Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Mine is set +1degree but I don’t know which letter that corresponds to.

How was getting those long bolts out?

 

Mine are set at D, 0°. Not moved them yet and haven't ponied up the money to pay $160 for the only alignment shop that will actually adjust on the UCA. Other shops only think they live and breathe at the LCA bolts so $60 does good enough.

 

Those bolts were actually pretty easy for @beertimecontinuum and myself. Pair of longer flat jaw channel locks were handy for bending the metal out of the way. Just a tedious job since the battery and washer fluid resi had to be removed

 

Step no.1) Drink a beers of your choice.

 

Getting the bolts out was a task to say the least. We did the same thing, using channel locks to bend the metal but the driver’s side bolt has so much corrosion on it that the nut wouldn’t come loose. We tried PB Blaster and a torch and it still wouldn’t budge with an impact gun. We had to use a long breaker bar and push like hell to move it 1/8th of a turn at a time. Finally got it off and had to use a punch to tap it out of the hole. On the passenger side we didn’t have as much corrosion but the fender metal was reinforced up near the power steering reservoir and wouldn’t bend as much. We didn’t remove the battery or the washer fluid reservoir. Neither one was really in the way. Just unhooked a few wiring loom clips and a bracket bolted under the battery.

I’ve got mine set to E right now. And since we maxed the caster on the lowers (as far as they would go being slightly corroded) I’m going to stand next to the tech tomorrow and tell him to adjust camber on the top UCA bolt only and depending on where the caster is right now, make any tweaks down low. I’m just debating whether I need to set it to position D before he starts...

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tions-flatpack-firepit-groupbuy.608183/page-6

Start reading from the top, get your popcorn ready, things are heating up.

 

Well that was quick
The OVtune twin turbo thread was a good popcorn fest for a while too btw

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-annual-tacomaworld-rush-off-road-meat-sweats-2019.610723/

 

Got the 285/70/17 tires mounted yesterday and got the truck aligned. Ended up using the D setting on the SPC UCA ball joint to get 3+ degrees of caster. The lower cams are set at max caster and all the adjustments were made at the UCA. Camber is as close to 0 as we could get it and toe is at about +3/32nd. I bought the one year alignment policy so I may have them tweak it in a few weeks using the lower control arm cams but for now it feels great and tracks straight. There’s a little bit of bump steer over harsh bumps at higher speeds but I guess that’s to be expected with close to 3” of lift and the larger, heavier tires.



As for rubbing, the rear of the front tires doesn’t even come close to the cab mounts on a level surface and even during a hard turn over a curb, no rubbing in the back yet. However, the tires are definitely rubbing the front plastic fender liner on a full turn. I’ve still got the 1.25” spacers I need to install but I’m not sure if the extra ~7mm of negative offset will eliminate the rub on its own. I’m probably going to need to use a heat gun or even trim some plastic but I’d much rather mess with the front than the back so I’m happy.

 

Damn. Never knew there were so many constitutional lawyers hanging out on TW. You'd think they would have better things to do. Maybe not....

 

Please take a few seconds to select an option on the poll in this thread...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/roll-tides-bs-thread-slowly-turning-into-a-build-thread.459567/

 

@mwc273 How did those tires do in the snow this year? Hard pack? Slush?

 

Well, I’m trying to install my 1.25” spacers but I can’t get the 1” spacer off the back left... it seems to be corroded to the hub and as you can probably see, I’ve sprayed it with PB Blaster and beat the hell out of it with a hammer...

I even put all six lugs and the wheel back on the spacer (without it bolted to the hub) and tried to break it free. It won’t budge.

Any advice?

 

Bigger hammer. Or flat head or other prying instruments between spacer and hub. Or start beating the studs in to push spacer out

 

I tried to pound two different flat head screwdrivers behind the spacer and between it and the drum, that got me nowhere. But I could put the factory lug nuts on a few of the studs and start hitting them straight in against the drum and see if that gets it moving.

 

I thought about that too but this garage mechanic doesn’t have a functional torch laying around...

 

I found a small bottle of propane. It’s not getting hot enough...

 

Me: 1
Spacer: 47

I got angry and it paid off. After torching it for a bit I put the wheel back on using two of the lug nuts. Tightened them down then kicked the tire a few times and it finally popped off.

 

Now let’s just hope the other side won’t be as corroded... the fronts have been removed recently (thanks again @EdinCincinnati!) when we did the brake upgrade.

 

And the other side is corroded to the hub too...

*Edited*

Already got it off!