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Check Your U-Joints

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by splitbolt, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:13 AM
    #1181
    splitbolt

    splitbolt [OP] Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    2wd or 4wd?
    2wd never had them.
     
  2. Jun 4, 2017 at 12:35 PM
    #1182
    MagGrayGuy

    MagGrayGuy New Member

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    ARE hard tonneau,
    Sorry, new to Tacos but love the truck, 2WD
     
  3. Jun 6, 2017 at 9:45 AM
    #1183
    Dannyblues

    Dannyblues Well-Known Member

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    New Milford Connecticut
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    weather tech mats, mud flaps, black side rail step, cargo bed liner, roll up cargo bed cover, wheel locks towing package
    Had my u joints lubed by dealer shop second time yesterday. Thanks to this thread I went to the dealer several months ago and told the foreman that my 4x4 2016 trd made in march 2016 probably had inferior lubrication as I learned here. I asked the dealer shop to check how many grease fittings I had and to properly grease them all.
    The foreman returned and said his mechanic found and greased three zerks and the other two were factory sealed.
    Yesterday I instructed the foreman to oversee his mechanic and to remove the front cover to access the two front zerks.
    As I thought! There are five grease fittings! Not three. And the front two were not sealed.
    I can only hope they actually did the grease job.
    I've become known at this dealership since I had to get Toyota USA corporation involved with the incompetent work done there. ( Here also I learned the simple fix to my manual transmission getting stuck in gear was a long well known posted TSB )
    After my marriage to Toyota expires for free service at 25,000 miles with Toyota care I think I'll find another Toyota shop or a good local shop to do services.
    BTW: the desk jockey at the counter at the dealership wasn't even aware and contested at first that propeller shaft lubrication! And the foreman told me that today's toyotas are so well made that such things as propeller shaft greasing and changing fluids in the differentials aren't even necessary ( unless your rear diff has a decal stating LSD, a real limited slip differential ) which I doubt mine does. On this site it was also explained to me that the LSD listed as a component in my Tacoma is simply an open differential that uses the ABS systems traction control to transfer power to the non high spinning wheel when for instance that one rear wheel is slipping on ice. A true LSD system employes clutches or some other method to allow both wheels to turn when one slips past 100 rpm more than the other more or less.
    Be aware of what you are entitled to and develop a relationship with your service tech or shop so you don't get ripped off or have improper services done!
    Dannyblues
     
    over60 likes this.
  4. Jun 6, 2017 at 9:52 AM
    #1184
    stevotivo12

    stevotivo12 Well-Known Member

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    Front hellwig sway bar,All pro sway bar end links, Fox 2.5 Resi Coilovers and Shocks, Fox 2.5 Hydraulic Bumpstops, Budbuilt Traction bar, Total Chaos UCAs w/ heim joints, Icon AAL, AFE Power Intake with dynamic scoop, URD spec U, URD short shifter, Flossy weighted shift knob, michelin tires, black badges, black tailgate letters, black grill with custom Diaz Fab Devil horn yota logo, retrofit/morimoto HID conversion, red interior LED lights, Pioneer head unit, kenwood excelon door speakers, 2 10" pioneer subs,
    You guys should all support your local driveshaft shop and have the u joints replaced with solid ones like I did. They're stronger and WARRANTIED for 100k if you go with Spicer solid u joints. Your driveshaft may be unbalanced from the factory like mine was anyways and your local shop will be able to fix you up within a couple hours if it's anything like my local shop.
     
    Dannyblues likes this.
  5. Jun 6, 2017 at 10:20 AM
    #1185
    bshammer0

    bshammer0 Well-Known Member

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    Prinsu, TruckCovers USA, Coverking, OVTuned
    how much did that set you back?
     
  6. Jun 6, 2017 at 10:36 AM
    #1186
    stevotivo12

    stevotivo12 Well-Known Member

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    Front hellwig sway bar,All pro sway bar end links, Fox 2.5 Resi Coilovers and Shocks, Fox 2.5 Hydraulic Bumpstops, Budbuilt Traction bar, Total Chaos UCAs w/ heim joints, Icon AAL, AFE Power Intake with dynamic scoop, URD spec U, URD short shifter, Flossy weighted shift knob, michelin tires, black badges, black tailgate letters, black grill with custom Diaz Fab Devil horn yota logo, retrofit/morimoto HID conversion, red interior LED lights, Pioneer head unit, kenwood excelon door speakers, 2 10" pioneer subs,
    22$ a piece X3 for parts, 65$ in labor for install, welding, and then rebalancing the shaft so like 130ish after tax
     
    bshammer0 likes this.
  7. Jun 6, 2017 at 10:55 AM
    #1187
    Dannyblues

    Dannyblues Well-Known Member

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    New Milford Connecticut
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    weather tech mats, mud flaps, black side rail step, cargo bed liner, roll up cargo bed cover, wheel locks towing package
    I havent noticed any wobbling or anything unusual with the drivetrain or propeller shaft but I appreciate your advice. I don't understand what a solid driveshaft is. I imagine such a specialized shop that does driveshafts must be good and I assume they balance everything. Spicer is a famous name in such parts.
    Why did you have your driveshaft replaced? My 2016 trd is almost one year old with 15,000 miles on it. I'm hoping with proper librication ( including synthetic oil and filter changes every 5k plus synthetic fluid changes of the diff and front transfer case every 25,000 which is far more frequent than Toyota requires ) I won't be repairing or replacing those parts
    My personal game plan is to trade mine in at three years and use it's value towards an identical new 2019 or 2020 model providing I can get it duplicated including the black color and manual stick shift but I maintain it like it's the last vehicle I'll ever own, and at nearly 68 it may be. I've always traded up or sold for a new one every few years because without a huge down payment not many including me can afford any new trucks. The early trade/ sell makes for a decent down payment although I love the trd I now own and hate to think of parting with it.
    This is my first truck. It's a very personal experience owning it just like the first 1987 Harley Davidson superglide I still have. That too I'd hate to part with even if they gave me a brand new one plus $10,000 for it. It has so many memories with me. My Tacoma feels the same way. It isn't just a vehicle.
    Thanks for the advice.
    What did it cost you to replace your driveshaft?
    Dannyblues
     
  8. Jun 6, 2017 at 10:59 AM
    #1188
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Anyone using Superlube? Total Chaos recommends this for their UCA's and I have some still. it is NGLI #2. If not looking through the thread there are a ton of different options. Moly/no Moly but so far no issues but figured I can grease them up while doing my oil change.
     
    Dannyblues likes this.
  9. Jun 6, 2017 at 11:26 AM
    #1189
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Never mind I just went with the Valvoline SynPower noted in the thread and grabbed a second gone to dedicate to U-Bolts.
     
  10. Jun 6, 2017 at 1:01 PM
    #1190
    splitbolt

    splitbolt [OP] Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    Superlube is teflon based and meant for the polyurethand bushings of your uca.
    You're going to want two different grease guns.

    Here's a video... There's a right way and a wrong way to grease them as well.
     
    69others likes this.
  11. Jun 6, 2017 at 2:15 PM
    #1191
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Toyota running boards/Solid Fold 2.0/custom stickers/Anti-Dark LED light under hood/Derped grill/Scoop, etc.
    You lube your bolts..? How is that done..? Mine do not seem to have any zerks on them..!
     
  12. Jun 6, 2017 at 2:28 PM
    #1192
    69others

    69others Well-Known Member

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    True. And would be relubricated at the first service interval.
    Third gen paranoia at its best.
     
  13. Jun 6, 2017 at 2:29 PM
    #1193
    69others

    69others Well-Known Member

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    Exactly. Time 8:20.
     
  14. Jun 6, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    #1194
    splitbolt

    splitbolt [OP] Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    Relubrication would imply they were lubricated prior.
    These only had assembly/shipping grease.
    If you're good with that, fine.
     
    over60 likes this.
  15. Jun 6, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #1195
    Dannyblues

    Dannyblues Well-Known Member

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    New Milford Connecticut
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    weather tech mats, mud flaps, black side rail step, cargo bed liner, roll up cargo bed cover, wheel locks towing package
    I think the NGLI - 2 is a good choice. I've read different opinions on the grease but what cheap crap grease if any at all is used by the dealership shops
    The foreman at my shop doesn't believe in greasing u joints ever and only a regular change of rear differential fluid if you have real LSD which my TRD apparently doesn't. He stated grease is grease with a smile and doesn't recommend ever changing rear differential or transfer case fluids but suggested that if I wanted to be a maintenance fanatic I could change them at 90,000 miles. He also isn't sure whether Toyota uses regular or synthetic fluids in either component from the factory. And he's their master mechanic. I guess he believes wait until it breaks from lack of maintenance then replace everything. ( or maybe sell it before it breaks to an unsuspecting buyer )
    He also uses the cheapest 87 octane he can find in his own truck. Never mind top tier gas.

    Just keep everything lubed with the best products for the application you can buy.

    There are many helpful posts and videos to show you how to do everything and what to use on this site.
    Best of luck. Enjoy your Tacoma. Anything you do or request be done is light years ahead of the average Tacoma owner especially if they bring their truck to the dealer who basically just rotates tires and looks for non warrantied cash only repairs that may not even require service.
    Dannyblues
     
  16. Jun 6, 2017 at 4:57 PM
    #1196
    Dannyblues

    Dannyblues Well-Known Member

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    weather tech mats, mud flaps, black side rail step, cargo bed liner, roll up cargo bed cover, wheel locks towing package
    P. S. To my last post on lubrication.
    I personally have my oil and filter changed every 5,000 miles with toyotas 0-20 w full synthetic oil and their OEM filter.
    There are two o rings in the oil filter change but thus far my dealership receipt only lists one was changed.
    Also what oil the dealership uses probably from a large 50 gallon drum may or may not be the exact same Toyota brand you buy from the dealers parts department by the quart.
    Dealer shops rely on fast turnover of vehicles in for service while maximizing profits on expensive parts replacement and high labor costs. ( here in ct it's $100 to $116 per hour for non warranty work ).
    I also don't believe the numerous free maintenance checks are actually done by the mechanic at the dealer unless the tech spots something that can generate money for his shop.
    Most of the time at least up until 25,000 miles they rotate tires and give you two free oil and filter changes at 10 and 20,000 miles.
    I doubt very much; in fact I'm sure they don't actually do everything on that free maintenance check.
    I just had two brand new tires installed in the rear before 13,500 miles recently and after the normal service with tire rotation the tech wrote all four tires including the 15,000 mile original ones had all 8 mm tread depth. ( I think it's mm but anyway two are brand new and two have almost one year and 15,000 miles on them and the tread depth is noticibly different on both sets even by eye ).

    After my 25,000 Toyota care free services I'll find another shop. Bottom line. Learn yourself at least to know what should be done if you don't do it yourself. Check your vehicle well before and after each service before you leave their shop.
    Beware.
    Dannyblues
     
    over60 likes this.
  17. Jun 7, 2017 at 11:43 PM
    #1197
    igno1tus

    igno1tus Small member

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    So my options for the rear if I understand correct is to either jack the truck up , front wheels choked and the trans in neural (motor off I guess ? ) and spin the drive shaft ( or wheels) until the zerks are easily accessible ? (I don't think everyone's just lined up and were easy to get to just randomly)

    Or can I get away with jacking up 1 tire and spinning it with the truck in neutral

    Or roll the truck on the ground until they can be accessed ?

    I think the first sound easier because how will you know they are accessible if you are rolling the truck .

    It seems as thou most did not need the needle accessory for the grease gun also from what I read here ,
     
  18. Jun 9, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #1198
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Totally, I had been referring to that video. I already went with Valvoline SynPower for the U-bolts. Did the rear 3 and took 10~ or so pumps for each one. Truck has around 45k on it.

    I had a question on the front 2. on the 2nd Gen are they in between the U-Bolt? I did not do those two as the zerk was in a different spot and was not 100% sure.

    N/M - Completely missed the photo in the first post that clears my question for the front 2. Need to get that finished up.

    So far I feel I notice a difference. I did oil change the same day but the truck seems to drive smoother overall.
     

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  19. Aug 14, 2017 at 7:47 AM
    #1199
    Connecticut_Tacoma

    Connecticut_Tacoma Well-Known Member

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  20. Aug 14, 2017 at 8:04 AM
    #1200
    cwolgy88

    cwolgy88 Well-Known Member

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    None as of yet
    Wonder if my Dealership did these for my 5K service.

    Yet another thing I have to worry about on this damn truck. :mad:
     

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