Charlotte, NC area: hate on OP, houses, boats & hoes

ZOMFG!!!

 

What is a pR0 doing at Starbucks? That’s like seeing Bigfoot in the wild.

 

I'm planning to call them for a quote but off hand, can anyone tell me what ECGS charges for gears installed?

 

it was around $2600 last year quoted for gears and install, reusing factory locker.

 

Supposedly 529s are super tough to get right now, ymmv

 

I'd just be going with 4.10's 2nd gen don't need no 5.29s

 

That was my original thought as well, but everyone that I have talked to has said to go at least 4.56 to make it worth the time and money. Not a significant enough difference between 3.73 and 4.10. I vaguely remember something about needing to get a 4cyl front diff to get a front 4.10 gear too....that has probably changed since then though.

 

Pshhh dirty7s do

@JimboAnz had 4.56s on 33s that seems to be good or 4.30s

 

Manual tho. And not planning to go bigger than 33's.

 

still.

 

4.10's oughta be good or 4.30s

 

Am I doing math wrong or something?

 

@CowboyTaco 3.73 X 1.082 = 4.036. So even 4.10 is a little low, but we will round up for added weight on the truck and additional rotating mass.

And 6th gear in the manual is lower than 5th in the auto(.79 vs .82 if I remember right) So I’m afraid if I go lower than 4.10’s I’ll be screaming on the interstate.

 

.03 in reality isn't a whole lot

in case people want a quick and dirty formula this gets you pretty damn close

New tire size x old gear ratio = new gear ratio.
old tire size

(33x3.73)/30.5 = 4.03 so in your case 4.10s would be right at stock if you wanted a little overgear 4.30s. I'd probably recc the 4.30s just so that you get a little more pep on the city driving and bring back the feeling of a little more power with the little bit of added weight you have. IF you ever do haul the boats or anything the 4.30 would be tits!

The reason why I say .03 isn't really a whole lot is the fact you can run a 5.38 rear (dana 60) gear ratio and 5.29 front (stock diff)cand be ok in 4wd as long as you aren't bombing the deserts doing 60+ mph. That gear split doesn't cause any issues unless you're at higher speeds.

 

First part makes sense.

The idea of mismatching front and rear makes me squeamish.

 

Guys do it a lot. As long as it's not a huge split and you're not bombing down the road or something you're good. It happens from the lack of gear selection of certain diffs. If you get down and go through and do all the calculations for RPM for the different ratios at certain speeds my example split doesn't get hairy until like 40. Slow crawl or putt putt 15 mph offroad you're golden.

 

You've clearly dug into it more than I have recently. I just remember seeing debates on whether 4.56 or 4.88 was better in the 2nd gen and the consensus seemed to be that 4.56 if you did a lot of highway driving or 4.88 if you had a bunch of constant weight or never saw the highway.

I originally wanted a 4.10 when I was researching gears and was told by multiple trusted sources (not just keyboard commandos like myself) that if I was going to spend the money on gears that I needed to make a significant enough change to make it worth the cost.

Obviously MT vs AT makes a difference, but I can't believe it makes THAT much difference. Also, mismatching gears makes my head hurt too. I wouldn't do it unless there was no other way. If you go 4.10, please tag me or PM me a link so that I can read the first hand experience. I find that much more valuable than what I'm able to offer at this time.

 

You can go on their website, build your third member and price it out

 

The minimal change between 3.73 and 4.10 is what is giving me pause to begin with. Is it worth it being the question. I've preached in the past about how we should keep our trucks as light weight as possible though and that is how I built my truck. I'm also not a hard core offroad my any metric. So we will see, juice may not be worth the squeeze. $2600 installed is more than I'd have guessed.