Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Both my spacers and wheels are temporary. I don't want to run spacers, i'd rather have the correct fitting wheel.
What i keep going back and forth on are tires. Do i keep the same size tires now or go with a more proper fitting tire?

This is my first venture into aftermarket parts like this, so i'm a in a little over my head lol.

Ultimately, i don't want any rubbing at full tilt or at full stuff. If that means little tires, then maybe i suck it up and do the CMC to keep the 285's. I'm just not sure what my options are.

Most shops wouldn't do my UCA's either, but this one said they would

 

Sounds like cut or small tires, no matter the spacer/wheel. But wait and see what the alignment gets you

 

If you want to run anything bigger than 33's, the absolute best way to do it is to buy some old military 35's and mount them up.


Then, find a bumpy area that will flex your suspension and drive as FAST AS YOU FUCKING CAN OVER IT.


The hard, dry rotted rubber of the old military tires will "self clearance" any metal or parts out of the way. Thus allowing you to stuff new 35's in without needing to cut anything.


Good luck!

 

You should be able to align the truck with enough positive caster to avoid a CMC unless you plan on a lot of off roading and will be stuffing the front tires often.

I had SPC uppers and 285/70/17 tires on stock wheels with 1.25” spacers mounted on my truck for almost a year, never had an issue rubbing the cab mount. Set the lower cams at max caster, the uppers at setting D and every time I got an alignment done I was +2.5 to +3.5 degrees of caster. Only thing I had to trim was the plastic in the front wheel well and the lower corners of the front bumper. Once I did that, I had zero rubbing on the street. Never took it anywhere off road outside of a couple of dirt/gravel roads.

I have since ditched the spacers and stock wheels and will be mounting my current tires to new 17x8.5 -10mm offset wheels whenever my truck is put back together... I’ll have pushed the wheels out just a bit further on this setup so I plan on making sure I run at least +3.5° of caster after I get it aligned. I don’t take the truck off road much and don’t plan on doing a CMC until I have a second vehicle and the truck becomes more of a weekend warrior.

EDIT: Also, if you’re lifted, you’ll want more positive caster anyway, to make the steering feel better. I’ve been lifted 2.5 to 3 inches for over three years and as soon as I put the SPC uppers on the steering felt so much better. Some guys even claim +4° or more caster makes it feel even better but given I’m in the process of (very slowly) swapping my suspension and replacing my power steering rack, I’m going to stick to close to 3.5° of caster.

 

I think this is the info I've been looking for - thank you!

I plan to eventually get new wheels and tires... the 285/75/15 i'm on now measures ~31" and like i said, stock wheels w/ 1-1/4" spacers.

We frequently offroad and run the truck pretty hard. I'll take it easy in the meantime. I'm looking for the largest tire i can fit, while retaining the most amount of flex and least amount of rubbing with the least amount of trim work. Am i asking for too much?! hahaha

I'm interested to see what the shop can do tomorrow for a temp solution before tires/wheels happens

 

I’d recommend the uppers at setting D or even E and targeting as close to 3° of positive caster as you can. Keep camber at 0° and toe between 0 and 1/32nds. That should give you clearance at the cab mount but will definitely require trimming up front.

 

Nice, good recommendation and thanks for the numbers.
If i move past oem spec and go to 3deg caster, should i be worried of any mechanical issues offroading?

 

I believe D is 0 stock but +2 SPC, or something like that on the instruction/install sheet. I do know the directions say to start at position D and work forward or backward from that point.

 

How would an alignment cause major mechanical issues off road? A poor alignment can accelerate ball joint, tie rod end, and potentially, wheel bearing wear. Of course, improper tire wear, too.
But it won't hurt your CVs, front diff, or anything like that. Long term poor alignment could possibly cause steering rack issues, not sure.

 

All the modification to your truck dictates that you move beyond OEM spec alignment numbers.

 

Good info guys - thanks!

 

Uh oh...

#busted

 

I read the rules

Can I get a cookie?

 

Anybody know of a cheap sealed beam projector light?

similar to Hella 60mm highbeam...

Or just get cheap af ebay units and make a supper simple housing.

I'm thinking to do a DIY HID projector offload light to mount on roof rack, not that I'll ever need it, but it would be neat.

 

Is there a easier existing solution such as a led lightbar or are you just looking for a DIY project?

 

Of course theres easy, low quality solutions tyhat won't do wha tI want well...

but there's also what I want...

....and then there's what I want to pay

 

I'm happy with my Nilight lights. However, the paint or PC that's on my ditch lights has chipped away. I'm not butthurt about it though, they were like $30 for 4 lights...and they still make useable light, in ditches.

 

I have knock-off ARB intensity lights, which do a great job and throw a lot of light a long way in true spot pattern, but they are bumper mounted and therefore have a limited illumination area when illuminating the roadway meaningfully. (very similar to a headlight)

I'm looking to install something up on the roof that also throws light a looong way to improve the amount and angle of the illuminated road surface, from what I've seen most LED light bars don't throw light very far, but I am considering that.