Closed - Internal Stiffeners

The hardware thing has been talked about quite a bit so I'll say this.

Once my hardware arrives it will be much easier to tell if the black oxide process was done "hot" or if it was done "cold". Remember, it's a process the metal goes through, not a coating like paint or anything.

When done "hot", the process is far more wear resistant and will not rust as if it were raw steel. The same process is used for a lot of hardware, allen keys, sockets, other tools, and more.

There's a reason why the discontinued set used such hardware, as well as many other companies. It's why I chose to use them.

So for those that will utilize the hardware I provide, if it rusts, shoot me a pic of said hardware on your parts and I'll either refund you the hardware cost or send you replacements.

And if that does happen to a few sold sets, I'd be happy to switch all the hex head hardware to stainless steel opting to choose grade 10.9.

But if I do the switch to all stainless grade 10.9, the cost will need to go up as some of those bolts are over $1/each easily.

 

I'm fine with the price being higher.

Alternatively could I buy a set with no bolt's and get a link to the nut's/bolt's I'd need to buy.

Rather spend a few more $ now for the peace of mind. I don't wanna have to re-do any work down the line.

 

Sorry I should've mentioned Zinc or some other coated bolt, not stainless.

Due to the hardness of stainless, think the grading works differently there.

Someone far smarter than me would answer that, but I'd go with a coated bolt if the need arises to forego black oxide.

Again though, really only one person has stated their bad experience with it. That's not to say it'll occur with all hardware as each manufacturer does the process differently.

 

But to answer your initial question, yeah can do no hardware!

Fastenal or McMaster Carr would be my top two choices.

M10 x 1.50 (coarse) x 30mm

25mm should work as well, I just kept to the same sizing as the discontinued set.

 

Yup, Stainless generally grades as a Grade 5 or lower. It’s not bad for holding stuff on, but it’s going to likely bend. I’m not sure what the black oxide freak out is from… the Taco is loaded with them in various grades. Honestly, I wouldn’t vary anything… if they need it, it’s there. If they don’t it’s spare. For those questioning, go look up “M10 10.9 30mm Zinc” at McMaster-Carr. Don’t worry, they’re priced pack of 1, or pack of 5. You do you.

 

Thanks for that.

Like I said, I chose it cause it's common in many tools and other heavy use items.

Sending that box out today since I'll be gone this weekend.

 

I'll just chip in that I typically have bad luck with Phos and Oil bolts (also black) and I think phos and oil is supposed to be "better" when it comes to rust prevention. Typically I will opt for zinc or yellow zinc coated bolts especially since I am in MI.

The problem I always run into with is that just the process of running the bolt down into the threads already scratches away the coating and thus starts the oxidation process. Hell, even the socket or alan wrench you use to fasten them and tighten it down already scrapes away enough of the coating to start oxidation.

 

If someone can offer an alternative, that isn't astronomical in price I'll place an order on them

Though McMaster Carr wasn't bad so I could go with them.

 

I have a really good hardware place near me and I dont see any non black oxide 10.9 button heads available.

 

Only ones that fit the above description on M-C are “blue dyed zinc plated”

 

There's a yellow plated below it I think.

 

Update - will price without hardware (bolts).

I'll let you guys decide which way you want to go.

 

This could be the way.

 

For sure.

I don't want to accrue more personal expenses before even selling a single set

The black oxide hardware I'll just keep for local fab work.

Just shipped out the prototype

 

What is the use case for internal bed stiffening?

I assume these are wanted for extreme off roading where the entire truck could flex?

Doesn’t seem like they are needed if you use your truck as a typical truck? I drive about 4k per month and always have equipment tied down in bed but have never even had a thought “ I need to stiffen the bed”.

so I assume this is for crazy off-road and bouldering type of stuff not your typical four wheeling in mud and snow and sand.

 

Hey Liam

If you look up bed bowing, it's due to weight being placed on the bed.

Camper shells get clamped down, and other accessories which lead to the bedsides bowing outward.

I don't know the whole physics aspect of it all, but it's the whole static vs dynamic weight and more that comes into play.

Off roading can attribute to shit flexing even more, but no these are not aimed towards those off roading.

Check my old thread out, first page and check the pictures.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/kwik-fab-stiffies.804205/

That's a 1st Gen, 5 lug (4x2) and even with a full metal bed it's an issue.

 

Just because I shipped a package out doesn't mean research stops.



I cut out two different style openers; each oriented in the opposite direction.





Won't be testing them unless I get bottled beer and all the beer I buy is canned so

 

Did this just become a bottled beer suggestion thread?

 

Nope

Big fan of 805 and other good beers, just happen to have bought a big pack of Voodoo Ranger the other day and still need to finish a few beers my friend brought from Nevada.

 

Last thing I need to learn is that some of you drink Miller Lite or Coors Light, which means I'll have to charge you extra