Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Didn't know you could get 4.33? Get at least 4.10, but idk the recs for an auto v6 sizing up tires.

Here's the wheel bearing dude https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner.537080/

 

05Taco4x4

 

Thanks. I’ll order mine today.

 

Yep. Your right on the 433’s.

 

Before my health went to shit, I did my own re-gear. Started off with stock 3.73s (v6/auto) With 33" tires , (Cooper 285/75r16 STT PROs at that time) I got within 2% of what stock gearing/stock rubber offered (rpm @ 60 mph) with no more than 4.10s.

I'm 100% pleased with the outcome. Durable, very "streetable", didn't adversely effect gas mileage and performs well off road.

 

In pretty sure I have a 382 gear ratio. It was fine with the stock 265/70/16 but kinda took a dump with one size bigger. It was really a dog when I had 33 mt’s on it.

 

So.... seriously, FML

I took today off work to try to actually get stuff done on the truck. And I can’t even get the f*cking skid plates off. Three of the four bolts came out, no problem. Fourth one started to come loose and then gave a loud pop. Now it just spins freely...

And it’s one of the front bolts that goes through the TRD skid plate, through a bracket, a spacer and then through the factory skid plate into the brace on the subframe. I’m guessing, because I can’t see it, that the weld but on the bracket broke off and now the whole bolt and nut assembly are just spinning.

I have no idea how I’m going to get these skid plates off now...

 

This happened to me, too.
But was on the OEM front splash guard, because they really aren't "skids". One of the 2 rear bolts, the nut broke free of the welds. Some heat, lots of pen lube, and holding my tongue right, I was able to get a wrench to hold the nut enough to get the bolt out. It was frustrating as hell, but I got it done.

Don't give up! Look at the holes in the frame and sub frame, you'll find a way in. Or not. Then just

Needless to say, my actual skid only has 4/6 bolts holding it on. Mated to the mid skid, it doesn't move much.

 

Yeah, I just stuck my head up there and confirmed. The weld nut broke free... the entire bolt and nut assembly just spins when I turn it. No idea how I’m going to get it out. Can’t really get the sawzall in that far with the skids still on and can’t cut the head off without damaging the powder coated aluminum...

 

Can you make a tool to hold the nut?

 

One way may be (if you can hold the bolt still) is to drill into the center of the head progressively larger until the head just falls off. Shouldnt touch the skid at all.

 

Thank god I have long ass arms... I got it off. Reached up in there and clamped a small pair of vice grips to the broken free nut. Hit the bolt with my impact and it spun it right out.





The bolt is undamaged but all four need to be cleaned up and hit with anti seize before they go back in. Now I’ll just need to figure out how to mount a new nut for that front left bolt...

 

You could leave it out, unless you have a welder and can tack it back on there.

 

This. Leave it out.

 

Meh, I like the look of the TRD “skid plate”

 

He meant the bolt.

 

Oh yeah, I can make that work for sure.

 

Fluid Film the truck and that wont happen again.....

 

Leave the bolt out, I mean.

 

So this should spark some fun discussion...

Anyone have suggestions for what I should do with this?



I took it out to make the suspension swap easier and give me a little more room to work with the power steering rack. One of the end links was also seized to the spindle so I had to cut it out anyway...

And, in reality, I’m probably going to install new end links (I already have Moog replacements) and put it back in the truck after I’m done with the power steering rack. But I know it’s a heavily debated topic on TW...