clip's "should've left it stock" build

@golferdawg17 I remembered a thread I saw recently and got a pic during the winch install to document this. I had no issues getting two screws in while the bumper cover was installed during the fog light mounting. Took a little patience but they're secure like stock.

 

Relentless Stingray and Warn M8000-S finally on (thanks @docjake for hauling it here). Fit and finish of the Stingray is perfect and blends in great with the existing bumper cover. I was on the fence about finding a Stingray for a while but @RelentlessFab has made a fantastic option for winch mounting. Everything is run through a Blue Sea 6006 switch and wiring from Lambtek Innovations/@Gilmorec61 which made the install painless. Hardest part was figuring out how I wanted to route the wires.

Noticed a little front-end sag from the additional weight (~130 lb) and went from 23 1/4 to 22 1/4 center hub to wheel well, so the Bilstein HD coils are going in soon to take care of that.

Also got a Factor 55 Flat Splicer installed, but was let down when it wouldn't fit a Crosby 3/4 2140 shackle (bolt type) across the pin. Had to rig using the bow instead. Need to double-check the measurements between the shackle ends to confirm they're 1 1/4" and check a few of the 209 screw pin shackles, but I'll be really sad if they can't fit.

While it was in the shop, got a chance to do the routine oil change and SPC UCA greasing as well.

 

Bilstein HD coils swapped in and sitting back at pre-winch height with a super-smooth ride. Spidertrax and Geolandars reinstalled as well and ready for another alignment.

 

That’s perplexing to say the least…I wonder if somehow my fog light housings aren’t stock? Those holes just didn’t line up when I tried it, and I found some other post that indicated the 2012-2015 Tacomas only would allow for 1 screw for the SS3 Max’s. Thank you, though. Your pic speaks for itself!

 

About how far off was the second hole when you tried? I think from feel mine might have been off by 1/4-1/3 the diameter of the screw hole - slightly off but enough flex/clearance in the bracket to make it work. I'm in agreement with you - if I couldn't have them secured like stock I wouldn't have kept them.

 

If I had to guess, it was more like 1/2 - 2/3 the diameter of the screw hole, enough to where I felt like it would’ve required some forcing to make it fit. Here’s the post I found at the time I was installing that convinced me to return the lights.

 

Finally got the alignment dialed in, ended up at position E on the SPC ball joints and 2.8 degrees caster. Also replaced the sheet metal underneath with a knockoff TRD skid plate. Time for some trails.

 

Wavian front load holders finally showed up so I finished spraying the surplus jerry cans. Need to order some hardware from McMaster and they'll get mounted against the front track.

 

Hardware showed up and one holder mounted:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-mount-wavian-jerry-can-holder.766598/

 

Lots of changes to catch up on. Installed a SnailArmor tailgate panel and Rockblock strip and didn't realize how much I'd like it. It's so much nicer to work and sit on now and doesn't hurt to climb up into the bed. Wish I'd done this sooner.



Also picked up an ARE shell (thanks @gmartin284) and started cleaning it up. Gave the inside a good wash and a coat of paint and will be replacing the seals before it gets mounted again. Thanks to this, the lift from the AllPro standard springs is next to gone and I'm sitting on the bump stops with a light load in the bed. Icon RXT springs are the next to go on to fix this issue.





After a good polishing, got the Yokohamas swapped over to the Eagle 102s. Fingers crossed I can fit a -20 offset with little to no rubbing.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/throwback-eagle-alloy-102s-raceline-rockcrusher-887s.767732/

 

Getting closer. Resealed the shell with the ESI double bulb EPDM seal and going to add the front rail seal tomorrow prior to install. That'll clear the garage out to start swapping in the Icon RXT springs. Just have to figure out if I'll set them at Option 2 or 3. Leaning towards 3 even though the majority of the time I'll be carrying 300-350 lbs (shell, Hi-Lift, 33" spare, sliders).

 

Shell installed, back to sitting on the bump stops. Also got the Eagles bolted up and getting some rub when turning and slightly compressed. Could be adjusted with a little more caster but the bigger issue is only .050" or so clearance to the calipers. It's impressive how close they come.

Also got the RXTs installed in option 3 configuration to get my bump travel back with the shell. Happy with how these are riding right now. Shots before, during and after show the additional space between the frame and the bump stop.






Since I had some rubbing and very little caliper clearance, I sent the Eagles and Yokohamas to go live on a LC Prado where the stock offset is -20. Compromised and went with a 235/80 KO2 to replace the LTXs. Also got a fifth 17x7 SEMA wheel for a five-tire rotation. No more need for the Spidertrax now, great feeling.

 

Man that looks soo good, really good work! Love the truck.

 

Got started on a small list of mods that I've wanted to do for a while. First up is camper shell lighting. I decided to use a COB LED strip for even output with no hot spots, and went with a 3000K high CRI strip (seems to represent the colors in the second pic accurately). Ran two 14ga power leads to the back and included an extra 10ga in the sheath for an auxiliary power panel at a later time. One lead will carry 12V from the SwitchPro, and the other will be hooked up to the Blue Sea distribution block and be switched locally. So they don't fight about it, both will run into the Roadmaster diode I stuck on the side of the storage box.

Wire has been secured to the existing harnesses front to back and the switch installed, but I ran into a snag trying to read how many amps the LEDs were pulling, so I decided to call it a night.

 

Done. Two long days of wiring but it works with the local switch and the SwitchPro (including the SwitchPro dimming). All wiring run in sheathing including grounds to the frame and the light connector. Brought it out at the rearmost push connector and ran it up along the window frame of the shell. Deutsch connectors allow me to remove the shell, or run a different light temporarily if I want to.

 

In prep for the trip to Potts Mountain, I cut the exhaust and added a case on the roof rack to carry the recovery gear. A few days after, I finished the exhaust mod. Added a V-band clamp so I could keep the stock configuration for most of the time but disconnect when I wanted to go have fun. It's seriously overthinking it but eh.