cheapest way to go from 2" lift to 3"?

Is there a cheap way to do it? Maybe adding small spacers on top of it?
I know people don't like those; but I'm not sure if any other options exist.

Doing it the right way isn't really in the budget right now
maybe one day it will be
King shocks or something (Icon, Fox, etc.)
taller front springs. Whole new rear leafpack such as $1k Icon RXT

but for now, really want to know if there is basically a cheap way to do it for now.
To upgrade from 2" lift to 3" to clear bigger tires and maybe go from 265 70 17 to 285 70 17 or 255 80 17 (tall skinnies)

currently have the 2" lift gained from Bilstein 5100 set to 0 all around with OME 883X front springs (2") and rear AAL (1.5-2") - so basically 2".
Seems like 3" or more is really what's best though; both for off road performance, clearance, and looks

Not sure what other problems going from 2" to 3" might cause such as:
-increased rate of CV boots tearing
-stock upper control arm hitting into the spring
-worse alignment and possible need for aftermarket $500 UCA's

Is it even possible to do cheaply? Or is taking that next jump up in tiers/step up the staircase going to come at a cost no matter what?
Another option besides spacers both front and rear added might be just adjusting the bottom perch plates of the Bilstein 5100 to add lift, but I hear this worsens ride a bit. Maybe it's worth it?
I'm not sure why the 3-leaf AAL kits still claim to offer the same 1.5-2" ride height increase as a single AAL

 

No cheap way you'll need ucas and best way would be getting 886x springs since you have a bumper. And lift doesn't mean you can clear bigger tires with out cuttings.

 

Just get the size tire you want and start cutting. A lift doesn't change the size of the wheel well so it's not really a solution for fitting larger tires.

You will likely need UCAs if you go taller or if you run 285s on the stock wheels.

 

I hate to be the negative Nancy, but if you can't do it the right way, you shouldn't do it at all.

It looks fine as it is. Don't throw money that you don't have just to fuck it up.

 

1" body lift. Let the haters hate, but this is the cheapest way to get another inch.

 

that doesn't raise the frame from the ground which is the whole point

just did more research and am starting to accept you may be right
remember the $275/ea for Dakar leaf pack also is probably per side, not both. So yeah, not cheap

 

Beg to differ. You want to run bigger tires, and this will work. Ask me how I know. I run a 285/70/17 which is the biggest tire you're hoping to fit. And yes, you will rub the cab mount at full lock heading downhill but they will fit otherwise. You'll eventually do the $100 CMC anyway running these tires no matter what lift you have.

I didn't see anywhere in your post that you were only wanting to raise the frame height. Maybe be more specific in your post next time.

 

The LCA’s and rear axle would still be the lowest points. Overall ground clearance is achieved by larger(taller) tires

 

Is this your truck? Looks like it has 35"s already? Why are you asking?



If your avatar photo isn't actually your truck, then 255/85-16 or 255/80-17 fits stock suspension with stock wheels. So that's the cheapest way to fit 33" tires, which should be your ultimate goal. Larger diameter tires improve off-road performance more than a lift.

 

Stay at 2" or go long travel and don't look back. Good luck with your truck.

 

Go skinny tire route,255s are not really that skinny anyway.

 

oh man that's a whole other can of worms I'm yet to open
lot of stuff within that criteria. King, OME BP-51, Icon, Fox, Radflo, ADS, etc.
haven't figured out what the hell the difference is between long travel, mid travel, and if there's even a short travel
I'm guessing the longer the better, and that it may require more mods to fit more travel and longer shocks. Like rear shock bracket/mount relocate (weld)
not sure about front
No idea if long means people have to cut holes in the bed and mount bars/cage where the shock pierces through the bed and mounts up high by the rear cab glass like a trophy truck
or if those are only the most extreme builds regarding external bypass shocks (vs internal) which I hear are loud.
But yes that would definitely be desirably maybe one day in the future if budget allows.

will need tires in the near future, was looking at stuff like Wildpeak AT3W, BFG KO2, etc.
preferably lighter load range C and not E
I don't think Wildpeak even comes in C for 265 or 285; I forget which one. E only. Not sure about 255.
But yeah supposedly that's another way of getting 33" tire is to get tall skinnies 255/80/17 instead of 285/70/17.
Just not sure the pros and cons of it
-might still rub
-maybe better mpg from less rolling resistance
-not sure if the thinner profile is good or bad. Maybe worse off road whereas a 285 can grab onto wider area of rocks, though both would be aired down to maybe 20psi

Wow I did not know they fit. You sure? 100%? It's not going to rub at near full lock steering?
Not saying you're one of those people
but sometimes with trucks people will shove a big tire then stay only in parking lots going straight and say it's great and not mention rubbing
kind of like lowered stance street cars with negative camber people shove bigger wheels and thin tires and claim it doesn't rub because they drive slow and take bumps at angles when in reality, normal driving conditions will make lots of rub

So far haven't really messed anything up on trail, but had to be really careful in choosing which lines to take a lot
Definitely was scared to hit rear diff. Not too worried about LCA since they're cheap but diff would suck to break and leak fluid far away from home. Maybe a diff skid isn't a bad idea.
Not to mention the other mods available for it like SUA/spring under axle or U-bolt flip kit

just looked up Wildpeak AT3W 255/80R17; not shown on TireRack, but shown at onlinetires and 4wheelparts only available as load range e 10-ply (heavier?)
maybe that size only comes in other models like cooper discovery st maxx and toyo open country at2

 

Yes 255/85-16 or 255/80-17 fits without rubbing on stock wheels. Aftermarket wheels with lower offset may rub. There's a full thread dedicated to this. These two sizes tend to come only in load range E regardless of brand - the tall sidewall needs to be thick to maintain tire structure.

Don't worry about hitting the diff or rear axle. Worry about denting your driveshaft Be careful with diff skids as some can rub the fuel tank at full stuff.

 

I went from 5100's with 885 springs to 886 springs. I sold my springs for what I bought the 886 springs for (used)
So it was a free up grade. I did however also get used JBA UCA's for $350, so that was really my only cost. Well plus an alignment.
I have a us offroad low pro bumper with a winch and steel cable in the front so the 885's were already sagging after that install. I would guess I sit right at 2.5 inches of lift now over stock.

 

what did you do to the rear to get it up to match the front? (a bit of forward rake for aesthetics seems common)

 

If your only motivation is to clear 285s, then just do the CMC/trimming/hammering to clear the tires and save your money for a nicer suspension setup further down the road.

 

My rear has an ask but I also have a shell. I need a full rear pack. I sag in the rear now

 

I’m not sure all this information is correct at least maybe not in every circumstance. I am only lifted 2 inches and I run 285/75R16s with no cmc and the only thing that rubbed at full lock was the inner corner of the plastic inner fender. I trimmed maybe 3 inches of plastic off it and had no problem. Alignment is within specs with my stock control arms and it drives fine. I don’t off road but I bounce it around a little if I find a good spot and I never rub anything.

 

Park on a short piece of 2X6 lumber under each tire.

 

I'm gonna try this. Hopefully it works.
(adding spacers to add 1" of lift to an already 2" lifted suspension)
just trying to get some more ride height ground clearance