Closed - Internal Stiffeners

Prime, paint, cure…

 

Just sent payment requests to those of you getting strap savers in the first batch.

In an attempt to get ahead of the second batch, those of you listed below (copied from the first page), let us know if you want strap savers. Pictures should be starting to come in soon for installs so you can get a better idea of what you are getting.

@clenkeit Plain bracket
@ticklemytaco
@cybrnookTie down only
@waffleironTie down only
@545Tie down only
@dmac120
*PIF* BluberryBCtaco D F bomb, P Plain bracket
@GunthorNCTie down only
@blackenbluePlain bracket
@CemenTRDgenPlain bracket
@AlakablamoPlain bracket
@offroadtoyboy1 Plain bracket set, 1 F Bomb set

 

Bolts received!

 

Those are 1.25

I use 1.50 on all the parts; seems they sent you the wrong parts?

 

Also in California they cause reproductive harm and cancer. But only in Cali.

 

They did, I have already had them send the correct ones. (correct on invoice, packing error).

 

What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger

 

Correction: That which doesn’t kill you, only postpones the inevitable.

 

Hoping to see some installed, hopefully soon!

Those that were waiting for their package to be sent were mailed off earlier today - you'll get your stiffies along with the 3D insert you ordered thanks to @MagicToolbox

 

I had a setback… I sprayed my second coat with Rustoleum “Professional” primer and it was the wettest coat I’ve had in a long time. Even in full HOT Sun, it was still tacky 3 hours later. Switching tactics…

 

I had the drivers side in, took it out to spray the holes…

 

Sorry. I will get some on the next round.

 

OK @Kwikvette, I got some pictures.

Here's what I did. Traced the "L" bracket on a piece of cardboard with a pencil, cut out the perimeter, and drilled the top holes with my step drill bit. I installed the tie down, and the top internal with the weld nuts. I used a transfer punch to mark the center of the slotted holes, pilot drilled, step drilled to a clearance hole, and deburred. We put the card board on the bolts, put the "L" bracket on, and finger tightened the bolts. Then I used an X-acto blade and cut the large hole as well as the two smaller slotted holes, tracing the Toyota sheet metal.


This pic shows a slight misalignment of the large hole, as well as the one slotted hole for the wire management.

This pic shows the second hole above the large hole, you can see the pencil marks from the tracing operation, as well as the X-acto tracing of the Toyota metal.

This pic shows the slight misalignment of the Hidden stiffy holes without the cardboard in the way.

This pic shows the wire attachment in my recommended revised orientation. IN MY TRUCK it was attached to the wiring harness with electrical tape with the long part facing the front of the truck. I cut it off and will tape it back on facing backwards, as I do not believe that even with PERFECT alignment of the slotted holes, that the push through stud will hold onto 3/16" steel.


This is a picture of the plastic wire management device with a 10 mm socket on a ¼" hex driver for scale.

 

Now you got me curious as to why the large hole is misaligned - it was based off the template used on @Sand_In_My_Taco truck where the large hole and wire opening matched up perfectly.



You can see that this truck didn't even have any wires running through the large hole or anything else in the way; wonder what those options are for?

Unless you think it's the alignment of the internal bracket that is putting the L bracket where it is?

What do you suggest we do in this case? I'd like to leave the L bracket alone as it seems it's more about how it gets aligned versus the holes being in the wrong location.

What if I skip weld nuts on the top of the L bracket and make them to be slots instead (while still providing the necessary nuts)?

This would allow more flexibility during the installation process.

 

I think leaving it as is makes the most sense. There is a possibility that I did not properly clock the "L" bracket when I installed it. I may also be able to open up one or both of the holes to allow enough rotation.

The wire on the drivers side is for the bed cargo lights. Passengers side has a cargo light and the 110 VAC bed outlet.

 

Gotcha.

But does my suggestion make sense?

Not weld the top two nuts, make them into slots, and provide the nuts for install?

This means you have the ability to move them slightly.

Also I'd like to incorporate that top slot above the large hole unless we skip it cause it won't fit in there with the thick steel plate?

 

I just started a new job, haven't had time to install.

I'll try and do it tomorrow night

 

Whups, sorry missed that question...

Hmm.

It should allow the "L" to be clocked more easily. It may make assembly a little easier, in that you can push the bolts through, and hang the bracket. It does mean that you need a wrench on the inside to tighten them.

It would ALSO allow those bolts to support a shelf in the fender for a hidden air compressor mount or 5 liter Scepter jerry can of water...

 

I'll wait for those that have their sets (or will receive their sets soon) to install their stiffeners and see if this is a common trend before attempting to rectify it.

Again I want all bases covered before I make more.