Check Your U-Joints

Thanks for the feedback. I no longer have a SR5 I traded it in. I now have a 2017 TRD off-road Long Bed. Does anyone have any idea of how many there are on a 2017 OR?

 

Congrats on the new truck..... You should have the 2 on the front shaft (if it's a 4X4)..hehe

 

Thanks @over60 it a much better ride for sure, and thanks for the tip. I will be checking them out this weekend. I forgot they do offer the off-road in a 2x4 which is crazy but each to there own I guess. And Yes mine is a 4x4.

 

Found and pumped full of new grease two zerks. Took like 6 full pumps just to get what little of the old grease that was in there to start coming out. Did it 5k miles later only needed one pump to get seepage so I think I can go 10k without checking them again. Two bolts on one set of U bolts were loose but only marginally

 

Just check every oil change. pump until new grease comes out and not just the old grease

 

Maybe I should’ve been clearer, 6 pumps to get the old out and then for the new to start coming out. Then when I rechecked recently at 9k miles it took 1 pump to see new grease. But yes this is great advice. Out with the old in with the new!

 

Can anyone recommend a narrow type grease tip or coupler? Im having a hard time greasing my u joints with my stock grease gun tip.

What are you guys using?

 

I grinded the tip down and it makes it easier to get to those front 2 zerks.

 

Just saved me some bucks! Thank you sir!

 

Also, I upgraded to a grease gun that has a single hand pump versus the longer handle. I use one hand to put pressure on the zerk fitting to insure the grease goes in.

 

Do all 5 purge? I was reading somewhere that one should only take 2-3 pumps because there no room for excess to escape. Might be for 4runners only.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Thank you for the video TRIPPIN strangely satisfying to see the grease purge

I just checked today when doing the first oil change and rechecking the transmission fluid

It took about 6 easy slow pumps on the wife's Taco to get the job done

I mean the front driveshaft zerks needed about 6 pumps of grease to purge and a side note they still had factory paint over the end and the check ball so they never were touched after the assembly and paint down on the assembly line

So basically in Dana/Spicers very own video they basically throw their own "lifetime " u joints that are chosen by Toyota from the factory under the buss since there is no way to know if they are actually greased proper or not

Would I be crazy to just get some Spicer joints and put them in ?
If someone could share a Spicer or even a Orielly Precision PN# for a center grease for the 17 and up that didn't get them
Thanks in advance Mike

 

U-Joints, generally, do not suddenly explode from lack of grease. Wait for the sealed OEM ones to wear out, then replace them with ones with a grease fitting.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YVWC_hgS1wM

Annoying host, but true facts. 5 minute mark for the wiggle test.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw

 

Greased the front 2 on my 2017 last night. Purged a lot of black.
I've been having some clunks and a high pitch squeaking while moving (still trying to track this down, could be leaf springs) and hope this will help!
Thanks for the info on here. I had no issue getting the gun fitting onto the zerk using the Lumax Grease Gun. The longest part was figuring out how to reattach the heat shield.

 

True...
99% of the ones I've seen fail on TW start chirping.
On inspection, the needles are completely rusted away.

 

I watch a lot of his videos. Super informative. His blinker fluid video had me dying lol

 

My mechanic neighbor and I only found one zerk on the front u joint, couldn't find any other locations...anyone got photos of the second front zerk for 2017 4x4 trd off road?

 

There are two u-joint in the front driveshaft. One at the transfer case, and one at the front diff. On a 2017, both have a grease nipple in the center of the spider.

 

That's what I kept reading (prior to doing this with him last night), but we rotated the entire section by the T-case and couldn't find a it, then I found a reference to the sheild and a 12mm bolt, but we pushed forward and went ahead with the rest of the diffs and t-case, ATF and exhaust chop. We'll check after another ~1500 miles while doing the oil change.

A photo or link to one with the t-case one would also help (but we didn't see one on any side of the spider gear/u-joint).