Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Got it, angle grinder for the old U Bolts. No sense in making things harder than they need to be.

And awesome, thanks for that part number! I’ll order two of those retainers now so I have them before I install the new shocks.

I will definitely keep that in mind. The only thing I’ve got on my to do list that I’m really worried about right now is the power steering rack replacement. I should be able to handle the suspension stuff, but might want an extra set of hands for that one. I’ll let you know once I get the suspension done and the new wheels mounted.

Haha, yes... stupid winter. And my plan is to use fluid film and to stay on top of washing salt/grime off the frame and such this coming winter. Hopefully, things will hold up if I am diligent. That and the truck is definitely going to Toyota in late Feb/early March for a frame inspection. Won’t hurt to find out if I can qualify for a new frame in the 11th hour.

 

So... before I placed my order for the new retainer washers, I figured I’d take a quick look at the install instructions Elka provided with the suspension. And, ignoring the poor English (pretty sure the dude who wrote these speaks French as a first language), it looks to me like I won’t need those washers:

 

Right, only rubber bushings should be touching the top and bottom of the frame.

Washer - bushing - frame - bushing - washer - nut

 

Actually....that part number I gave you isn't the part we're talking about. I think we're talking about a part that's Bilstein specific. I found photos of that part number on ebay and it doesn't have that top lip. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM...sion-Shock-Retainer-90948-A2005-/312938899372

@iwashmycar - Toyota shows the washer/retainer on top of the bushing (48750d) It appears that the Elka directions specifically call out that it should be removed.

 

The piece I pried out of the driver’s side was on the bottom and definitely had a lip. So I’d have to imagine it was 48750D from the diagram above. The question I have now is, should it have even been there with the 5100s? They had a washer, bushing, bushing, washer, nut combo just like the diagram but for education sake, now I’m curious if the second bottom washer with the lip should have been installed on both sides previously (not that it matters at all to me now).

 

Technically speaking 48750D doesn't have the lip.....although the diagram makes it look like it does. I wonder if the bilstein shafts are thinner than OEM so they supply that washer with the lip to fill the ID/OD gap. Not sure just speculating.

Yes, there should have been one on each side. Did you install them? Before you install the new ones double check that it's not stuck in the other side.

 

I did not install them. A buddy of mine did it for me about four years ago. He was a certified mechanic at the time but typically worked on VW/Audi vehicles.

I don’t think it was there but I guess it’s possible the washer from the passenger side fell off and rolled somewhere in the garage when I cut the nut off the top of the shock. I had already unbolted the bottom shock mount, so the shock just fell to the ground when I pushed the bushing through after I was done.

 

Just don't be too torn should you decide to go offroad and scrape all that nice paint off things. Guess that's my point.
Why paint the rust when the rust will just get taken back to bare metal over rocks lol


...probably why all my painted black shit has surface rust

 

Fair enough. I’ve already done the hitch and rear diff once, so I get it. And it’s not a show truck, I just figured since I was gonna be down there doing work anyway, I’d at least try to tidy things up. I don’t expect it to stay that way for long!

Also, this is far cheaper than buying a new truck.

 

I get why you're doing it. The earlier 2nd gens can get a bit rusty and we live in salt states. I actually need to get mine in for the TSB/alert or whatever it is, to check the frame.
Only hesitant because I figure they'll smack my pee pee for having welded on sliders. Brand new dealer and I only ever bought a brake line from them, so they may not appreciate me making their product most betterest

 

I about fell out of my office chair from laughing so hard!

 

I found a spot at Interlake to do it. Finished up just in time to watch a SXS flip over. They were lucky to get away with only a few broken bones because the roll cage did a terrible job of protecting the two people inside.

 

Had an awesome day at interlake. I didn’t find the guys that I was supposed to meet until the end, but had hooked up with some Jeepers that weren’t afraid to try anything. All the busted knuckles was worth it because my truck performed flawlessly. I did get to use my winch. I lifted at the top of a gnarly hill because I couldn’t see where the kids were and high centered. I had enough momentum but got skeered because all I could see was sky and the top of pine trees. Other than thinking I was going to see dead people in a flipped over Can-Am it was a very good day.

 

Anyone know of a shop to swap out my brothers 3.slow for a newer 3.4L 5VZ?
He has a 94 truck with 5 speed, sounds like the typical head gasket issue with the original motor. He is in Columbus but would be willing to get the truck to the right place.

 

I think @beertimecontinuum can swap out an engine pretty quickly

 

Well, let's hope 2022 is a better year...

 

I don't know that the 3vz/5vz swap is super easy, probably would cost 6k+ at a shop.

But you can score a lightly used 5vz for around 1k... then follow @beertimecontinuum 's example

 

Alright, wish me luck. The new U bolts have arrived and I’m gonna attempt to cut the old ones out today. This should be fun...

I’ll extend my offer to anyone wanting to lend a hand or hang out again. I’ll likely be working on the truck the rest of the day and most of tomorrow.

 

Good luck, Nick!