Closed - Internal Stiffeners

Added you to that list yesterday fam, I got you!

 

Also, so people don't have to thumb through this entire thread I am now using the first page as a means of providing updates

I will still post updates here which invites others to discuss things in ways I can improve stuff for everyone, but the important details will always make it to the first post

The instructions to follow will be that of the 4WP set but, with a few modifications which will also go on the first post

 

I'll pitch in money too man.

 

What's funny is, I think only 1 or 2 people in the entire list are 2nd Genners meaning only 3rd Genners caught wind of this

We'll let them in on this after you guys get your sets first

 

Putting the 20 year old bandsaw to work.



Drill press isn't as old, but useful as fuck. I've had this thing since we moved out here and I love it.



Especially nice to have that extra throw to go all the way through.



What's the tubing for?

Well I wanted to make a simple "jig" to mimic the bend mounting portion.

Here you can see the mounting (following 2" from the leading edge) gives us the exact distance measured on the tie down yesterday when we put it against the bed itself.



This is especially important as I can use this to toy with the bottle opener and tie down ideas (on thin steel even) for mock up.

 

And this is how it all goes together on your bed.



Seeing as how the bed itself is 16 gauge thick, it is entirely possible that 11 gauge (1/8") could be an acceptable alternative.

I won't toy with that yet but just throwing it out there as a possibility.

 

Came up with an idea for repeatable results - a backstop for my press brake.

So I cut out a second piece of tubing which I'll use as a backstop to my press. Since I'll have it mounted on a "fixture" table I made over a year and a half ago, may as well utilize the holes in it.

Here's the idea.



And here's the solution, which I'll cut out shortly.



The overhang will get bent to a 90 degree and welded to the face of the rectangular tubing. The slots will allow for adjustment and placement of bolts to secure to the fixture itself.

This is what happens when a fabricator has ADHD

 

Using tools to make other tools.



Clean.



Bent and getting welded; made damn sure the tube was perfectly square to the bracket being welded on.





Perfect.



With the backstop in place, I will be able to provide repeatable bends as I want each and every piece to be as consistent as possible.

 

What a coincidence… I was just back there and under there today… installing bed lights, VLEDs and other crap. It gonna be fun!

 

Yeah we were talking about how easy these will be to install.

I mean heck we spent a lot of time bullshitting, drawing, cutting parts, revising, welding, etc. and spent less than 4 actual hours working (I talk a lot )

But two 10mm bolts to pull the tail light is all the dismantling needed!

Had to run errands so no cutting of the actual parts in 3/16" occurred today. Hoping to do that within the next few days if it ever cools down since I'll be out of town all weekend.

 

Cowabunga Dude !!

 

He's such a cool ass fucking dude!



Just some 4 years ago after retiring!

 

I forget who it was that had asked about hardware, but I replied with using M10 x 1.50 nuts and bolts.

Last night I had an idea to keep the set looking almost like those that were discontinued so I ordered a 10 pack of button head bolts.

If some of you haven't noticed, I have mocked up this set to utilize the two vertical bolts for a HORIZONTAL orientation.

For that reason, a total of ten M10 x 1.50 nuts will be used, as well as eight M10 x 1.50 nuts and two M10 x 1.50 button head bolts - meaning a total of 10 nuts and bolts versus the 14 used on the discontinued set.

If enough people are for it, we can proceed in keeping the button head bolts for exterior use or stick with standard hex head bolts for two bucks less per set.

 

I think that was probably me. I was excited to see you're using metric hardware

I'd also GLADLY pay the $2 extra for the button head bolts vs hex. Drop in the bucket on the total price and the finished look is 10x better and more professional looking.

If you haven't already, you can add me to the list.

 

Something looks wrong about this mock up. It may be a trick of photography, but it looks like the bracket with the large circle is where the tailgate would be. I realize this is a mock up, just want to be sure.

 

Bracket with the large circle is installed from underneath the vehicle, behind the rear tire.



The mock up shown in the above picture just shows how the pieces "go together" as they sandwich the 16 gauge thick bed.

 

Not a professional, but try to shoot for professional results!

It's the littlest things too such as adding a radius to any bracket or square object I cut.

Sharp corners look unprofessional and "incomplete".

Example on a buddy's "bump stop" pad for his hydro bumps.

 

Looking good on R&D.

Where do I Pay?

and I personally dislike Alan key bolts. They always strip and I have to drill them out. But that’s me.

 

No payment until project is finalized!

But hey, I can do hex head as well. Just gauging if there will be more button head than hex head.

 

Can you show how the bracket position in the mock up works with this method of measuring the 2" from leading edge hole?