Clicking Sound When Steering

The service appointment I made to address the clicking/popping sound was completed yesterday at my Toyota dealership. The issue was resolved free of charge. The technician said the root cause was that the skid plate bolts had been overtorqued by the factory. He said the bolts were torqued to 41lbs, and the correct torque specifications were supposed to be 21lbs. Comment on my service note file say "Found skid plate bolts over torqued which caused the skid plate to flex and pop". We talked a bit more and he assured me there were no other issues (I had mentioned about possible lower control arm bolts being loose). We tested for the clicking/popping sound afterwards and it has been corrected. I only drove it home afterwards and this morning but it seems fixed!

 

Interested to know if the sound stays gone. Thank you for reporting back!

 

You're welcome, im glad to contribute to this forum. I'll definitely report back if the sounds reappear. The problem has definitely been resolved for now.

 

Need some help. I went under the truck to check how tight the bolts are on the skid plate since everyone is saying that is what’s making the clicking sound (and I felt is as well) and one of the bolts was loose - it wouldn’t tighten and it wouldn’t come out - seems like the bolt was either dethreaded or the frame thread is messed up. Clearly I’m taking it back to the dealer. I hope the frame is not messed up now. Any thoughts ?

 

No further attempts. Direct to dealer. This is about warranty claim. Let them deal with a cross threaded bolt and/or rethreading. Good luck!

 

Appreciate it. I’m not fucking with it. How would they re-thread it?

 

If the thread is screwed up.

 

it is so fucking annoying / the first tech who worked on the truck mentioned a bolt that wouldn’t come out and I never thought about it. Instead of fixing it they just passed it along. And they are likely the people who over torqued it to begin with. Nobody ever does anything right anymore. So basic!

 

Sure would be nice if his comment is in writing on a service work ticket.

 

I was in the maintenance field, but on more expensive stuff. This does not surprise me. We wanted people like that in the break room all during the shift. So we didn't have to fix what they broke.

 

of course not - but it’s their problem nonetheless

 

So awful

 

Appointment for Wednesday.

In other news - the clicking is gone. Just adjusting the torque seems to fix it.

Every technician thinks tighter / more is better. 40PSI, 500 pounds of torque. An extra half quart of oil. Fucking infuriating.

 

Indeed.

 

Got under mine today with a torque wrench.

Some were MONGO tight. Some loose.

All are at 21 ft lbs now so we’ll see if the noises cease.

 

Its not rocket science....
You can easily one way or another apply downward pressure on the ski plate using a prybar while backing out the mauled bolt...
The downward pressure will get the bolt passed the bad threads on the bolt & you will be able to remove it.
Dont this many times...
Im not telling you TR to do this, its on them...
You just need to clearly state, you never once removed the skid plate & hasn't been worked on by anyone else.
You guys make it more drama than it needs to be.

You adjust / retorquing a stripped-out bolt did nothing, needs to be resolved....
Would imagine its mostly the bolt thats damaged, & just need to chase the threads at the mounting point.
I have no idea if the mounting point has replaceable insert like a "speed nut" or if its permanent threads in the crossmember.

 

I’ll let you know. Taking to the dealer. I’d love to know if it’s a speed nut or permanent threads if anyone knows.

 

I truly dont know but there doesnt need to be a ton of torque to keep a skid plate secure...
My guess is the bolt threads are trashed & its unlikely the threads in the frame are garbage & deemed un usable.
New bolt, clean the threads, or just lube the replacement bolt with some grease or antisieze as a lubricant & send it home...

I know its not your job to tell them how to do their job...
Just like every professional industry theres knowledgeable experienced employees "techs"
Then theres idiots that dont have a clue....

I havent remove my felt panel so no idea if its a speed nut & theres an adjacent hole to slide them in & out if they fail, or if its a welded nut inserted into the crossmember.
Regardless theres techniques to deal with destroyed permanent threaded bosses too, but more of a body shop deal...
Regardless if handled correctly, you or some aftermarket facility never had it off, they need to correctly fix it. No questions!

 

Heres best case scenario for an experienced tech...
You mention the bolt was loose, if there able to back it out some to get one of those metal dual prong upholstery tool behind the head of the bolt & not have to pry behind the skid plate, would be great...
But I cant think for these people,
They can be in-experienced & scratching their heads having no clue what they should do to remedy it.

Just applying outward pressure get the bolt to catch again regardless how f'd up the threads are.
Has worked many times for me & the guys ive taught over the years.

 

No aftermarket anything - only people who’ve touched that plate is the service dept / dealership. Def a “no questions” fucking fix it situation - but I’m worried they will try to implement a shortcut solution. It’s an important bolt as it’s one of the 2 guide bolts. It’s a pain to put the plate on and off without it and I’ll be changing my own oil once I use all the toyota free changes. Amazes me that I need to change my own oil to prevent damage to the vehicle.

also, I agree it may just be a stripped bolt - but I was not following your comment on lubing the replacement bolt