*CLOSED* - DO NOT REPLY TO THIS THREAD: OFF-GRID ENGINEERING Dual Battery Trays & Wiring Kits

DAWM that is clean AF!

 

This thread makes me sad I have the ABS module on the passenger side.

 

Don't be. Im working on just as nice of a setup for the driver's side. It won't be much longer!

 

Yeah it was pretty spend, that's why I'm looking for a sick tray to keep it secure. The OEM hold down doesn't sit just right on it and it already came loose once and started bouncing around. The Dimensions are:

Length – 10.24 in
Height – 7.2 in
Width – 6.75 in

Yes I might be interested in your additional battery setup as I am looking to add more accessories. Currently this battery outperforms other's dual battery setups and I never get any voltage drop. Once i add more lights and stuff that could change though. Thanks for your help.

 

I just finished helping a friend with a dual battery set up. His Tacoma is a 2007 and the battery was placed in front of the ABS unit on the passanger side. We did need to do a custom cool air intake for it to fit, but it works well.

Ideally we could do a side by side battery setup in the OEM location. Since I don't believe it is really a simple option the passanger side works well.

 

Can you do 1/0 gauge as well. Thinking of a longer run to the bed. Not sure 2 ga will cut it.

 

Looking forward to the release of the 2nd Gen dual tray! 1st PC1400 ordered and on the way (thank you for your advice).
Just for info, I have the Switch Pro SP8100 and a 31" Cali Raised LED bar installed. In final from (sometime in the next century) there should be winch, ARB twin compressor, rock lights, area/camp lights, rear lights, water tank pump, and outlets mounted in RTT for usb charging etc..
Going to have to pack on the overtime!

 

The answer is yes! That battery is about the size of a Group 34 Odyssey. It will be a tight fit in my passenger side tray but it should work. If you are only interested in mounting it in the stock location, then my drivers side tray will work for you. Either way, I have a solution. PM if you're interested in either one.

 

I agree. In the 2nd Gen Tacoma, there are really only two options for super clean, easy install. One of them is my passenger side tray because it doesn't require modifying anything. If your Tacoma has the ABS block in that location, the only other choice is the dual drivers side.... I promise its coming soon!

 

Oh yeah... with all that, you're going to want that second battery... and some OT!

 

Absolutely. For a slight up-charge, we can do 1/0 gauge. PM me if you're interested in a custom kit. I would be stoked to help.

 

Good news folks.... The 2nd Gen Tacoma Passenger Side Tray is now the 2nd AND 3rd Gen Tacoma Tray!

This tray was test fit in a 2016 TRD Off-Road. If you have space available behind the factory air box in your 3rd Gen... then this tray (and full wiring kit) will work for you. The 3rd Gen is a slightly different 3 bolt pattern and utilizes 4 of the 5 mounting locations. The leg sits nicely in a flat spot and will work perfectly. A very sturdy mount.

If you have expressed interest in a tray for your 3rd Gen... please PM me

 

Very interested. I also am not electrically inclined, so you mentioned if I already have a group 31, I would just switch my starter battery to the secondary area and put the 31 where the stock went?

 

Cant say enough about this tray and system. Very clean and it takes only a few mins to set up the passenger side tray few bolts and thats it. Currently waiting on my batteries so i can finish the set up. I am already looking at stuff i dont need but want! Lol will make it easy once i add stuff.

I went with the optional diverside tray makes mounting the ML-ACR relay mount simple and clean without drilling into the fuse box or somthing else. Matt has put some time into this kit. I might be in trouble being local and so close.

 

That's definitely an option. That's how I'm currently running my truck.

Relocating your starting battery only requires that you extend your starter cable and alternator cable. I could provide these cables, pre-terminated and ready to go for you. Starter cable would be 2 awg and alternator would be 4 awg. It would be up to you to either crimp or solder these cables. Cheap handheld crimpers are available online. I could also walk you through the process via phone call.

Your other option would be to sell your Group 31 and run two Group 35's.

Feel free to give me a call if you want to talk about any of your options.

 

Thanks Coop!

 

After rewiring a few vehicles I got volunteered to help out on a few more builds. Guess it was the electrical engineering background, either way.

You can relocate a battery on a vehicle, however the further the distance from the starter the larger voltage drop. This can become a problem with age.

Crimping works as a connection method but again you will see a larger voltage drop over soldered connection. Adding to it is added corrosion in a crimped joint over time. If you have the means to solder a connection then this would be the best means of doing it. At 4 and 2 awg a normal soldering iron will have difficulty heating up the joint. I recommend using a small gas torch applying heat quickly.

One possible option would be to run a dual battery set up in the OEM location. A compressor could then be wired in the second battery location....

 

I couldn't agree more. Most of the time, a crimped connection is preferred on a vehicle because of the potential for added wear and tear on a soldered connection. Look at every OEM battery cable connection. They are crimped. However, in this scenario, a soldered connection would be preferred to reduce voltage drop. On my setup, I did both. I filled a butt connector with solder using a torch, then dipped the cables in and crimped. Then reheated a bit to help flow the solder.

Another way to reduce voltage drop is to use high quality, high strand count cable of the appropriate gauge. Always use adhesive lined, marine grade heat shrink to eliminate oxygen (and thus corrosion) in any aftermarket connection. I supply both of these items in my kit; 3M marine grade heat shrink and very high quality cable.

Crux is correct though. It is important to make quality connections when splicing such an important cable.

 

Well I could use the battery tray but I don't need the wiring at the moment for sure

 

If you are interested in making a 1st gen. I live in Niwot and would like to get one for my rig. I could meet you and you can use my 04 for a prototype. Coop68 suggested you to me.