Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

I was just curious. I’m sitting on 885s at the lowest perch and, according to OME, they have the same spring rate as the 887. They’re just a bit shorter. I have the top plate spacers but that’s not going to help with total compression. Larger bump stops are a possibility but for me, adding any more lift is not. I don’t want to mess with the rear right now so I’m good where I’m at up front. I’ll have to take the truck into the woods and see what kind of trimming and/or hammering needs to be done to avoid rubbing. Right now my biggest concern are the tires. I drove it up to Lebanon last night to do some fishing and the tires are definitely not balanced properly... it’s super annoying to have my teeth chattering on the highway.

 

You should look for some of these:




Just a thin piece of plastic you put on the hub, then the spacer. Keeps the aluminum and steel from contacting.

 

Dayton here just picked up a 2015 sat traded off a 2012 f150.

 

@dirty deeds - Lol true. That's an option, I kind of like the look of the factor flares and don't want to cut them in a way that it's visible.

 

Measure wheel center to fender to confirm lift #'s

A little bit of pre-load doesn't really hurt... you actually need some to get effective use of your full range of travel, but more than 1/2" of pre-load on any 500+ lb spring will "ruin" your HS rebound damping.

Also, a little bit of lift from the spring won't fix the issue, just decrease the frequency of occurrence.

I think all the solutions have been identified... to prevent the issue completely, you should either limit uptravel or increase clearance from the fully compressed position to the fender.

After watching your truck walk stuff, IMO adjusting your bump stops a little bit to prevent that last .5" of travel will work very well.

IDK if you have them, but UCA's adjust your camber curve a bit, and can pull the tire in earlier in travel... but $$ and not certain victory.


I gotta say I haven't taken my own advice here.

 

Y’all check this out
Especially you @beertimecontinuum

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/marlin-crawlers-upcoming-hd-lca-frame-brace-kit.610921/

 

Seen those, good idea

 

@Bandido - It's been so long since I was on stock suspension I forget my original numbers. From what I remember my original setup was about +2.25" and now on my new setup I gained an additional. ~.5" on top of that....but oh well. I do have SPC UCAs and could adjust the camber, I hadn't thought of that. After thinking through it I think the best options are to trim, or limit travel. I've been looking for a reason to get some superbumps, so this may be my excuse.

@Caboose117 - Damnit! I wish that was around last year when I did my Total Chaos gussets....I like the Marlin so much more. I guess a part-out is necessary.

 

It says in the post he put up that these will work in addition to your gussets

Hell
Mine are more overkill than the Tc ones and I’ll still likely be doing this one or similar

 

Good point...I missed that. He says:
"If you already have aftermarket 1/4" thick cam tab gussets installed, then simply shave 1/8" off our Uprights and install to your frame like normal."

I think our definition of "Simple" may be a bit different. Yes, the area circled in blue seems pretty simple to get a grinder into. The area circled in red....not so much.

 

Would probably have to use a die grinder on the red circled area.

 

Anyone around the Cincy area done the BHLM and feel froggy enough to do another set for me? I would pay of course.

 

I live in Glencoe and would be more than happy to help you.

 

We need a wrench-a-thon scheduled....

I'd love to do a bunch of shit to the HoRunner.....but I dont have the balls to do it myself....


Plus, I'm going to be ordering the suspension, all new bushings, etc. Would love to add a retrofit headlight item to that list.

(I'm pretty confident in installing the suspension. I simply like having other people there who are familiar so that they can make observations or suggestions that I havent considered.)


When it comes to retrofitting headlights, the only thing really holding me back is installing the projectors. My OCD kicks in which seems to send an automating activation to my anxiety concerning making sure they are straight and aligned properly. Plus, all the electrical stuff is supposed to be plug and play, but I'm telling you now, there will be an issue somewhere along the way. HAHAHA.

 

You could've joined me last week and i would've let you turn all the wrenches you wanted. 2 New Axles, UCA's, Brake Caliper, and now waiting on the tie rods to arrive.

 

Thanks for reminding me that I probably need to do all new front end assemblies as well..................................................................FAK.

 

I’m down for a wrench-a-thon. I’ve still got a handful of small things I’d like to do to my truck, including rear stainless lines (with new hardlines, fuck you corrosion) and an LED light bar install.

As for retrofits, I’ve had headlights apart numerous times in my day but I’ve yet to attempt to install a set of projectors for the exact reason you mentioned. That’s why I just paid to have someone else do it and couldn’t be happier with my headlights right now. But, with that said, I’m about as OCD as it comes, so I’d be happy to assist with lining them up and making sure everything is straight. The wiring really should be plug and play unless it’s a cheap kit. The Morimoto kit I installed with my retrofits was cake. The hardest part for me was hiding all the wires and mounting the ballasts out of sight.

 

Another issue I have is seeing all the JB Weld slathered on the backs of these headlights.


I understand it is a fix, but It just looks bad. I know, its on a part you never see. I get it.


The other issue I have is the fact that the kits and parts are about $300 (give or take $100-$150 depending on additions or quality improvements.) So, for me to pay $800 for someone else to do it....seems extreme. Especially when there is a collective group of fellas who are intelligent and able to help. I'll have to see if I can find some junk yard headlights and maybe piece together a retrofit cheaply. Just for practice.

 

Shit tons of JB Weld > leaks.

 

Oh, I get the point.


Looks like shit though.