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Cheap 4X4 Switch Illumination - Step By Step Write-up

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Scooter, Jan 9, 2010.

  1. Jan 9, 2010 at 11:10 PM
    #1
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    Okay, as promised, here is a detailed step by step of how I got my 4X4 switch illumunated.

    The Disclaimer: This is a write-up of what I did. If you try this on your own truck, I cannot take any responsibility for any damage you may incurr. If your try this mod, you do so at your own risk.

    First, I would like to thank rcbs204 for the idea of making a circuit board using LEDs. I would have never thought a circuit board could fit in the switch housing.

    For those of you who do not want to tackle this yourself, rcbs204 will be selling an easy to install kit once his through R & D is complete. Click on this link for more info.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/68173-rcbs204-4x4-illuminated-switch.html


    For those of you who like the challenge of doing it yourself, here's what you'll need:

    1) Copper Clad Board (To make the circuit board)

    CopperCladBoard.jpg

    2) Copper Etchant (Aluminum Persulphate)

    Etchant.jpg

    3) Etch Resistant Pen

    Pen.jpg

    4) 6 LEDs I used the following.
    Type - NTE Part No. 30033
    Size - 3mm T1
    Colour - Clear Orange
    Brightness - 100 MCD (I Think)
    Forward Voltage (VF) - 2.6V
    Forward Current (IF) - 25mA
    Viewing Angle - 10 degrees (A wider angle would be preferable)
    5) Resistor - 470 Ohm
    6) 2 female crimp on connectors - Molex 16-02-0103 (I could not find these connectors locally, so I used Molex 39-00-0039 and used a dremel tool to make them fit.)
    7) 2" OD hole saw

    HoleSaw.jpg

    8) 0.033" drill bit
    9) Tapered Drill Bit (To enlarge centre hole)

    TaperedBit.jpg

    10) Drill (Preferably a drill press)
    11) Small plastic container
    12) Solder
    13) Soldering Iron
    14) 22 Ga wire
    15) 18 Ga Wire
    16) Wire Cutter
    17) Wire Stripper
    18) Crimping Tool or Pliers
    19) Neoprine weatherstripping. (You can probably use something else, but it worked for me.)

    Weatherstripping.jpg

    20) File

    Step 1:
    Use 2" hole saw to cut out a circle from the copper Clad Board.

    1stRoundCut.jpg

    You will end up with a 45.7 mm (1.8") circle which will fit inside the 4X4 switch. Some filing may be required.

    Use the tapered drill bit to enlarge the center hole to 18 mm (0.7").

    CentreEnlarged.jpg

    I made the centre hole too small and ended up grinding it bigger with a Dremel tool. The centre diameter must be large enough to clear the switch shaft.

    Step 2:

    Cut the circular circuit board in half.

    I used a utility knife to cut the circular board in half. This took a bit of work. I'm sure a fine toothed saw would have been quicker, but I wanted a really clean cut.

    TwoHalves.jpg

    Step 3:

    File two notches into the round edge of the circuit board.

    Notched.jpg

    The notch on the left is approximately 17 mm up from the flat edge, and the notch on the right is approximately 13 mm up from the flat edge. You can adjust these measurements to suit. The notches are there to clear two ribs inside the switch housing. You will be able to see the ribs in a picture below.

    Step 4: Draw the circuit using the etch resistant pen.

    Drawn.jpg

    The circuit is simply 6 LEDs and a resistor in series.

    diode cct.jpg

    The diodes that light the "H2", "H4", and "L4" will be near the outer curved edge of the circuit board. The centre of each of these LEDs must be 2.5 mm from the outer curved edge. The LEDs that light up the pointer are the ones closer to the inner curveed edge of the circuit board. Their center is spaced 12.5 mm from the outer curved edge of the circuit board, or 100 mm away of the other LEDs.

    Drill 0.033" holes to mount the diodes, resistor, and connecting wires.

    Use a drill press, if available, to avoid breaking the fine drill bit.

    Drawn&Drilled.jpg

    Step 5:

    In a small plastic container which is big enough to hold the circuit board, mix etchant solution as per instructions that came with the etchant.

    Emerse circuit board into etching solution until unprotected copper is etched and the drawn circuit remains.

    Etched.jpg

    Step 6:

    Insert components, and solder.

    The diodes that light up the "H2", "H4", and "L4" should stick up above the circuit bord no more than 19 mm. The other diodes which light up the pointer should stick up above the circuit board no more than 14 mm.

    Note the flat side of the doide lens denotes the cathode. That is the negative side. Make sure the diodes are oriented to allow current to flow from one end of the circuit to the other.

    ComponentsSolderedBack.jpg

    Notice the circuit board on the side with the components also has copper trace where the connecting wires will attach. This will allow the ends of the wires to be soldered on the component side of the board, allowing the wires to exit the back side of the circuit board.

    ComponentsSloderedFront.jpg

    Trim off excess leads from components.

    Trimmed.jpg

    Step 7:

    Remove 4X4 switch from dashboard.

    I just slid my fingernails where my finger is pointing in the picture below and pulled.

    SwitchInDash.jpg

    Unplug the connector behind the switch and bring it inside.

    Step 8:

    Remove the small brown plug at the back of the switch by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot and turning counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The only picture I have of this plug is with the back already removed.

    BackCover-PlugCircled.jpg

    Insert two 22 Ga wires, one in each of the two holes in the plug. The wires are to be inserted from the side of the plug that faces inside the switch.

    I used wires from a telephone cable.

    Wrap each wire through each of the two slots, under the plug, and back up again. Wrap the wires as tightly and as deep into the slots as possible.


    LeadsWithPlug1.jpg
    LeadsWithPlug.jpg

    Step 9:

    Remove the back of the switch by carefully prying the tabs with a small screwdriver. One of the tabs is shown on the picture below. There are four tabs. Be careful not to break them. Also be carful of the spring loaded shaft inside the switch. Do not pull off the front selector, as doing so will allow the narrower part of the two piece shaft to fall out and a spring loaded ball bearing to go flying and become lost.

    TabCircled.jpg

    Step 10:

    Insert wire and plug back into the back cover of the switch. Turn the plug 1/4 turn clockwise to lock in place. If the plug does not turn, the wire is not wrapped flat enough on the plug.

    InsideBackCoverWithLeads.jpg

    Step 11:

    Trim the 22 Ga wires to an appropriate length and solder them to the circuit board. Solder the red wire to the positive lead of the first diode in the series circuit, and the black wire to the negative lead of the last diode of the series circuit.

    LeadsSolderedBack.jpg
    LeadsSolderedFront.jpg

    Look at where the brown plug was installed. Notice the 4 pinouts on the back cover of the switch. Take note of which pin is connected to the positive wire, and wich pin is connected to the negative.

    In my case, pin 1 is negative, and pin 3 is positive. The polarity of the pins can be switched by removing, repositioning, and reinserting the plug.

    Step 12:

    Insert the circuit board into the switch. This can only be accomplished if the selector is between "H4" and "L4", closer to "L4". This is due to the tabs on the shaft of the switch.

    CcuBrdInSwitch.jpg

    Cut 3 small pieces of neoprene weatherstripping, and stick them inside the switch housing to keep the circuit board in place as shown in the picture below.

    CctBrdHeldDown.jpg

    Snap the back of the switch back on, making sure the wires to the circuit board does not interfere with the operation of the switch.

    Step 13:

    Crimp the Molex connectors onto two stranded 18 Ga wires.

    MolexConnectorsOnLeads.jpg

    Step 14:

    Inside the Tacoma, locate the connector for the 4 x 4 switch.

    4X4SwitchConnector.jpg

    Using a jeweller's screwdriver, pry off the white retaining clip.

    Pry4X4SwitchConnector.jpg

    Insert the two Molex connectors into the empty slots. Take note of the polarity.

    In my case, Slot 3 is positive, and slot 1 is negative. Slot 1 is the furthest slot to the right in the picture below.

    4X4SwitchConnectorWithNewLeads.jpg

    Step 15:

    Remove the HVAC control panel.

    Remove the cover to the right of the stereo by prying at the top of the cover.

    I used my fingernails.

    CoverOnDash.jpg

    Place your finger in the hole behind the cover and find the clip at the upper right corner of the HVAC control panel, and push. That corner of the control panel should pop out.

    FingerInDashHole.jpg

    Place your finger in the hole where the 4x4 switch goes, and do the same thing for the left upper corner of the HVAC control panel.

    FingerInSwitchHole.jpg

    Remove the HVAC control panel and unplug the connectors from the back.

    HVACPnlOut.jpg

    Step 16:

    Fish the two 18 Ga stranded wires from the 4x4 switch connector to the HVAC control panel location.

    LeadsAtHVAC.jpg

    Step 17:

    On the connector with the thinner wires, find the green and the green/white wire.

    HVAC Connector.jpg

    Remove the retaining clip from the connecting by prying it off with a jewller's screwdriver.

    PryHVAC Connector.jpg

    Then remove the green/white wire from the connector by inserting a jewller's screwdriver in the receptacle end and pressig down on the plastic retaining tab.

    HVAC ConnectorReleaseTab.jpg

    Piggy back the negative wire from the 4x4 switch connector to the green/white wire.

    I losened part of the crimp on the green/white wire, place the negative wire from the 4x4 switch connector into the crimp, and re-crimped it.

    PiggybackedLead.jpg

    Insert the two wires back into the connector.

    Do the same with the solid green wire and the positive wire from the 4x4 switch connector.

    Reinstall the plastic retaining clip.

    Step 18:

    Plug the connectors back into the HVAC control panel, and reinstall the control panel.

    Step 19:

    Plug the connector back into the 4x4 switch and reinstall the switch.

    You're done: Turn the lights on, and the switch will look like this.

    LitSwitch.jpg

    Notes:

    1) I find the lighting not very even. A wider angle LED would probably work better.
    2) The LEDs are a bit brighter than the lights on rest of the dashboard. It also does not dim as fast. A larger resistor may help.
    3) The clear orange LED matches the OEM dash colour perfectly.

    Good luck!
     
  2. Jan 9, 2010 at 11:25 PM
    #2
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    Keep up the good word.... will like to see how you did it. Thanks
     
  3. Jan 9, 2010 at 11:39 PM
    #3
    MY50cal

    MY50cal I think I'm getting the Fear.

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    Yes.
    nice work. cant wait to see the rest!

    :popcorn:
     
  4. Jan 10, 2010 at 6:31 AM
    #4
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful but more the I want to tackle. I am very interested to see the hook up if you can provide pics and where to as clear as the fabrication that would be great.
     
  5. Jan 10, 2010 at 7:19 AM
    #5
    rcbs204

    rcbs204 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Scooter, looks cool for a DIY, take note that you are dropping 1.5amps across a 1/4 watt resistor. I hope you plugged that into 14Vdc to make sure it will not start your dash on fire!! Just Saying!
     
  6. Jan 10, 2010 at 8:18 AM
    #6
    Divingtigger

    Divingtigger Nuckin Futz

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    Good thing we are back to milder weather here, but then again out of the wind makes a huge difference as does the space heater. Looking good so far. Keep up with the pics and write up
     
  7. Jan 10, 2010 at 2:27 PM
    #7
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    I have the LEDs in series. They each have a 1.8V drop across them. I checked with a voltmeter. The resistor has 2.5V volts across it. That adds to 13.3 volts, which is the output of the power supply I was using to test the circuit on the bread board. The circuit draws 5 mA. I tested it with an ammeter. Ohm's law also confirms it.
    V = I x R
    2.5 = I x 470
    2.5/470 = I
    0.005 = I
    I am not drawing 1.5A, but 5mA. The resistor doesn't even get warm. That works out to 12mW across the resistor.
     
  8. Jan 10, 2010 at 6:56 PM
    #8
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    Okay, I finally finished the write-up. Check the first post. I've added all the rest of the steps to it.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2010 at 8:15 PM
    #9
    WATacoRider

    WATacoRider Well-Known Member

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    pics of it installed and on?
     
  10. Jan 12, 2010 at 8:55 AM
    #10
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    Augh! I've been having so much trouble posting picks, and having them disappear! I fix it as soon as I get a chance.
     
  11. Jan 12, 2010 at 1:53 PM
    #11
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    Okay, it's fixed. I hope the pictures will stay and not turn into red X's.
     
  12. Jan 12, 2010 at 3:46 PM
    #12
    MooseTX82

    MooseTX82 Moose

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    Are you a professional electrician? I do a bit of electrical work but some of this seemed harder than a job i'd be comfortable doing. Great work man!
     
  13. Jan 12, 2010 at 5:03 PM
    #13
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    Hi, Scooter
    Will you make it for sale??? zI will be the first one to buy it from you.
     
  14. Jan 12, 2010 at 8:20 PM
    #14
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    I'm an electrical engineer, and a bit of a hobbiest.
     
  15. Jan 12, 2010 at 8:23 PM
    #15
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    rcbs204 is selling these. Check the beginnig of the first post for a link. I think he's working out a minor kink in getting the circuit board mass produced. His circuit is slightly different in that his LEDs are in parallel, and mine are in series. I save a few resistors. His works just as well, and I think he is asking a very reasonable price.
     
  16. Dec 31, 2010 at 2:56 PM
    #16
    ruslanus

    ruslanus Well-Known Member

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    Great DIY, but a little too complicated for me :)
     
  17. Dec 31, 2010 at 3:03 PM
    #17
    KenpachiZaraki

    KenpachiZaraki Its Wicked Flow BITCHES!!

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    as a fellow scientist and avid mythbuster watcher, i might attempt if I stop playing call of dooty, and this also serves as my subscription:D

    good job!!!!
     
  18. Jan 3, 2011 at 11:42 AM
    #18
    100Proof

    100Proof New Member

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    That's awesome. You gave a great and comprehensive guide on how to do it! I image you can do this with other car makes as well. =)
     
  19. Jun 21, 2011 at 11:01 AM
    #19
    Scooter

    Scooter [OP] Canadian Member

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    ^^^^^
    Thanks!
     
  20. Sep 12, 2011 at 5:40 PM
    #20
    mikesfarm

    mikesfarm Well-Known Member

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    Scooter,
    Do you had a dwg of the dimensions for your board ? I was making a Autocad dwg of it, but it would be easier if you already made a dwg that had dimensions.
     
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