choosing a "standard" non-slotted or drilled front brake rotor education needed

I need a "standard" non-slotted or drilled front brake rotor for regular normal road use only on a stock truck, which front rotors to get?

they have the regular $20-$30 rotors in the name brands you see on brake pads (ACDelco, Warner, Bosh) and then there are the "standard" flat surface premium rotors running around $80-$100, then there are the slotted and drilled rotors for off road and performance but im not asking about those as I don't want those because they are raspy noisy and unnecessary for my application.

so what should the average guy buy?

I don't need fancy but I want good quality and long life from them.

in the past a rotor was a rotor and anyone you buy would outlast the vehicle but now things are made so much cheaper and poorer quality so what have you guys learned from experience as to the correct rotors to get for strictly on paved road normal driving in a stock unmodded truck?

 

When i did my tundra swap i bought the parts store cheap rotors, they have worked fine. I did the same when i bought rear rotors for my fj80 axle im swapping in (have not run yet) and just did my wife's camry with the cheapo rotors and they work great. People will tell them that you warp them and you need slotted blah blah blah, but the reality is driving technique will warp rotors faster than the quality, especially in a street truck

 

Just go with whatever the local auto parts store has for cheap. I run slotted rotors and ebc pads but thats for larger tires and weight.

 

Slotted rotors are more blingy, and that's about the end of their use for 99% of the people. Standard and life is good, you can afford to buy lunch afterwards.

 

ok guys but I already knew slotted and drilled rotors are for "extreme" setups and not for me but I wasn't sure if getting a "quality" standard rotor or a generic cheapo rotor would make any difference in lifespan or pad life.

I think the concensus here, If I understood your comments correctly, is that basic generic rotors are all you need and unless you just want bragging rights, spending $100 on a "premium" grade rotor is just silly and definately not worth it.

 

Correct

 

thanks for the help guys, im still leary of the rotors I don't recognize the brand name so i'll get one from a familiar brake pad name brand. the peace of mind in not knowing if its cheap defective china crap and inferior metals is worth the extra $5 in my book

 

I use Napa premium and ceramic pads and my double cab stops fine. I use the same on my civic and run auto cross with it and drive to work. Low dust with the ceramic pads and the rotors are decent quality. Don't drive like an ass, it's a truck.

 

Pretty happy with the Brembo blank rotors on my DC, middle of the road price wise but I think very good quality

Went w/ hawk ceramic pads

 

So to add-on/follow-up:

Are slotted rotors preferred or even warranted for off-roading? They offer better heat dissipation, which if you are braking often could be a factor. Any concerns they have more issues with mud and shit jamming up in the slots?

I have also read that it is a good idea to replace the rear drums with rotors, as they offer better braking, especially if you have to back down a grade. Anyone swap out their drums for rotors?

Mine has drums in the rear, and I am soon to replace the lug studs on all wheels as some are beat up badly (some douche nozzle at some point apparently air ratcheted on cross threaded or something like that, and screwed up the threads on several studs) . Since I will be down to the rotors to do this (and have to dismantle a chunk of my manual hub to boot), I'd rather do new rotors at that time than have to do it all again some later day.

Opinions?

 

the toyota oem rotors last a long time, ppl are getting lots of miles on them, the $30 rotors are unlikely to last that long and are likely to warp easier.

 

for a job like that you save money getting a full kit with 2 rotors and pads in one and sometimes you find kits that also include the rear brakes too.

drilled and slotted rotors don't do anything for regular road use and wear out quicker and are designed strictly for off road (mud) or race applications and are made for aggressive racing style brake pads that dig into the rotors more so just get the plain smooth rotors for a daily driver truck.

 

http://home.wavecable.com/~vtucker/A4/rotors.pdf

An extensive test on this subject.

 

^^ going to read this. For me, I do a steep grade up and down for work every day, and the one going home is loooong and steep, with around 6,000 people crowding it coming out of the Lab every day. In other words I find I use the brakes a bit 222 days a year. So looking to really get some performance and longevity.

 

211K on the OEM rotors,,and the OEM drums. Equal duty on and off road, lite loaded and not.

Just snag the Napa premiums and be done. I have about 40K on the premium front pads from there, without issue.

It can be a hassle finding a shop that will turn drilled/slotted rotors, because they eat cutting bits as they catch a hole or slot during the brake lathe process no matter how light a cut they perform. It's the nature of the product and design.

The question to ask yourself is,,do you need drilled or slotted?,,is it absolutely required for your survival in the truck and you have a strong feeling that they are needed, other than the woody you got from seeing them in the catalog?.

Are you trying to keep up with Menzies Motorsports as they blast across the desert then haul the truck down from ballistic speeds as they dive down into the riverbed rocks?,,or there short course work,,which is even harder on the brakes?

Are you severely overloading the truck and the pulled behind trailer as you make your way around town and up and down 30% graded hills?. I think we have 1 member on here that does this with a Tacoma and he runs stock stuff and is not severely overloaded. Steep grades are nothing, so long as you are smart with the pedal and engine compression.

To each his own,,but if you are similar to the typical joe who does none of this,,then the question has been answered.

 

So I just ran to the dump and got a weight of my truck empty. 4300lbs. 2 ton. why does that mater? well with velocity comes need for good brakes.
I have cross drilled all my rotors for the last 20 years. all the rigs have stopped better including my 94 that towed a 19 foot 5th wheel. I have always said if you can get it stopped and on the side of the road you can always walk home! So brakes and tires are always the best I can afford.
but if you are putting on new brakes you are already subscribe to that same idea. go with what you can, if its not getting it done go bigger.

good luck