Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

I was able to get my dealer in GA to install the bushing under a warranty claim to fix the bearing 4 years ago. I’ve since stopped tracking that issue on TW but I think there is a service bulletin to have the dealer replace it...maybe ask if they would put the bushing in rather than the bearing? I know folks like to bash stealerships but I’ve found them to be reasonable and willing to beat a competitors quote to keep their techs busy.

 

Absolutely....let me know when and how much he will charge for the install.

 

I’ll let you know as soon as I hear back from him. I’m also going to try to get him to replace my front wheel bearings seeing as they are starting to make noise on the highway (much more noticeable now with the new quiet rear driveshaft).

 

I’ve done it and have the puller. I bought it used but it’s still all good.
The swap is easy. $25.00 if you want it.

 

I just did mine not to long ago, I still have the tool and bearing drivers if someone needs to borrow it or can help install it also

 

I wouldn’t be opposed to doing the needle bearing myself I just don’t know if I’ll be able to find the time to do it. I’d definitely be interested in buying (or borrowing) the tool though. I can order the ECGS replacement bushing and work on figuring out whether or not it’s something I’m willing to do myself. One of my biggest concerns is lifting the truck off the ground. The last time I tried my jack wasn’t tall enough to get the front wheels off the ground without wood blocks on top of it...

 

Get a taller jack
Harbor Freight 3 ton is what I use now. Plenty tall enough, and even better with a chunk of 4x4 on top of it.

After I sold my Prelude, and then my Mazda3 that I traded for my truck, my low pro jack is now near worthless/pointless. The handle makes a great cheater bar

 

The heat has to do as much with the soil as the pepper. Measure the pH of your soil

I know the feeling. I went out and bought a taller jack when I did my suspension and I know I will need an even taller one when I go to bigger tires. What's the best jack people have found for lifted tacomas with droop and bigger tires? (Short of a hi-lift, which I use when needed, but sometimes prefer something better) I'm not thrilled about buying some $300 jack either. (pro eagle, etc)

 

See, that’s my problem as well. I drove several different lowered VWs and Audi vehicles before I bought my Tacoma so my low profile jack is also essentially worthless. And even the standard jack I’d use to lift my old cars once I got the low profile jack under them won’t go high enough to get the front wheels of the Tacoma off the ground. I’ve had success lifting the rear of the truck but not the front. I’d consider purchasing a new jack but with two little ones I rarely have enough time to work on the truck so I’ve been letting my buddy do most things for me lately. Oil changes aren’t bad seeing as I can do them without lifting the truck but outside of that, I’ve been quite limited. The needle bearing replacement doesn’t look very difficult I’d just need to find the right tools and the time to do it. And having someone on hand who has done it before probably wouldn’t hurt either.

 

So, who can give me the run down on Audi engines then?


Looking into getting a new sales car, and LOVE Audi interiors and styling.

Right now I have a Honda Accord with the K24 motor which is BULLET PROOF.


Not really wanting to get into an Audi that has a metric shit ton of maintenance and fail points.


Just looking for a quick run down, without having to read 10,000 hours of import forums.

 

I usually put the jack on my skid plate (aftermarket, 1/4 or 3/16 steel, and beefy so it doesn't flex, much), or if the skid is off I'll use the round thing on the front cross member. Another couple places is the cross member right behind the oil pan, the frame using a 4" x 4" block of wood, then jack stands on the frame, right behind the front wheels.

Best places for getting the front in the air is a nice and solid IFS skid, or that round thing. With factory skids, you can get a jack on the cross member round thing in the pic below. A lot of the aftermarket skids cover that because they extend all the way to the cross member behind the oil pan.

 

My jack and jack stands have shrunk also.

 

Just noticed this pic has a fancy painted anti roll bar and fancy red bushings. Who does that?!

Throw that shit in the trash.

 

Is it as easy to do in your own driveway as the videos look? And did it resolve the grinding/vibration issue as expected?

 

It's not terrible, takes more time then anything, I spent a good amount of time running around to get different tools that I didn't have on hand, worst trouble I had was getting the cv shaft out without taking the tie rod off

And yes it solved the grinding issue

 

I can give you a fair amount of insight into the VW/Audi world of engines. As with any brand there are engines that last and there are engines with known problems. I stuck to the same engine in all of my cars (1.8 liter four cylinder turbo) and my biggest issue was the negative impact of all the modifications I did to them. I never kept any of them long enough to have to deal with major repairs but the potential for disaster was always there, especially running 350+ crank HP out of an engine that originally came with 150...

If you’re looking for a “bullet proof” stock VW/Audi motor and you want to keep the car for a while I’d recommend avoiding the turbocharged engines, especially the newer ones with the Direct Fuel Injection (TSI/FSI) as the carbon buildup can be detrimental to the life of the engine if it’s not properly serviced early on. I’d look into the 3.0 liter V6 or any of the VR6 models.

 

Yesterday, on my way into work, I had some jackwagon in a VW change lanes (with no warning) as I was in a sweeping right hand ramp, running about 70 mph. I had to yank the steering wheel hard to the right. Damn near stood the truck on the left front corner. Would have given good money to have had the sway bar ON at that time. Body roll was nearly all it could handle, front tires broke loose, and my morning almost ended up being a bad one. Any less wheel, and I would have ran over the "people's car". Any more and the Tacoma would have barrel rolled. Had the tires held traction and not pushed the front end......rollover city.

All this with a UPS semi pulling doubles right on my back bumper.

The 2% of the time we're off road doesn't always stack up against the 98% of the time we're surrounded by non-driving morons on the highway.

I can see both sides of this coin....

 

Also, I know I'm new around here and I may be alittle ways out of the way for some but I can offer up a garage/shop space plus tools and what help I can be if needed

 

Not exactly a reasonable/sensible/viable option with a semi bearing down on my back bumper. My bumper would have served the purpose, but I would have been flattened by the R Series Mack UPS truck. Had to drive out of it, not played Mad Max. High clearance bumper vs rear of Vee-Dub would have launched my truck and we ALL would have ended up in a ball in the ditch.

Just let instincts take over and drive through it....No one goes to the hospital....

#Reallifenotavideogame

 

Hmmm...was really wanting to save some fuel efficiency, but in my (getting) older age, I'm starting to really be concerned more with ride quality and functionality of the tech inside the vehicle.