck on plenty of butt-puckering inclines with a full or nearly full tank, and even top of the tank a bit if I'm driving enough to burn off the additional fuel before thermal expansion could become an issue, and never had any EVAP troubles. This makes me think there is more to the story in your case.

 

It didn't need fixing. 'Smart assets' was OP's term.

 

I didn't do it the first time, The dealer (not under warranty) replaced it, blamed me, said I must be overfilling the tank (I am not toping it off)

told me liquid fuel was ruining it.

now that I look under there, it does not look like a new canister...

 

That's what I did with the crank case breather (was spitting oil into intake)

I put an 18in hose that rises taller then loops back down and into the air box in place of the stock 6in hose that was not taller than the airbox.

bam, no more oil in the airbox

 

Sorry to dig up an old post, but this is a pressing issue for me. The county in NC I live in does an OBD2 scan and any codes fail. Mine has been failing for a couple years and a few days before I reset and have thus far made it through the check. Absolutely hate leaving the CEL illuminated since real codes can hide behind the Evap code. Not interested in going down the canister path due to cost and uncertainty if that is truly culprit. Hard for me to dump cash on something like this since it has no real performance benefits nor impacts. Like to understand the operation of system better. Like for instance when the test occurs in time,like every so many minutes of engine operation? Has anyone successfully deleted the Evan system from the 3.4v6? Any info is appreciated.

 

I still haven't come up with a permanent fix. i noticed that it does it if i go off road in cold weather

 

Ya you could run the tank vent to the intake but you'd have to do it right. Also, you probably would not pass emissions.
My first car had an evap system that routed the tank fumes to the valve cover with a good grommet seal. The vapors would collect under the valve cover, and when the engine was fired, the vapors would be sucked through the PVC into the intake and burned. So it functioned just like a charcoal canister but more simple.
Had a nasty time getting that car smogged because all the techs looked for a charcoal canister, which the car did not have. I can't count how many smog techs I've referred to the BAR. Some don't even know what a federal car is.

 

Not trying to sound like a wet blanket but there isnt really any way around the system without a permanent CEL. It performs its own leak tests and can detect a loss of vacuum/pressure down to a tiny pinhole anywhere in the system. It also watches the rate of flow during a purge and will set coresponding codes if it doesn't see enough vapor moving from the canister to the intake manifold.

Best advice for protecting the evap canister is dont overfill the tank. There needs to be a space for air at the top of the tank. Once the canister gets saturated with liquid fuel it will need to be replaced

@Rosbrughjb it usually does a purge within a couple mins on cold startup. Often times you can hear a quiet tapping sound from the purge valve on the drivers side of the intake. As far as leak testing goes, that can happen whenever it decides to do a test. Sometimes they pcm will wake up in the middle of the night, the vacuum pump under the truck will turn on and draw some vacuum on the system. Then it sits back and waits to see if the vacuum bleeds off

 

Read through our complaints, we are not over filling our tanks. This is some sort of design flaw.

Only permanent fix I've found is certain vehicles the code can be blocked. Our computer cant do that.

 

Still fighting this one. Been studying the crap out of the system in a way to get around it. I absolutely hate the system and I’m sure mine is fubar since the P.O. beat the snot out of the truck before I got ahold of it. All the hoses are flaking and cracking and I have no idea where the issue is. I have come to several options from trying to hack the ecm to using an arduino to fake it to send the ecm the signal it needs to see. Recently, I read an article the ecm looks for the IAT to be the same as the ECT in order to initiate the test. Typically this would be at engine start up when they would be the same. Anyone know if this is true and if so could an offset be used (like a resistor across the leads) so the ecm wont call for the test long enough to pass the damn emissions test.
@b_r_o :: are you certain on first gen 3.4 eqiuped taco there is an actual vac pump? I have not seen any reference to a pump. All the schematics I have found show vacuum is generated by intake just past throttle body. Maybe I am missing something?
Anyone get past this? Every time I reset and readiness is set and go to take it for inspection, damn light comes back on that morning. Super frustrating.