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So i had my alignment done How can I get more caster ? this is the best the alignment shop could do ? The pic on top was my alignment two years ago , Pic on bottom is my new alignment SPEC . All Good ???????? Or ????? Truck rolls down highway straight !

 

More caster? you're already out of spec on the high side, looks pretty good to me? How many spacers did you use on the lower control arm?

 

Sweetness. Thanks for the update.

 

Ask the alignment guy for more

 

I have all 3 pucks ( 1" ) in all my LCA ???

 

Im in the same boat as you. All three spacers in to push the LCA all the way forward. I've got about 3.4 of caster on both sides. Truck rides great but I'm in the cab mount and firewall more than I was before.

 

Ha, I guess that was a trick question! I guess how many did you use to space the arm forwards? It sounds like you moved the arm the full 1" forward?

That's interesting to hear. Weird that you're making more contact once the arms are move forwards an 1". What UCA or long travel kit do you run?

I'm in the middle of a bunch of setup on the front. I'm installing my DK long travel kit along with the LCA frames. What I'm finding is that the DK already moves the lower kingpin pivot forwards a bit while also moving the upper kingpin pivot back, so when I installed all the spacers behind the LCA to move the kit max forward position my travel numbers were being reduced. Basically I was hitting max angle on the upper uniball prematurely. Once I changed around the spacers to only 1 behind the LCA, my travel figures returned to be closer to stated by DK. DK also recommended against moving the LCA's forward with their kit because they feel like in addition to potentially reducing travel, they feel like the kit has the bump steer optimized. All in all, I still have a bit of playing to do. I want to experiment with the heims on the UCA's next just to see if I can net out a little more travel without playing around with the alignment too much.

 

That doesn’t make any sense, how is the wheel closer to the body mount if you pushed the wheel forward 1”?

What upper arm do you have?

 

all I can figure is I had 5 degrees or more of caster before and going down to 3 even though the wheel is moved forward changed things. I did lower the front suspension a little so the tire stuffs a little higher so it is partially that.

I have the dirt designs long travel kit. I did modify the upper arms to have heims though so I have a bunch of options to do more adjustments.

 

It sounds like you made a bunch of different changes at the same time you installed the LCA kit that have impacted tire clearance. Assuming you had left everything else as it was before the LCA kit you would have gained tire clearance and added caster... it’s impossible for anything else to happen when you push the lower arm forward

 

I don’t have alignment specs from pre LCA mounts so it’s hard to say how much the caster changed.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m glad I have the kit and am not complaining about it. My old mounts were bent, cracked, and the factory cam system was garbage. This system offers much better strength and infinite adjustment.

that being said, with a plus 3.5 long travel kit, the LCA moved a full inch forward with all 3 spacers and 3.4 degrees of castor I still am in the firewall and chopped cab mount with 34” tires. This is just a data point for others.

 

The truck also drives better and feels more solid on the highway than it ever has before. This is most certainly due to the firmness of the new reinforced mounts.

 

Glad you are liking it!

 

I really need to get mine installed. I’m lagging it.

 

I have a few questions about the LCA kit before I order it.
1. What bolts are used to locate the LCA kit?
2. Since on the 3rd gen the oil filter hosing is vulnerable do you have an option to place a skid there or pics of how you made one?
3. If the steel skid plate is chosen is the thickness 3/16” and would the setup be strong enough for rock crawling?
4. Does this LCA kit work with upper control arms like JBA or would I need to purchase the ones you build to do the kit correctly?

 

there are two 8mm rear locating bolts and two bolts that hold the stock front skid plate on (can’t remember the size)

I just made a connecting skid to protect the oil filter (see pic below)

3/16” steel is overkill in my opinion

yes it will work with jba but for the full advantage of the kit you will want to use our stock upper arm geometry.

if you have any other questions take a look at the website, there is a really detailed description and pics.

 

Thanks, I’ve read the full description twice and have seen all the pics on the website. Just wanted to know the thickness of the steel and the pics don’t actually show what front holes are used to locate the skid. If they are the 2 -12mm holes that are in the front crossmember that’s good news. I have managed to bend some pretty beefy skid plates. The 1/4 5052 aluminum skid I first had only lasted a year until I needed to literally scrap the skid metal for $.

 

Yes they are the 12mm

 

This is how I did my fill n plates ? ( Yes I weld without gas , and yes lock nuts will be put on ) Hope to have this project done by next week , Time to move on .