Check engine light after turning over several times before finally starting

AIC valve?

 

I didn’t read every word of every response but have you checked your coolant overflow for a leak? The plastic can get brittle over time. Also, if there’s no visible coolant leak and the oil isn’t milky, check your transmission fluid. Make sure coolant isn’t leaking to the transmission via the trans cooler.

 

Okay that's on my list.Thanks a lot.Just has a hard time starting and when it does it barely idles to about 1k rpms

 

I read the code reader and it says it's an ECT sensor.Does that look like it?

 

If my memory serves, this is the ECT sensor, back towards the back of the engine.

 

Thank you so much.I couldn't find it in my chilton book.Its weird that the code pops up for the ect sensor.But the knock sensor didn't come up.

 

Looking at your original pic, one of those wires is the knock sensor. I cannot swear as to which. (There's two right there, correct?)

 

I have a thread about my "mystery coolant leak", search in the 1st Gen using those words.

 

Yes 2 Wires.Brown and green.Both ends have a plug in

 

The 3.4 engine has 2 ect sensors. One just below the top rad hose that uses 2 wires. And one on the back of the engine that uses 1 wire. The one wire located in back is for the gauge, the one in front with 2 wires goes to the ecm. The rear one wont throw a cel if unplugged or malfunctioning. At least mine didnt.. the front one will because the ecu looks at it to determine what temp the engine is running..

 

I'm going to the dealership now to look for the part.Are you saying that picture I took was not a knock sensor

 

After looking at your photo again those two wires are going to the ect sensor. Ill be glad to take a picture of mine for reference

 

Please I'm on my way to the dealership

 

Sure thing. Also with the wire being broken to the connector that will have to be repaired. Your ect sensor may very well be fine.. its just not getting a signal to the ecu.. that can cause poor idle

 

I'm gonna hopefully get Just replacement wires to plug them back into the sensors?

 

Then see if it's the sensor or not

 

When you get a code for ECT sensor the computer fail-safe is to assume the coolant temperature is 180°F. That explains the rough idle when cold. It should run just about normal once it's warmed up.

I agree. Fix the wire first. The sensor is probably fine. You can test it too by measuring its resistance.

 

My wire has a piece of loom on it but that’s your culprit. Just get the wire reconnected and see if the cel comes back

 

No. Toyota will say they only sell the entire wire harness for the whole engine and it costs a bazillion dollars.

 

They said they have just the wire.Well see I'm about walk in.i want to just replace to wire with 2 plugs