Check engine light troubles

I forget the codes I was getting off hand but I replaced both oxygen sensors. I replaced upstream with a denso and went about a hundred miles before the check engine light came on then it started to miss and stumble when it was cold seem to get better as it warmed up so I unplugged o2 and it ran like a top for a while. then it started running funky again so I plugged it back in. It's a manual transmission and if I'm pulling away shifting into second or third it will jolt the whole vehicle it's not really an engine miss per se it just feels like lugging. Once it's warm it runs pretty good but the Cel is on and it won't pass the next inspection. The frame is questionable so I don't want to sink a ton into it.

 

Throw a scan tool on it and see what the CEL is due to. That’s always the starting point. Check pending codes also.

 

Okay I got three codes po135 po171 and p2237.

 

O2 heater circuit and mass air flow sensor related.

 

What engine?
2.7 or 3.4 ?

 

2.4.

 

Try pulling your MAF sensor and cleaning it? I just did mine and it made a world of difference.

 

I've changed the spark plugs, coils, throttle position sensor and both oxygen sensors. I will check the maf tomorrow thank you.

 

P0135

 

P0171

 

P2237

 

From the data
Would say start with front O2 sensor
(Shows up 3 times in poss reasons for CE light)

this is guess unless you bench test the sensor or listen to TN shooter

 

Use CRC MAF sensor cleaner. If yours is the type to have wire and bulb exposed, don’t touch them just spray and air dry. Mine is an enclosed unit so I cleaned all the dirt off and sprayed liberally.

 

Make sure your whole intake pipe tract is together, no leaks

 

Thanks for all the replies.

 

Okay clean the maf today with the proper cleaner air dried it put it back in. went for a little ride about 25 miles in check engine came on. checked it when I got home one code p2237

 

I think that still refers to the O2 sensor but specifically the heated portion of it. Can you get a DVM on the connector to see if you have heater voltage at the sensor?

 

$60 for Vatozone front O2 sensor (2.4l)

vids out there to perform a bench test on old sensor to confirm bad
(Need lighter and multimeter)

 

I've been through three front sensors two from China and then I finally got the denso I can't believe they've all been bad. I will try and check the voltage on the heater circuit.

 

Not that I succumb to “OEM only” no matter what
From my time here, I’m leaning towards OE……especially closer to engine (that is my stupid rule(throttle P sensor/knock sensor/MAF sensor) would shell out extra $ for OE
But
I loaded parts cannon for a CE code after new injectors installed
Many potential causes
Bought

$38 Bosch 13104 Premium OE Fitment Oxygen Sensor - Compatible with Select Lexus LX470; Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Pickup, Sequoia, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

Bosch 13104(2.4L)
No issues
But
The issue turned out to be shitty fleabay injectors mind you
The Bosch part working fine so far


If you have gone through 3, might want to trace that O2 harness and pigtail……inspect for burn/rubbing marks (open connection)