Closed - Internal Stiffeners

I'll set a few aside for ya and send them out with the prototype

 

Interested! You in Bakersfield?

 

Man I know you’re dead set on coming in below the retail price of the originals, but there’s no way I’m letting you skate by offering your time and utilizing your skills/equipment for free!

 

Fresno County my friend.

Add you to the list then?

 

Yep!

I don't expect a single dollar more than the final set price after tomorrow.

With the DXF file posted, anyone can download it and work up their own set. Hell, might come in cheaper than me if they can source steel cheaper, hardware cheaper, etc. so just choosing me to take care of y'all is enough support and all any of us DIY'ers ask for

 

So you wanna install it on my taco? Lol I’m getting too excited for this.

 

Hardware won't get here soon enough!

I'll be using my own personal hardware (those square nuts) just to use on the prototype set I'll be sending @Sand_In_My_Taco

Don't expect he'll get his driver side set until Monday or Tuesday of next week? Then of course he'll use his personal time to try it out.

If you were going to be around in say two weeks I'd say yeah let's go for it! If not no worries, you're on the first batch list since you're one of 10 or so wanting to place a deposit.

 

Fuck just remembered, for HIS set I'll be throwing a coat of paint on said parts after welding. I'd hate for him to have to put them on, take them off, etc during final test fit.

When I sold all those 1st Gen bed stiffeners, I sold them all in raw metal like so.



Fair to say I'll be doing the same for these internal sets so this might actually shorten the list a bit.

 

Nothing a can of CARC spray paint can’t fix. Unless you got another idea?

 

Any good ol' Rustoleum will do.

The trick is letting it cure for an extra day or two more than you'd expect.

Just wanted to add transparency!

I remember one thread some months back about a guy complaining over a paint chip on their sliders. Dude was so furious demanding partial refund and more cause of it...

Kind of wanting to avoid those type!

 

I’d even opt to get it powder coated

 

Clear hose was also in my brain, but most don’t have good UV handling and go opaque. Gas hose was suggested because of the reinforcement and high general resistance traits. If I had 3D access, knowledge, and materials, I’d make a half protector (for the portion I suggested). Two make the whole. Because a one piece would be to difficult to insert, but the halves would work perfectly an that gap, whatever it is, would be insignificant to the overall coverage.

 

Looks great!
Not to add to your workload, but have you thought about making some sort of template for drilling the necessary holes in the bed? That way it would be really, really difficult for someone like myself to screw up the installation.

 

I take it you're referring to the 2" mark right? I think that might give people the most trouble.

Best thing to do would be to lay something flat against that edge facing towards you.

Could use anything like a binder, flat stock, square tube, anything with a flat surface really.

Then place your ruler against that flat surface to read 2" across.

Example.



You're not going to get anything perfect, but the areas where one might need help with is where I used small slots.

Was taking ease of install into consideration.



The discontinued set uses holes that are .40" diameter.

I use .406" throughout except .41" for the L bracket and exterior bracket for a tiny bit of wiggle room.

As someone doing stuff from home without industrial equipment, trust me the need to keep things consistent is a tad bit nerve wrecking

Just doing what I can!

 

Please do! I’d grab the button heads too if still available.

 

Button heads I will be purchasing more of, so those will always be available as an option.

It's the tie downs/rings I only have available for two buyers.

You're added to the list.

 

Also, I know I only have a tie down version of the exterior bracket made.

Hoping today I can get some nuts welded, but the bolts coming in are the one thing I'll really be waiting for before mailing out the prototype.

Since were close to the end here, I will toy with a "bottle opener" solution that opens on the leading edge like posted several pages earlier.

I was doing so last night but couldn't get the aesthetic right (even though I got function).

If you're reading this, please tag me and tell me if you want hex heads throughout, or to swap out four button heads, or if you want just a blank exterior panel, or a tie down.

I will update the notes next to your name on page 1.

 

I'm just hear to watch, no intentions to buy, so take this question from a curious onlooker perspective, not as a valued potential customer: Would it be more advantageous for the only external piece (the one with tie down hole/button head bolts) to rest BELOW the grooved bedside area (don't know what this is called; the grooved area that allows for plywood to be carried/bed platforms/lumber). Would the external piece interfere with say a bed platform or carrying lumber? Its hard to tell without seeing it installed, but it seems to be right in line vertically based on the drilled holes.

 

Two issues I foresee -

1. Moving the placement of the exterior bracket means completely revamping the location of any and all holes for that side.

The exterior bracket is tied to the bracket that receives a 90 degree bend, and if you pull your taillight out, you'll see you can't move at all down towards the ground as is.

I could extend the leg of the side that goes against the mounting surface for the exterior bracket, but that would mean excess material usage. This will raise costs significantly not because of the extra material used, but because it creates a nesting issue.

2. You lose the added leverage offered by a tie down that sits quite a bit higher.

Again, I didn't even know that bolt mod existed. Many people in this very thread might not even know about it but now that it's mentioned, the simplest solution is notching out that bottom corner to provide the needed clearance.

 

@Off Topic Guy

This is what you're basically suggesting right?



The last issue that comes into play is playing the mock up game again. Not in terms of the parts themselves so much as anyone here can do me a favor of pulling their taillight out.

I would ask them to measure down how much room there is going down that remains uninterrupted.

But then there's the whole "how high do I measure up and drill my holes" for said bracket. I could use the existing holes and mounting locations as my reference, but triple checking things is in my nature