Check Your U-Joints

Moly (molybdenum) is a hard metal and has exellent wear properties. You can even get moly engine treatment. How ever lithium is recommended for this application.

 

its both, lithium based but with a moly additive. Odd I know.
"SynPower is formulated with a lithium complex thickened in a synthetic base oil, moly and other premium additives to provide superior protection from high loads and extreme temperatures"

 

That is correct. Lithium with moly is considered moly grease. Lithium is recommended but I'm sure moly would do just fine.

 

I think I'm ready!

So do I have to remove that shield? Or can that rear zerk in the front be reach by just rotating the shaft?

 

It's a lot easier with it removed. Inspection of the seals is easier too.

 

Well the shit show continues. I guess asking the dealer to change the zerk and purge the joint translates to "nah, I'll write customer says just to check it and make sure it's lubed" I just pulled the heat shield off, guess what? Same zerk, not purged. About to try this myself one more time. On the bright side, I guess my ATF levels are fine...so they say.

 

Sure looks like a needle should get that. If it were mine I would take a die grinder to the yoke, so from now on I could use just the coupler. I have done this many times before on other equip. with no problem.

 

Agreed! I have just now went one step further this time and removed the shield and the bracket from the frame. The bracket is 12mm x2 bolts and it seems my access may now be even better. Bought a different coupler so wish me luck, here we go.

 

Yes sir, a needle will definitely fit. I'm on my own again or I would try the needle with a second pair of hands as you recommended. Using the first needle (albeit the "cheap" needle) was a real bear for me. I went to Oreillys but they didn't have the Lincoln so being as I ground down my last coupler, I bought a new one which is a Lincoln. I'm about to try this again before I grind down the yoke. Thank you retired mech.

 

I'd try loosening the zerk first; looks like it's pointed down in your photo.
It also looks like something's fucky with the ball; so it might be the zerk itself and nothing to do with clearance.
I'd pull and replace the zerk before I started grinding.

 

So I don't even know what you guys are talking about lol... Is your zerk messed up or something ?

 

Holy sh*t! I had to stop and get a picture! Fish on and purging!

 

Yay!

 

I don't get what's going on

 

He couldn't get the coupler on that zerk.
That's why some are recommending the use of a needle.

 

If your zergs don't work then your u joint might look like this. I didn't lube until 100k and by then it was too late. It is now part of the regular maintenance

 

This just in, thousands of brand new Tacomas are spitting out u joints all over the country. Oh wait... No they're not.

 

Yeah not that big of a deal imo. Only one was toast after 100k now gteasing 30k to 50k is more than enough. The other 3 are still good.

 

There's moly(main lubricant-up to 100%) and moly-fortified(additive usually3%-7%).

 

Well that was easy! The only variable that changed this time was I used a Lincoln coupler. Looking inside at the old coupler, I notice now it has 4 "prongs" to grasp the zerk whereas the Lincoln only has three. I think it was the extra prong that wasn't allowing me to make a purchase on the zerk. The Lincoln seems to have allowed me to rotate the coupler slightly to where it slid right on. Many thanks to you SplitBolt and Retired Mech, I perservered and learned much from the process.

Picture 1, old coupler.
Picture 2, Lincoln coupler